Thanks for the comments. The DC loco I have used is an old Athearn. It works but makes a loud buzzing sound so I guess not a great thing to do. That being said I figure the DC loco will not operate on the reverse loop.

Thanks for everyone's response.

With EZ Command DCC you are able to run one DC loco using button 10. With the mated Bachmann DC controller you can run one DC loco without running it on button 10. Since the control systems seem to be interlinked somehow I was wondering if the DC loco will be able to run on the auto controlled reverse loop.

I have been using the Bachmann EZ Command DCC for a couple of years. I occasionally run a DC locomotive on button 10 but not that often. I now have the DC controller that mates to the EZ Command. I am planning to add a reverse loop to my layout and have purchased the Bachmann Auto Reverse module. Because the DC controller is connected to my EZ Command will I be able to run a DC loco on the reverse loop?

Taht pretty well fills in the 'blanks'.

Thank you.

Thank you for the guidance and suggestions.

Thank you folks for all your suggestions.

I bought a "Christmas" Big Hauler with the intention to repaint. What might I use to remove the lettering and the painted-on decorations?

Thanks

What is the difference between the Bachmann power controller that comes with their Big Hauler sets and the Bachmann power controller that comes with their HO sets? There is a note on my Big Hauler controller "Not compatible with  Digital (DCC) Systems."

Is it possible to use a Bachmann E-Z Command DCC system with a Big Hauler 4-6-0? I searched this topic but nothing came up.

I have 2 4-6-0 locomotives on an indoor track I am building. (I understand the issues of using a DCC system on outdoor track.) I also believe the Bachmann decoders may not handle the amp draw of a Big Hauler so a 2 amp decoder is probably required.

I am wondering if the E-Z Command controller and power supply can handle 2 Big Haulers? I only have 8 cars for both locos. But of course these things tend to grow.

There is nothing in the instructions about powering accessories like remote control switches. I just used an old DC controller to do that but I have a friend who bought an E-Z Command set but does not have an old controller to power his switches. Can you take the AC right of the E-Z Command to power switches?

Perhaps. That was my first thought until I connected wires from the track to the points where I attached the black and red decoder leads to the chassis. Red went to the metal 'tongues' on top of each truck and I grounded the black to the chassis. and the motor operates perfectly. It is just when I try to run it on the rails that it does not start without turning the flywheels a bit and have the speed knob up to the 2:00 position of my Bachmann DCC controller. I ran it for 15 to 20 minutes at a fast speed around a loop on my layout. there were a couple of points along the way where it slowed a bit then speeded up. That fit with my understanding, as mentioned in my previous post, that my electrical connection on the track are not sufficient for DCC. However that said I have a Bachmann F unit and a Bachmann GP35 both with factory install decoders working A-OK. I also installed a Bachmann decoder in a Bachman GP30 and that one runs OK.

Good point.

So what is the problem? It works OK when powered DC. It works OK when I clip jumper wires from the rails to the points on the loco where I connected the leads of the decoder. It seems to me that narrows it to a problem between the connection point and the wheels to the track.

In some of the reading about DCC I have been led to understand the conductivity of electricity is more critical under DCC that DC. Such as making sure all rail joiners are soldered. Using a larger gauge buss wire than used for DC and also using more 'drop' wires from the track to the buss wire.

Thanks for the names of the conducting lubricant.

I am using a Bachmann decoder in an older Athearn GP9 that has the white plastic base under the motor. I pulled the motor cut off the 'wings' on the copper clip that holds the brush spring in place and soldered on the gray decoder wire. Then did the same to the copper clip on the top of the motor and soldered the orange wire. According to the spec sheet with the decoder these are the electrical leads to the motor, after you have isolate the motor from the chassis. And according to the spec sheet it is the black and red leads that are connected to the right side and left side of the pick-ups from the track. When I run jumper wires with alligator clips for the rails directly to where I connected the red and black leads the motor runs perfectly. It is jerky at start up when I am drawing the current through the wheels. That leads me to conclude the problem is with the pick-up brushes on the wheels.

Thanks for the suggestion. What is the conductive contact lube called?

Sorry I may have mislead you folks on my previous message. I connected the jumper wires from the track to the black chassis wire and my red wire to the truck connections. (Not the orange and gray.) I have run a wire to both front and back truck connections and soldered the red lead from the decoder to that.

I am using EZ Command. However it seems to be the electrical pick up from the tracks. I used jumper wires to connect the track directly to the orange and gray wires on the decoder and motor runs as it should.

The electrical pick seems OK when I run it in DC but not adequate in DCC.

Any suggestion on improving the pick up on the Athearn trucks?