Thanks gentlemen.  I guess it was something everyone else knew but me.  I did buy a very inexpensive Bachmann controller (in cute colors too), and used the AC from that.  The turnouts work, although they do seem a bit loud.  You would think that with their E-Z track thing going on, they would have a 16vac supply that wasn't part of a DC controller.

Would love to see a version of the Tom Thumb in On30.  The recreation at the B&O Museum in Baltimore is mostly from notes and some sketches made after the fact.  Sorry that Peter Cooper (inventor of gelatin) didn't leave behind some drawings.  But it would be a great model, especially with some coaches behind it.  I have a selfish reason, and that is that my great great great grandfather, James Millholland, at the age of 18, helped build it.  I wish he'd left some notes.

Ken

Always good to let a certified installer do the job, although I'm going to try this next one (Bachmann On30 Rail Bus) myself.  Just had my Bachmann On30 two-truck Shay done with a TSU-750 826020 Micro-Tsunami.  Runs very well, and if I had a decent DCC controller (I have the Bachmann E-Z Command Control Center) I'd be playing with the CVs right now.

I'm putting together a layout for my granddaughters (yeh, that's it!), and so far I see that I am not suppose to connect the turnouts "...TO DC TERMINALS, AS THIS WILL OVERLOAD YOUR ACCESSORY ITEM."  Well, before reading that far I did connect to the track voltage, and all I got was a humm.  So are these turnouts powered by AC, and where does that come from?  I am using a Bachmann E-Z Command Control Center controller, and there are no terminals for AC, as there seem to be on lesser Bachmann controllers.

After you stop laughing, I'd be very grateful for the answer.   

2foot6,

Please post any notes (and maybe photos) on installing the Micro-Tsunami 827010 on the rail bus.  I just ordered one, and have been studying the schematics I can get.  There are four false vents glued on the top of the rail bus roof.  You could probably remove a couple of those and replace them with functioning versions.  There is a grill towards the back of the power unit in the ceiling (most likely for the speaker, but there are places you could drill into the ceiling to give ventilation.

You can install a keep alive capacitor to compensate for dirty track (and other problems) by installing a 220uF, 25 volt capacitor from the probably unused Green/Yellow wire from your decoder to the blue wire (which is like a common to your front and rear headlamps).  The + wire from the capacitor connects to the Blue wire.  I believe SoundTraxx sells that capacitor if it didn't come with the decoder.