I see 2 posts from 2022.  All else is 2021 or earlier

Why can't regular EZ track attach to all 4 sides of either crossing without needing to trim the plastic ballast?
Is this a bad design?

This all should be under warranty, the engine and controller.  Bachmann is good for a year on most warranties.

Isn't there a mute function?  It might be 8.  I'm not able to check right now.

You tube will have videos of that.  Do it yourself and save some$

Does it have sound?  DCC with sounds or just DCC?  The lights work on DCC no sound, too but that's all.

You don't need much because it's small and light.  Just add a little shelf like Jeff said.  I'd put a small border around it so it won't slide off by accident.

Quote from: 686 Shooter on March 17, 2021, 03:52:05 PM
Hi plint.

I use a Digitrax system as well and am hoping to get away from having to mute each one every time I turn track power on. I don't want to have to isolate any track if possible. All my other loco's can be programmed to remain silent when track power is turned on, until I start them. I'm hoping I can get these loco's to do thus as well.

I have about 3 runaround tracks with on/off switches which I'll use if I want to keep the sound off.  I just put the trains in there and shut them off with the toggles.  It's kinda like staging tracks in a sense where I park the trains I'm not running at that moment.

Can you isolate a siding with its own on/off switch?  Or if it's DCC you can mute the sound with, if I remember, button #8, the mute button on the DCC command center.  What do you use? I use the Digitrax Evolution.   There's a button on there for that.  I don't use it, I isolate a siding.

That sounds much better.

YES!!!

That looks like a lot more work than just using insulated (plastic ) rail joiners.

Where are the isolated pieces?  Are they after each side of the turnout, where the loop begins with 1 and ends at the other?  At the other end of the turnout where the train enters, here is where your "Main" wires should connect to the AR1 "Main" terminals and the "loop" wires connect to the "loop" terminals.  These "loop" wires should come from within the reverse loop, between the 2 isolated track pieces.
I use 2 AR1's and the Digitrax Evolution and code 100 track and Peco turnouts.  Not familiar with EZ track but I'm sure it's the same idea electrically.

What does "unlatched" mean?  No rail joiners?

For 4 corner pieces, use a large elastic over the piece after it's been glued, then add a little more glue after the elastic has been added.  This is always the toughest part to get the piece square.  This always helps.   You must definitely sand the parts flush after removing from the sprue.

You can also use a small eye dropper or turkey baster, dipped and loaded in a cup of the 50-50 water glue mix.