Hello All,
Update...
After the above post, I decided to "sleep on it"!
This morning, to confirm that it is the PCB circuitry and not the decoder, I unplugged the decoder and put in the DC 8-pin plug.
I got out my DC controller and attached it to my stand-alone test track after unhooking the DCC DecoderPro.
When I powered the unit up in DC THE EXACT SAME THING HAPPENED! - -"Rule 17" dimming- -in DC!!!
This is a real head-scratcher!
If "Rule 17" dimming is decoder dependent why is it happening in DC???
Thoughts?

Hello All,
I have three (3) Bachmann HO GP30s: two (2) with factory-installed (OEM- -Original Equipment Manufacturer) DCC-ready Printed Circuit Boards (PCB) with NMRA 8-pin sockets, one (1) with the OEM DCC PCB decoder.
These three (3) units are MUed; originally with Universal consisting.
I am using the Bachmann Dynamis system with the ProBox and 5 Amp booster. I have a stand-alone programming track through my desktop computer running JMRI DecoderPro interfaced with a Digitrax PR3.
Originally I installed Bachmann 2-function (36-552) decoders in the two (2) DCC-ready units with NMRA 8-pin sockets to match the Bachmann OEM PCB decoder.
Because of the limitations of the Bachmann decoders I wasn't able to use  "Rule 17" dimming and Advanced Consisting.
I replaced the two (2) Bachmann decoders with Digitrax DH126P decoders in the units with 8-pin NMRA sockets.
Then I replaced the Bachmann OEM PCB DCC decoder with a "DCC Ready" PCB that I ordered from Bachmann, and added a Digitrax DH126P decoder to the last unit.
After programming all three decoders to their respective addresses- -3001, 3002, 3005, I also changed CVs 49 & 50 to activate "Rule 17" dimming.
Now all three (3) are "stuck" in "Rule 17" dimming.
Using JMRI DecoderPro I confirmed that all the CVs are set to "Normal" function of the lights; FoF & FoR; CV 49 & 50 > Value 0 (zero).
At first, I thought it was a fault with the Digitrax decoders.
I replaced all three (3) decoders with new-out-of-the-package ones- -still no change!
After attempting to reset all three- -CV 8 > Value 008 through the Dynamis DCC system and DecoderPro- -, still nothing.
Unfortunately, Digitrax tech support was of no help. They suggested "resetting" the decoders; CV 8 > Value 008.
I finally replaced the Digitrax decoder with a 2-function Bachmann decoder; which does not support "Rule 17" dimming.
To my surprise, all three (3) locomotives still had "Rule 17" dimming with the OEM Bachmann decoder reset to CV 8 > Value 008.
The problem seems to be with the Bachmann DCC PCB with NMRA 8-pin plugs, both factory-installed and the one I installed to replace the OEM DCC PCB decoder.
Any suggestions as to how to "reset" or "erase" the circuitry in both the OEM PCBs and the replacement board to regain "normal" lighting functions?
Thank you in advance for your time and effort.
J.J.

Hello all,

Here's what I did...And it worked!

I had a spare mini-plug to 1/8-inch cable. I also had a mini-plug to bare wire; that came with my Dynamis system and the screw terminal connector block that came with the Probox.

I cut the 1/8-inch end off of the mini-plug to 1/8-inch cable. I stripped the outer jacket being careful not to nick the insulation on the inner wires or the un-shielded third conductor (bare strands).

Because all the connectors are tip/ring/sleeve I used my multi meter on the continuity setting and determined the conductor
configuration.

As it turns out the red inner wire (tip) is not used. The white wire and the bare copper are the conductors. (There is a diagram on the booster that confirmed this.)

Tip=Not Used
Ring=Positive (red)
Sleeve=Negative (black)

Then I metered between the sleeve receptacle on the Dynamis Command Station and the output pins on both the Command Station and the Pro Box.

Looking at both units the pin on the left side is the white conductor (ring) the pin on the right side is the bare copper (sleeve).

Next, I marked the mini-plug to bare wire conductor with a black permanent marker; sleeve=black, ring=red (no color needed).

Then I used the screw terminal connector block and attached the white (ring) wire to the left terminal and the bare conductor (sleeve) to the right terminal.

I plugged the 1/8-inch connector into the booster from the Pro Box/screw terminal connector block. The booster already had the red output connected to the right rail and the black output to the left rail. (Make sure that both outputs from the Pro Box and the booster connect to the same rail maintaining polarity.)

Then, as per the Pro Box instructions, I used two insulated rail joiners to isolate the programming track. Using color coded (red & black) terminal joiners I attached the mini plug to bare wires to the correct polarity on the programming section (pg. 3 Dymanis Pro Box User Guide).

I then powered up the Dynamis Command Station/Pro Box, then the booster and finally turned on the handset.

Then I ran a know addressed locomotive from the main track to the programming track with no problems.

Next I took another locomotive, placed it on the programming track and read the address correctly.

Now I have the Pro Box AND the 5-Amp booster working in conjunction along with a programming track.

This solution would be a simple "Fix" from Bachmann by supplying OEM produced cables that I cobbled together.

Hope this helps!

Hello all,

Here's what I did...And it worked!

I had a spare mini-plug to 1/8-inch cable. I also had a mini-plug to bare wire; that came with my Dynamis system and the screw terminal connector block that came with the Probox.

I cut the 1/8-inch end off of the mini-plug to 1/8-inch cable. I stripped the outer jacket being careful not to nick the insulation on the inner wires or the un-shielded third conductor (bare wires).

Because all the connectors are tip/ring/sleeve I used my multi meter on the continuity setting and determined the conductor
configuration.

As it turns out the red inner wire (tip) is not used. The white wire and the bare copper are the conductors. (There is a diagram on the booster that confirmed this.)

Tip=Not Used
Ring=Positive (red)
Sleeve=Negative (black)

Then I metered between the sleeve receptacle on the Dynamis Command Station and the output pins on both the Command Station and the Pro Box.

Looking at both units the pin on the left side is the white conductor (ring) the pin on the right side is the bare copper (sleeve).

Next, I marked the mini-plug to bare wire conductor with a black permanent marker; sleeve=black, ring=red (no color needed).

Then I used the screw terminal connector block and attached the white (ring) wire to the left terminal and the bare conductor (sleeve) to the right terminal.

I plugged the 1/8-inch connector into the booster from the Pro Box/screw terminal connector block. The booster already had the red output connected to the right rail and the black output to the left rail. (Make sure that both outputs from the Pro Box and the booster connect to the same rail maintaining polarity.)

Then, as per the Pro Box instructions, I used two insulated rail joiners to isolate the programming track. Using color coded (red & black) terminal joiners I attached the mini plug to bare wires to the correct polarity on the programming section (pg. 3 Dymanis Pro Box User Guide).

I then powered up the Dynamis Command Station/Pro Box, then the booster and finally turned on the handset.

Then I ran a know addressed locomotive from the main track to the programming track with no problems.

Next I took another locomotive, placed it on the programming track and read the address correctly.

Now I have the Pro Box AND the 5-Amp booster working in conjunction along with a programming track.

This solution would be a simple "Fix" from Bachmann by supplying OEM produced cables that I cobbled together.

Hope this helps!

Hello All,

I have a GE 70-ton HO scale locomotive; SP #5114.

When running it makes a HORRIBLE grinding noise. I've removed the fuel tank and shell and it runs silently.

I remounted the shell, not tightening the mounting screws too tight and the noise went away.

Then I remounted the fuel tank and the noise came back, albeit not as loud.

My question is: Is there a way to dampen the motor noise that seems to resonate through the fuel tank?

Thank you in advance for your time and effort.  

Hello All,

Hello All,

More clarification:

I'm not using the Dynamis system or Decoder Dr. in conjunction with each other or with the JMRI Decoder Pro.

The Dynamis and Decodder DR. are the tools I'm currently using to program the Bachmann branded decoders currently in use. I'm upgrading to JMRI so I don't have to use these systems to program decoders no matter the manufacturer.

The JMRI will have the correct interface between my Mac (yes there is a Mac version) and the programming track using a USB to Serial adapter (see JMRI website).

My original question was, is a Bachmann branded, two function decoder; model #44913 a re-branded Lenz? I still haven't gotten a straight answer to my OP.

Thank you all for your responses, input and concerns.

Hello All,

Sorry for the confusion, these are non-sound decoders #44913 type; some have NMRA 8-pin plugs and some I've hard wired in non Bachmann locos.

I'm running the Dynamis system without the ProBox. Currently for programming I'm using a MRC Decoder Dr. on a separate piece of programming track (soon to be the JMRI).

When I get the Decoder Pro set up I'll have it search for the manufacturer of the decoders.

Thank you all for your input and suggestions.

J.J.

Hello All,

I'm setting up JMRI Decoder Pro to program my Bachmann decoders. In the list of manufacturers it doesn't list a Bachmann but it does list Lenz as a manufacturer.

Are Bachmann decoders Lenz?

Thank you for your responses.

J.J.

Hello All,

I'm currently using the Dynamis system with the 5-amp power booster on my 4x8 HO pike. I picked up an "only used once" one for about half the MSRP on eBay!

I'm currently running consists of three GP40's, two GP30's with an additional GP30 as a helper up the 3% grade, a snowplow consist of an F7B and an RS11, along with a single GP40, GP38-2 and a 70-ton & 44-ton switchers.

At any give time I'll have 6 to 8 locos moving simultaneously with no problems.

My turnouts are D/C powered by a separate transformer. They are separated into two blocks that are driven by a CDU for each block. I've been told that this is overkill for the turnouts but some of the turnout motors are PECO's, wired in parallel, and need the extra amperage to activate.

I highly recommend the 5-amp power booster especially if you're powering turnouts.

Hope this helps.

Hello All,

If these are indeed Talgo truck mounted couplers go to the Kadee coupler website and look at the #212 Talgo Adapter kit. It does not include the actual couplers. It does include the hardware and the tool to make the conversion.

While there get a coupler height gauge to determine which coupler best suits your needs: Centerset, Underset or Overset. They come in different shank lengths which you can measure from the original couplers.

The instructions are pretty straight forward and easy to convert without having to install gear boxes or do major surgery.

Hope this helps.

Hello and congratulations on expanding your pike,

Looks GREAT!!! Keep the photos coming!!

From the, "Been there, done that" files...Go DCC now!

I'm on a 4x8 layout and before converting to DCC I had 16 power blocks with two-cab control. The cost of wire and analog controllers alone would have paid for a basic DCC system in the first place.

By switching to DCC there are now only 4 power blocks with the ability to control many more locomotives simultaneously.

Since you are in the early phases of your build, wiring at this time would be easiest and you can build-in for future expansion- -turnouts, signals, lights, etc.

Hope this helps.

Hello All,

When I'm addressing and programming my locomotives and consists in my Dynamis hand set how does it assign their position in the list?

I've entered address 3501, 3502 & 3503; in that order, but moving sequentially with the toggle, it is listed as 3502, 3501 and then 3503. 

Is there a way to re-order the list so when I toggle through 3501 is first, 3502 is second and 3503 is third?

Thank you for your input.

Hello Hunt,

Thank you for the PM.

Jim

Hello and welcome!

Sounds like you've got a great pike and a great way to spend time with your son.

You didn't mention if you're running DC or DCC.

Rather than having one huge locomotive you might consider stringing several smaller locomotives together. This is known as consisting or MU (Multiple Unit).

A single 8-axle DDa40X is rated at 6,600 hp, a GP-40 (4-axle) is rated at 3,000 hp and a GP-30 (4-axle) at 2,250 hp. So two GP-40's would come close to the hp rating of a Dda40X and would be able to negotiate the 18" curves.

You can go to THE DIESEL SHOP website (http://www.thedieselshop.us/index.html) to look up the specs of different locomotives and power ratings.

To MU you'll need locomotives that run at the same speed. Generally locomotives of the same type and manufacturer run pretty closely together, but not always.

If you're running DC you'll need to find out which of your locomotives run at similar speeds. You can do this by timing each locomotive around a loop. If you are running DCC you might be able to speed match these electronically.

Google Speed Matching.

I have 15" radius curves on my pike and with a consist of three GP-40's I've had no problems.

Hope this helps.

Hello Hunt,

I tried to PM you with my contact info but I got a message telling me- -User Hunt has blocked your personal message.

I would like to know your suggestions.

Thank you again.