Jon,
in regards to the Archer decals, I heard from another avid kitbasher that using O scale rivets not HO works better in HO, I used them on my F-81 project with great success. The HO scale rivet decals will work better with N scale, it really is that noticeable of a difference. I bought  the 5/8" rivets, 7/8" rivets, tank car double row rivets and alternate center rivets combo in O scale

I have plans(in my head) to kitbash a few of these engines to look a bit more like Rocky Mountain power. I was going to swap out the cab/sand dome and trailing truck to make it a modern super mikado with a smoke deflector and number boards along with a resin casted smokebox door along with some brass marker lamps

I can't do it right now but it's something I've had on the drawing board for a few years now.

Was also thinking of maybe doing an SP(ex-B&M) 2-8-4 kitbash considering PSC has castings for the FWH sand dome and trailing truck

Quote from: sedfred on May 21, 2017, 11:57:41 AM
I'm 16 with only a part time job, i can't afford overland! That's why i'm suggesting it to bachmann lol

Hey I'm gonna be the first to tell you work hard and don't give up on your dreams. I too was once 16 and looked behind the glass cases at brass models of engines I never thought I'd own and 10 years later I own my own glass case filled with dozens of them. And not just that some engines I built myself, kitbashing and scratchbuilding using techniques of many people on the web and in magazines have inspired me to use.

Sometimes there are engines that aren't made in HO or at all and it becomes necessary to build your own.

I built a D&RGW F-81 using maybe $200 in parts and a little bit of scratchbuilding and I am so happy with it, plus it saved me a whopping $800 so building your own has it's perks.

Maybe do some google searches on kitbashing steam, I spend hours doing research, it's fun what you find, there's so much out there. I even made my own Facebook page to showcase some of my stuff.

Hope this helps!

I am curious as to why Bachmann hasn't done dual wheel pickup trucks in HO on most of their models. I use the bachmann Auxiliary tender chassis  for brass/proto 2k shells to boost the pickup on some of my engines

I'm going to miss seeing your awesome kitbashes in N, sad to see them being sold online but I've been there myself. BUT I am most looking forward to seeing some of that creativity put to use in HO scale. I model HO and N steam, and many on here may remember me for my various projects as well. I actually have a mikado chassis of yours you sold me. Still haven't worked on it but was planning to do what you did with an H-4 shell  for the boiler

If you're interested and want some ideas, feel free to visit my Facebook page: www.facebook.com/RyeGuyLocomotiveWorks


Now back on topic:

I was thinking of doing what you're doing with a docksider 0-4-0. There's a guy at our club who put RC/Battery power into an Alco 2-6-0 and it runs like any other engine without need for power in the rails. I have to ask him how he did it. I may have to go digging through my emails or ask him myself.

mine does 7.5 inches without issues, guess it depends on the individual model.

I also have video proof on my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/ryeguylocomotiveworks/videos/351537531636672/

yup, that's foam damage

I'm an avid brass collector, from what I've been told is to take a q-tip dipped in lacquer thinner and gently swab away at the foam and if you're careful enough you won't hurt the clear coat too much.

Key Imports/Sunset with the Samhongsa red foam packing was always the killer on decent paint jobs due to deterioration. Most novice sellers on auction sites won't even think to wrap engines in plastic to protect them from inevitable the red stains.

Some update pictures of the M-68:

Quote from: James in FL on March 20, 2016, 11:44:27 AM
400+ pages of Shapeways products and not a single n scale auger.
Going to have to bite the bullet and scratch one.

Oh I see, well I'm guessing you're doing it so you can have that empty coal load look right? I wonder if you could make one from a small screw of sorts.


Here's some progress photos:







I figure i I can cut out the domes and re-use them if necessary, and my theory seems to work!

I have a junk 3D print of a D&SL 2-6-6-0 that I was thinking of using the parts to make a D&SL 2-8-2 Mikado for the D&RGW considering they shared the same domes, tender and cab.

Quote from: propmeup1 on March 19, 2016, 06:23:41 PM
Was trying to find "shapeways" no luck. what em I missing ?

Keith

www.shapeways.com

Why not take a Con-cor Hudson tender and crop it down? It looks very close to an NYC Hudson Tender, and you can use squadron putty to cover up the seams.

It is FUD, and the guy has a shop where he sells some of diesel and steam  conversions for Eastern Roads: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/md%20shops

I have asked him for things directly and he has released his other WM Tender for purchase before, he made a WM 2-8-0 conversion for the Spectrum Connie however at the moment it's not currently listed for sale.

He also has a conversion for PRR Tenders and Cabs, and a CNJ Switching Diesel among other neat things.

I will definitely be keeping posted on the project here, my goal would be to inspire others and hope maybe 3D printing will get more popular in N scale so hopefully more new  models will be produced

When you say Big Apple class, is it a Niagara you're creating or something different?

Hey all, figured I might as well share with you a project I've been working on.

I recently purchased a Western Maryland 4-8-4 3D print from Shapeways and I was planning on recreating a D&RGW M-68 in N scale. Thanks to James in FL for the measurements of the Bachmann AT&SF 4-8-4, I'm now able to bring this idea to life.





The other mess of parts is for an N scale Ditcher





The shell will obviously need modification removing the large sand dome and moving the smaller one to the front part of the boiler and details added and the like. The project seems pretty straightforward. Cannot wait to finish this one!

I'm using Kato Unitrack #4 turnouts and I don't have an NMRA gauge for N scale yet.








In HO scale this same trackage would be 15 1/2" radius and the HO 2-10-2 struggles around 18". My N scale 2-10-2 doesn't struggle at all, although it looks a tad bit ridiculous doing it.

Almost tempted to make a decapod out of one. Mine has a shorter USRA tender on it.