Thanks Mark! I thought Bachmann had that fixed with the new version of the Lt Mtn? Either way, the wobble seemed to get worse, so I've requested an RMA and am sending it back. I really hope they can fix it, as it has the DCC ready tender/harness and I wanted this loco to be my primary for my passenger line as well as my first decoder install. I have faith. 

Thank you!

I just received a brand new Lt Mtn 4-8-2 from TrainWorld. It's the DCC-Ready version, with the wire harness running to the tender so I can install a Digitrax decoder in it. Before I tackle that task, I wanted to run the loco for some break-in time, to make certain everything was ok. Right off the bat, the loco has a wobble, which is more noticeable on the straight-aways. I let it run for about 10 minutes, then noticed it was slipping on a 0% grade. Both traction tires had come off. I was able to get those back on, without disassembling the loco and after an hour or so, they haven't come back off. So, my question is to the wobble - is this something I can fix, or do I need to send it in? Honestly, I can live the wobble if needed, so long as it doesn't get worse - it's just frustrating.  It *looks* as though the #2 drivers are slightly out of true round....in ultra-slow mode, I can see a gap come and go between that set of drivers and the track as the train progresses down the track. All drivers appear to be "in quarter" as best I can see. And I really, really wanted a decent running 4-8-2. I know that if I send it in to Bachmann service, they have the right to replace it with another loco of their choosing. I do have another Lt Mtn 4-8-2 (a first run edition) that runs and pulls very well, but *hates* anything less than 17" radius curves - it'll jump my 11.25" and 12.5" radii in a flash. This newer one hasn't derailed once. I kinda wish I could merge the two locos. LOL

Tips? Advice?

I've been in the same boat as you recently. For the Bachmann rolling stock, I've used the replacement trucks with Dummy Knuckle Couplers for consists that I don't plan on changing up. For some of the Atlas rolling stock, I've bought their Accumate-equipped trucks and those are working well with some EZ-mates and Microtrains couplers that I have. I think I've spent as much in coupler conversion as I have on the rolling stock itself.

Thanks kmcsjr, I did see that and I'm cool with that installation for the 2-8-0s. The 4-8-2 is the reason I want to do the tender mount for the decoder.  It is the first run version and the removal of the weight in the boiler causes traction loss in my loco (did a test-run w/o the weight). Maybe I'll just keep searching for an already DCC equipped 2-8-0 and a DCC-ready 4-8-2 that already have the harness to the tenders. Since the new Berkshire 2-8-4 is now delayed until Spring 2015, my train pocket change just increased.

I have two Bachmann 2-8-0s and a 4-8-2 that I would like to convert to DCC. I like the idea of putting the decoders in the tenders, and the DCC-ready Spectrum tenders are perfect for that. What I'm having trouble with is finding a source for the wire harness that runs from the loco to the tender, which also has the plug to connect to the tender. On the parts page for the 2-10-2, it shows the harness I need attached to a PCB and the motor. Is it possible to just buy the harness with the plug (as I don't need a 2-10-2 motor and PCB)?

Thanks!

Thanks for the info Brokemoto, it's appreciated! Unfortunately, the DC version isn't giving me any grief; it's the DCC-equipped version. On the off chance that the loco had been programmed for DCC only, I took it to a local train store I found, and they put it on their test track - it was DOA for them too. They offered to try and fix it, but I declined and am returning it to the seller and will find another non-DCC version to purchase.
Thanks again!

It's going back to the seller tomorrow. Now to find another non-DCC equipped 2-8-0 like my good one.

I guess there's no way to reset to factory defaults without having a DCC system to reset it?

Is there a way to bypass the DCC board, without breaking off the decoder and hard soldering the connections as indicated in the instructions?  Or will the engine operate without the tender/board at all?  I ask, because I'm not even getting power to the light.

I just received my second Bachmann 2-8-0 "New In Box" (secondhand). It truly looks as though it has never been used - still had the static plastic protective film over the engine itself. In my excitement, I put her on the test track (a simple EZ track 2'x3' oval) and nada...no power, no light, nothing. Ugh. This is the second "NIB" Bachmann 2-8-0 that I have bought and received that has exhibited this issue. The first one (DCC Ready version), I was able to get momentary power, but never able to sustain it. I cleaned all the pickups on it, checked the undercarriage for being too tight, etc., but still had no luck. I sent it in to Bachmann service and they fixed it...stated they gave it a cleaning and conductive lube. (BTW, thanks Bachmann Service - EXCELLENT service & turnaround!)  Well, before I sent it in, I did a cleaning on the wheels, pickups, etc. but to no avail. So, what did Bachmann service do that I didn't do? LOL

So anyway, once serviced, the first one performs so well, I dove in and bought another; this second one is DCC Equipped - and according to the instructions, is backwards compatible with DC layouts (which I currently am running as I only typically run one engine at a time) and I didn't expect to have any issues with this engine. So, my long winded question is this - is there a "secret" to these 2-8-0s? Do you have to whisper sweet nothings to them? Rub them gently and promise wine and chocolates? LOL I've now bought two - one lightly used and the other "NIB", and neither would run initially on my test layout.

I know these are excellent steamers, as the first one I own has proven. So, am I just an idiot, have bad luck, or am I missing something that I'm supposed to do? Any help / advice / tips would be greatly appreciated.

My test set-up:
2'x3' simple EZ Track oval - no turnouts, etc.
PS: MRC Tech II 2500 (I even tried my basic Bachmann power supply that came with a set - nada.)

Other engines that run fine on the test track: Minitrix 4-6-2; Bachmann 2-8-0 (DCC ready); Bachmann Lt Mtn 4-8-2 (DCC ready); Bachmann Prairie 2-6-2; Bachmann Spectrum F7A/B;  2 versions of the Spectrum Dash 8-40 CW (both DCC ready).

Thanks in advance,
Scott

Not to hi-jack the OP's thread...but a few questions to add to it: would a tender from a Spectrum 4-8-2 Light Mountain or 2-8-0 work as well? Or do we just need to buy an all new tender? I ask, because I have a 4-8-2, as well as two 2-8-0s and before I go robbing Peter to pay Paul, I'd like to know if it would work.  And as for moving the traction tire wheelsets, I'm assuming you have to disconnect the linkage? (I'm still new at this...especially modifying the locos.)
Thanks!

I'm relatively new to model trains, having dabbled in it as a teenager 30 years ago. I'm wanting to "disconnect" from modern technology overload (where everything is computer/digital oriented), so I recently purchased a Bachmann ready-to-run set from eBay. It was advertised as HO scale, new & unused. It ended up being N scale, and heavily used (run hard and put away wet). Fortunately, I paid relatively little for it, and N scale is actually a better fit for my available space. The set is the Bachmann White Christmas Express, containing a standard EZ track oval, with base power pack, three cars and an 0-6-0 Steamer. After opening up the box, and setting things up per the instructions...nothing happened. Two hours later of heavy track cleaning (denatured alcohol & lint-free rags) and cleaning the wheels on the steamer (and oiling axles & gears w/ plastic safe oil)...the train runs well. It could run better at slower speeds, but at 50, it runs smooth pulling the three including cars and I am pleased. The 34" x 24" standard oval layout is really small, and I have room for expansion - up to 36" wide x 60"long. I have downloaded AnyRail and I am playing with multiple layouts, designs, etc. (Ok, not so computer disconnected as I had hoped.) I've also been reading these forums, and absorbing as much information as I can, and have come up with a few items that need clarification.

1) Feeder track - I understand that it is recommended every 3 feet of track for larger layouts. Do you power these feeders from the same output as the primary power to the track? Or do you use the accessory outputs? (At the moment, I'm keeping the base controller that came with the set - {46605A}. ) If it is from the primary power cord to the track/rerailer - do you splice in the feeders? or are there junctions available?

2) Turnouts - which is better, the #4 or #6? I'm assuming the #6 is better, as the turn out is more gradual. These are wired to the accessory output to control the switch? And what are "frogs"?

3) I've read to avoid chicanes, and to keep inclines at or less than 4%. Valid?

4) Can the EZ Track be used with the older Bachmann/Atlas/Etc. N gauge track, once I finalize my layout and make it permanent?

5) Since my system will be analogue for now, am I able to run DCC equipped trains on my system? (Factory installed, not with aftermarket chipsets installed.) If not, that isn't an issue at the moment - there are plenty of non-DCC trains out there.

I'm certain more questions will arise later, but this should get me going.

Thanks!