First, thanks to all of you for the quick responses.
Next, as for the constant running of the train; originally the train was set up on a button with a timer that the customers could just push to activate the train. But after rebuilding the track (which we thought would help solve our derailing problems) the train still kept derailing and burning up engines. So the TD thought that maybe all of the constant start-stop action of the train was causing some of our problems so it was just set to run constantly. (again, none of us know hardly anything about these things,, so it sounded good, at least from a mechanical stand-point)
But if you guys say it should actually work better by being on a switch/timer, it is nothing to put it back on one. I will speak to the TD here about it.
Next, the "coal car", I apologize for not knowing what it is properly called. I did some searching and found the actual car we are using (or atleast one that looks very much like it). It is the 40' Quad Hopper (item #17642) http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/catalog/?function=detail&id=569
It is actually hollow under the platic plate that looks like coal. So the TD opened it and filled it about 1/2 to 2/3 full of BBs to add weight, then re-glued it back on to hide them. I remember him telling me why he did it, and the reasoning behind it. But I can not for the life of me right now remember what the reasoning was. I will have to get back to you on this once I get to work and can talk to him.
Now the monofilament idea stems back to the original set up when it was on a switch/timer. Because of the constant jerking of the hundreds of start-stops every day, the monofilament was added to help decrease the severity of the jerk when the train starts. But I have noticed that as the train goes downhill on the inner-loop, the weight of the cars cases them to catch up to, and actually bump into the back of the train. This may be one of the causes for the derailing in the loop. But if it was, wouldn't that happen every time the train went into the loop?? Like I said, sometimes this thing will run for HOURS without a problem.
Mr. Bach-man, thanks for the advice. I didn't even know that you could lube an engine, much less that it needed it daily. This will definitely be something that will be implemented as soon as we can order the lube.
Mr. Banner,
"With all that running, you may be wearing the flanges off the wheels. Buy an NMRA wheel and track gauge at your local hobby shop and check the wheel profile and the distance between the wheels. If the car wheels are worn, new wheel sets (wheels plus axle) would help with metal wheels being preferred. While you are changing wheels, reaming the axle holes with a truck reamer (also from the hobby shop) will help make them roll easier and reduce the load on the locomotive. You can also lubricate the ends of the axles with graphite (Kadee "Greasem" at the hobby shop.)"
I now have a gauge, and the track, along with all wheels, will be checked tonight. All of our cars have metal wheels. But I will get a reamer for them. Again, this is one of those things that I didn't even think you could do, much less have a specialty tool for. But when you think about it, you go, "DUHH!!, I should have thought of that".
Thanks also for the info on using two engines. I will relay this info to the TD, and I feel confident that he will allow me to start using two engines now.
And now that I know, we will also turn down the voltage on the track.
I am not sure what you mean by "truck mounted" and "body mounted" couplers. Again, sorry for being so ignorant about this hobby. But I will try to find some more info on this and see if it is something we can implement.
Mr. SteamGene, Thanks for the advice on adding more power leads to the track. I kind of thought that would help, but wanted to ask about it before taking it to my TD.
We clean the track once a day, or at least once every two days. The wheels are cleaned at the same time the track is cleaned.
I read somewhere that when cleaning the track I should use a clean cloth. Is it ok, or efficient, to clean the tracks and wheels with Q-tips, or should we be using cloth??
Once again, I thank all of you for your advice and timely responses.
Next, as for the constant running of the train; originally the train was set up on a button with a timer that the customers could just push to activate the train. But after rebuilding the track (which we thought would help solve our derailing problems) the train still kept derailing and burning up engines. So the TD thought that maybe all of the constant start-stop action of the train was causing some of our problems so it was just set to run constantly. (again, none of us know hardly anything about these things,, so it sounded good, at least from a mechanical stand-point)
But if you guys say it should actually work better by being on a switch/timer, it is nothing to put it back on one. I will speak to the TD here about it.
Next, the "coal car", I apologize for not knowing what it is properly called. I did some searching and found the actual car we are using (or atleast one that looks very much like it). It is the 40' Quad Hopper (item #17642) http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/catalog/?function=detail&id=569
It is actually hollow under the platic plate that looks like coal. So the TD opened it and filled it about 1/2 to 2/3 full of BBs to add weight, then re-glued it back on to hide them. I remember him telling me why he did it, and the reasoning behind it. But I can not for the life of me right now remember what the reasoning was. I will have to get back to you on this once I get to work and can talk to him.
Now the monofilament idea stems back to the original set up when it was on a switch/timer. Because of the constant jerking of the hundreds of start-stops every day, the monofilament was added to help decrease the severity of the jerk when the train starts. But I have noticed that as the train goes downhill on the inner-loop, the weight of the cars cases them to catch up to, and actually bump into the back of the train. This may be one of the causes for the derailing in the loop. But if it was, wouldn't that happen every time the train went into the loop?? Like I said, sometimes this thing will run for HOURS without a problem.
Mr. Bach-man, thanks for the advice. I didn't even know that you could lube an engine, much less that it needed it daily. This will definitely be something that will be implemented as soon as we can order the lube.
Mr. Banner,
"With all that running, you may be wearing the flanges off the wheels. Buy an NMRA wheel and track gauge at your local hobby shop and check the wheel profile and the distance between the wheels. If the car wheels are worn, new wheel sets (wheels plus axle) would help with metal wheels being preferred. While you are changing wheels, reaming the axle holes with a truck reamer (also from the hobby shop) will help make them roll easier and reduce the load on the locomotive. You can also lubricate the ends of the axles with graphite (Kadee "Greasem" at the hobby shop.)"
I now have a gauge, and the track, along with all wheels, will be checked tonight. All of our cars have metal wheels. But I will get a reamer for them. Again, this is one of those things that I didn't even think you could do, much less have a specialty tool for. But when you think about it, you go, "DUHH!!, I should have thought of that".
Thanks also for the info on using two engines. I will relay this info to the TD, and I feel confident that he will allow me to start using two engines now.
And now that I know, we will also turn down the voltage on the track.
I am not sure what you mean by "truck mounted" and "body mounted" couplers. Again, sorry for being so ignorant about this hobby. But I will try to find some more info on this and see if it is something we can implement.
Mr. SteamGene, Thanks for the advice on adding more power leads to the track. I kind of thought that would help, but wanted to ask about it before taking it to my TD.
We clean the track once a day, or at least once every two days. The wheels are cleaned at the same time the track is cleaned.
I read somewhere that when cleaning the track I should use a clean cloth. Is it ok, or efficient, to clean the tracks and wheels with Q-tips, or should we be using cloth??
Once again, I thank all of you for your advice and timely responses.