All my trains are newer type models. I would only buy DCC type anyway. I like the ease of control. 

Thanks all for the input. I will look into the power terminals.  I so want to add another oval loop (think 00), but not sure of the power. Won't be more engines running than 3. But I will think about it. I'm running out of living room floor! lol

AGSB,

This is the first I have heard of p/n 44597. Without having to buy it first, is there somewhere I can look to see how this would work? (I don't have a reversing loop and don't plan on ever using one).  I tried looking at a picture of this item, but I don't see any exposed pins/leads, so I'm assuming the leads are located underneath the bed.

Let me see if I understand the "possible" usage: in addition to the existing terminals/rerailers, I would add a pair of Power Terminals to each loop, say to the opposite side (farthest from the current installed rerailers).

The part I don't have information on is, how do I get power to these new terminals? Would I just run wires (underneath) the bed to transfer power between each?  (Bachmann should have a manual and/or diagram online to show how this would be used. I googled it and nothing pertaining to this item showed in the results.)

Thanks.

P.S. I reinstalled the modified red power wire I received with the Dynamis. I inserted the metal into the screw mount and plugged it into the back of the Dynamis.  Does anyone know if power is sent from both the Dynamis outputs simultaneously? (Or is it one/other type arrangement).  Note, with the additional power lead plugged into the "inner" loop termainl/rerailer, I am NOT getting a short anymore.


Thanks,

NYCug

D,

My idea for the two terminals/rerailer sections...trip to radio shack to buy 4 small electrical post plugs (not the proper name, I know). They are same type of connection found under crossover frogs, just bigger. They can't be more than a few dollars. My question is...is there polarity on those pins/leads center R/L of terminals/rerailers?

I saw in one Bachmann video, during power setup, that black end was flipped 180 degrees while connecting to the rerailer. I don't remember if that was a DC setup, EZ Command or a Dynamis system.

I have seen mentioned in these forums, people suggest various power augmentations. I just don't want to cause a fire or burn out an engine motor.

As for the farthest/opposite side of my ovals, I'm ok wil buying say a used rerailer. My idea would be to connect a red wire with existing black connection to the left most pins on the left most side, run thin wire under track bed, notch the rerailer, pull small length of wire to add two more of those push connectors (from radio shack), plug in to rerailer and augment power on the opposite side of my loop.

Again my concern is if there is polarity. I suspect there is.

Question: is it posted/noted somewhere more precisely how much the Dynamis can power? I know 2.3 amps, but how many engines, length of track and # of accessories is that? What I have read is simply, "the Dynamis is sufficient for small track layouts. What is that? There must be a way to calculate available Dynamis 2.3amp output runs: x-length of track + x-number of accessories + x-number of engines.

Thx,

NYCug

Doneldon-

Well I don't know how else to power my track.  (See picture of terminal/rerailers)


If I left the crossovers as set from factory (default) then the frogs are NOT powered and my inner track is dead.

How would I jump/extend the power to the inner track at point shown? My layout isn't permanent, it has swallowed my living room floor. lol
I live in an apartment, so track expansion will be limited.  I would like to add a sideline though off the OUTER loop. (either split somewhere at a curved section or branch out from a straight section on the side with the single #6 crossover.)

I have read/seen online, people soldering wires to their track. That would work in a permanent setup. This isn't. About half of the loops run under my raised couch. (Yes meticulously cleaned under/dusted).  When I have company, about half of the track can remain uneffected under the couch. The remaining exposed sections would be removed. (Not ideal, but I don't have a basement/huge home). But boy am I loving these trains. lol

Is there a way to bridge the center of the two terminal/rerailers, where the metal prongs are, so that power is transferred from one to the other?  On the Dynamis, I have two power feeds. #1 port is 3.5mm type plug. #2 port is a push plug with screw down holes for bare wires.

Pic 1

Pic 2

Again I'm going to be facing power...
Side note: I did "test" out all three trains simultaneously on this double oval. The Union Pac 6900 on the outer loop (doesn't like the 18" radius loop), and the Amtrak loco/2 dome cars and Amtrak/UAC TurboTrain, both running on the inner loop. I would NOT run all three like that typically.  Was to see power capability from the Dynamis.


Many thanks for your input.

NYCug

Thanks for the replies. After about 2 hours of Youtube videos, I have it figured out. As a side note, a proper LCD screen not an 8bit or whatever low res currently used would make reading the screen on the Dynamis MUCH easier.

As for my issues...
1. I wasn't getting power on the inner loop when I first setup my track.  It wasn't until I powered the frogs on the crossovers (I connected the wire on all three).
2. Addressing is confusing, compounded by the low resolution screen of the Dynamis and the conflicting directions (Dynamis manual vs. accessory instructions).  In the end, after several programmed EVERYTHING to same code (that was fun to fix), I have everything set up and running, using the Dynamis as intended.  Side note to Bachmann, it would be AWESOME if you published a hard reset of the decoder procedure. I hunted the internet for HOURS looking. Possible suggestion, add a discrete pin hole button or some other clear universal  procedure, for all Bachmann loco's would be great.
3. Turnouts were tricky. The turnout manual directions are sparse to say the least. Once you have choosen the address you want for a DCC accessory, selecting hotkey doesn't do what I (aka newbie) would expect. In my mind, setting a hotkey (1-10) would be the activation for said key. Not simply bring up that particular accessory. In other words, if assigning a hotkey ---> then going to accessory function --->simply pressing assigned hotkey triggers the accessory. Rather than present method ---> enter accessory function ---> press hotkey ---> select onscreen toggle.

Thanks again for the welcome. Yes, the DCC type trains are night/day compared to my Lionel from 30 years ago! Simple tech great at single track/single train layout. But add switches, triggers, multiple trains...definitely need a DCC type system.

Again, many thanks.

Good evening, and hello to all.  I returned to modeling this month. (I had an O scale Lionel as a child)

I will try to provide all revelavant info:
Regular Track = Bachmann N/S, in double loop. (inner is 18" r, outer is 22" r
2 x Bachmann terminal/rerailer sections
3 x Bachmann #6 DCC Single Crossovers (2x Left #44137, 1x Right #44138)
Bachmann EZ Command Wireless Dynamis for control and power
Attached track setup and noted terminals/rerailers location.

All Loco's purchased are DCC. (First test Loco is a Bachmann m/n 62105, Union Pac #6900, DD40AX)
(Another set tried/tested is DCC equiped Rapido TurboTrain. I have a Bachmann m/n 65506 E60CP AMTRAK DCC EQUIPPED on order, due to arrive Friday (01/17/14)
____________________________________________________________

I attached power to the outermost track terminal/rerailer.

Questions:
1.  Totally confused by differing included addressing directions on the #6 Crossovers vs.  Dynamis manual
2.  Does the Dynamis supply enough power for all my track + the 3 crossovers?
(Ultimately, I would like to run two trains AT most at a time with current layout.)
2.  Since I haven't gotten the crossover's to work via DCC yet, what I want to know are both points thrown automatically? Or will I need to activate the crossover twice for rail change?

I am totally lost on how to program/assign the crossovers. (I will watch some youtube, in the hopes there is some info there.)



Note: On running a double loop (18 and 22 radii). If I leave the frogs UNPOWERED as from factory/out of box, the inner loop doesn't get power. If I connect the small cable UNDER the #6 crossover, the inner loop is powered.