I have a 3 way switch that the first set of points coming in selects the lower track or continue down to the second set of points.  This is hooked to a tortoise with a dpdt switch.  The led is green when the lower track is selected and red when the rail that leads to the second set of points is selected.  The second set of points is set up the same way with a tortois and a dpdt switch.  Depending on which way the switch is thrown the middle track or the upper track will have a red/green light.  How do i make both lights on the second set of points stay red when the first set of points selects the lower track?  Hope this makes sense.

What type of controler are you using? 

Thats the software that ive been playing around with.  Haven't tried doing elevated rail yet.

Thanks Doneldon.  I still know where that link went so it's good.  The track software seems pretty in depth.  I did find one that I have managed to figure out how use, but I really dont want to plop 60 dollars down for something I will use only once.  I did sit down with some graph paper and draw a layout, which I intended to post here for reiew.  However, everytime I try to post a pic I get the upload folder is full message.  I did resize the photos to get them under the size limit, but to no avail.

I guess I'm going to be on my own with that, or go to another forum and start posting there instead.

Well i tried to post with a pic of the cars sitting on the 24r track that i just bought, but i got a message saying that the upload folder was full.  I dont think that post will show up so here i go again, this time without the pic.

I went to the LHS and bought some 24r track and 3 60ft NS wood chip hopper cars.  I hooked up a few pieces on the kitchen table and put two of the cars on the track,  the couplers mated pretty good when one was rolled up to the other.  While i was there i measured a GP 15 and it was 55ft if i remember correctly.  By using the formula from the post that was deleted, im in the "it will work range, but not ideal".  The maximum size i can put in that room is gonna be 10' 2" wide by 10ft depth, which would leave only enough room to open the doors to the room and the closet.   Maybe i just need to bite the bullet and buy some layout software.

Thanks to all who replied, all very good advise.  Hunt, i cant thank you enought for that link, you da man!  In reality im only wanting to do part of the layout with 18r and there will not be any backing up in this section of the track, however im about to make a trip down to the LHS and scope some cars out to see exactly what size i would like to end up running. 

I found a Athern Genesis GP 15-1 with Tsunami sound for 150 bucks, im thinking this isnt a bad deal from what i have been finding on the internet.  This is NIB by the way. 

Im thinking that the length of cars should kinda match the length of the loco to look good?  I have allso looked at SD-60 and SD-70, i cant remember but im sure that atleast one of these uses 6 axles.

Everything is still in the planning stage so now is the time to make the decisions that keep me on track so i dont waste money.  Thanks for the help and suggestions guy, keep em coming.

Will i end up wanting to bang my head against the wall if i build a layout that uses 18 inch radius curves?  Im trying to keep the size down, but i have read posts that suggest 22 is the minimum you should use.  This is a HO layout.

After rereading this i think he may be using the auto reverse track and not the reverse loop module, let us know.

Thanks for the good advise everyone.  I was pretty sure the ez command would be pretty weak, but not sure.  Now that the differences in the turnouts have been pointed out, i see how a non numbered one would cause problems.  Thank you very much for that piece of advice, as it would have been a costly mistake to buy one that would only cause problems and have to be replaced right away.

The trackset i bought my son is the Overland set ( its buried in the back of the closet with a ton of stuff stacked on top to stop those prying eyes).  This track is the black plastic roadbed track.  I'm thinking that i should not buy any track like this and only use this track with the train that came with it?  Should i just go with nickle silver code 83 with cork road bed for the layout that will be built?  Opinions please.

I have been looking at engines and the ones with sound are real pricey, so i sure want to get one that is of really good quality.  Well you know how it goes, you get what you pay for.  I sure could use some advise on a solid unit to get.  I would prefer one marked as NS, CSX would be my second choice.  I'm looking at spending less than 300 dollars if at all possible.  I would appreciate your opinions on this.  Sound decoders that  change the sound of the engine as you throttle up is what i want to get.

Thanks to both of you for the replies.  I definetly believe in the start out simple philosophy.  My first hurdle is deciding on just what to get.  The Bachmann ez command seems to be a low cost unit to get started, having said that i also dont want to have buyers remorse later on when its time to upgrade.  So the answers to this question will hopefully get me oriented on which direction i should go from here.  Actually more like two questions.

I believe the ez is stated to be 1 amp?  In the real world, is this enough to run a dcc train with sound with maybe a reverse module and automated turnouts?

The modular type plug and play of the reverse loop module and the terminal tracks appeals to me, because it seems that it would be easier to incorrporate these into a track layout that will be changed.  The automated turn out seems to be the way to go at this point also.  So the qestion is, will i still be able to use all of these components with a different DCC system when it comes time to upgrade?

I have been searching the web trying to wrap my head around around all of the things that are involved in model railroading.  I have found that there is a dizzying amount of things that i need to learn before i take the plunge and start buying things without fully understanding how products relate to each other in the entire layout of a track system.  I have found some videos on utube that show how to install automated switches and the wiring that is associated with them, this has proven to be very informative because most of these products when found around the internet don't explain in a way that some who is just getting interested in model rr can understand exactly what they are used for and how they would be hooked up.

I bought my son a Bachmann train set that i plan on giving him for Christmas.  Hopefully this is something that we will enjoy together as we "slowly" acquire all of the equipment needed for a robust layout.

I am thinking that the first thing to do would be to buy a DCC system.  His birthday is January 8, so this would be the first present he would receive as we begin to gather equipment.  Ill just come up with some excuse at a latter date to spend the money on the new engine, LOL

So here goes the questions,
1 What is the difference between DCC and DCS

Be advised that i am not a model railroad expert, but i have been scouring the web to learn as much as possible before i take the plung.  If you have the loop isolated from the rest of the track, then maybe the amp adjustment on the reverse loop module needs to be turned down?  Hope this is somehow helpfull.