Our son's little big hauler motor gets extremely hot after running for only about ten minutes. I mean REALLY HOT. Then it stops.  Give it a few minutes to cool and you can get another ten minutes. I've taken it out of the chassis, removed the rods, and have it sitting free on a table with clips to the motor leads. Same result. Gears and wheels have been cleaned, greased, oiled. Help. A dad's image is at stake. 

Ok, I know this has probably been asked a thousand times, but I'm in the middle of scratchbuilding a loco. Can anyone tell me what paint is a match or at least comes close to that blue-ish color Bachmann uses on their loco boilers?  Thanks.

First of all a heartfelt thanks to Rkygriz, Joe, Tony, and Greg for your advice!!!  What a great group.  I took the advice and took out all the electronic boards in the Lil Big Hauler, including the one on top the motor.  I connected the leads from the wheels directly to the motor and the engine runs fine.  No stopping, no overheating of the power pack--both the Tech 2 and the old Bachmann unit.  I have run the engine on both power packs each for almost an hour with no problems. You fellows put your fingers on the problem from the start.  So, one final question and then I will leave everyone to go on to other member's issues--should I reconnect either of the electronic boards?  Even though the engine seems to be running fine, is there any long term problem to the motor running directly from the current?  Thank again so much!

Guys, I'm willing to try anything but I need some info before I start cutting.  Inside the loco there is a small board of all sorts of electronic thingies with wires coming from the wheel pickups.  From there the two wires go to the motor. Before going directly to the motor leads, there is another small board on top the motor, the power wires going into this and then to the motor leads themselves. What should I cut? And before I do, I have already run wires directly from the power pack to the actual motor leads. I would think this sidesteps all the electronics (?).  And there is the same result--about ten minutes or so of good running then the power pack overheats and shuts off.  I should mention that at the same time, the motor itself gets very hot.  I'm beginning to wonder if the problem isn't in the motor itself.  Could there be a short somewhere down by the gearbox? I am pretty much forced to fix this on my own--there isn't much likelihood the loco is still under warranty. And before I sign off, my sincere thanks to all of you who have volunteered advice!

Thanks guys for your feedback  will give bachmann a call tomorrow.  In the meantime, as you suggested, I considered possibility of a short.  To eliminate possibility of a problem with the solid state gizmos ( which I freely admit are a mystery to me), I propped the loco on blocks to free the wheels and connected power wires directly to the motor leads.  Same outcome--runs fine and within 10-15 minutes, red overload light on the Tech flashes on and the power cuts off.  Just to eliminate the very unlikely possibility that the problem is the tech2, I dug out an old power pack that came with an old big hauler set years ago.  Same outcome--engine runs fine for 10-15 minutes, the power pack gets really hot and cuts out.  Aaargh! A call to bachmann tomorrow.  In the meantime, any other thoughts would be welcome 

I have a Lil Big Hauler (the one with the tender) for the grandkids which we run on a short oval of track.  For power I use an MRC Tech 2.  The little engine runs fine--for about 10-15 minutes.  By that time when I put my hand on the Tech 2, it is incredibly hot.  Then after a few more minutes, the power supply shuts down until it cools.  However, when I put another engine on the track--in this case a 2-4-2 lynn--no problem.  The Tech 2 runs for as long as we want with no real heat.  So I'm thinking this is something going on with the little hauler.  I've lubed it and checked for any obvious snags.  I've run her on the bachmann stationary rollers--same outcome  I've run her propped up on blocks so the wheels are running free-- the same.  I'm now scratching my head.  Any help or suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks so much. I'll follow your recommendation 

Hello Everyone.  Have just purchased the american version of the large scale 2-4-2 Lyn.  Can I ask for suggestions for a suitable DCC decoder and sound?

Our club is building a series of G Scale modules for a museum depicting our city at the end of the 19th century. We want to have a track running the length of the modules (approximately 20 feet straight--no curves or turnouts) on which a small loco would pull a couple of cars to the end, stop, then reverse direction, etc, etc.  Power will be DC. Our question is, what kind of reversing unit should we purchase?  Any experience, recommendation, advice will be sincerely appreciated. Thanks in advance 

Alas, the 2-8-0 doesn't seem to be in production any longer.  I see the boiler/cab/etc. is available in the parts dept.  Has anyone tried to kitbash a Bachmann HO gauge 2-8-0 under this body?  Is it do-able? 

Need recommendations for O scale figures --- engineer, fireman, civilians, etc    19th century or logging types  Thanks all.

Hello, newbie here again  I have a set of big hauler passenger cars. One suffered an accident. Repairs are done but now I need to do touch-up painting. The cars are D&RG and what I would call a maroon (?) Or reddish brown. Can anyone please recommend paint brand/color for touch-up?  Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

Thanks Kevin. Great info. I'll check it out.

Hello all.  Brand new here  I have three older Bachmann steamer engines. I run only on DC trackpower. Can you suggest a simple drop in sound system?