This may not be helpful, but a question: As described on page 3 of the instructions, do the lights on the controller flash slowly, then rapidly as described, when you are trying to reassign the address? A second suggestion that worked for me when I had a similar problem: At the bottom of page 3 follow the instructions in the last paragraph. Then go back to the top of page 3 and follow the instructions to reassign an address.

I would like to set up two Brill trolleys as funiculars climbing a gradient. Any knowledge of what the maximum gradient (angle) is  that they will climb? Am considering 61086 (Desire) or 61090 (Main St). Thanks.

Mike C: How would that differ from simply attaching all the track pieces together as usual?? That makes a complete electrical connection - yes?

Hunt: Can you elaborate on what wiring needs to be done to be able to use regular EZ track?  I'm going to have a straight run of about 7' so it would sure save me some money not to have to use AR track for the whole length.
Continued thanks!!

"BTW you can use standard E-Z Track as add-on if you add wiring to complete the circuit from auto-reversing to auto-reversing section."

Hunt: Thanks again for your considerate reply. I'm beginning to understand this system a bit better. I don't have a clue what sort of "wiring" I'd need to complete the circuit you mentioned, so I think It would be easier to simply purchase the "AR track".  Thanks again!!

Hunt: Thanks for the reply but that's not the question I asked. I am aware of the products list, but - Must the add-on lengths be auto reversing? If so why does the track included in the kit separately list  4 lengths of 5" AR track and 2 lengths of 5" EZ track? Are the two lengths not AR? Is so, why???

The product description says included are 4 pcs of 5" auto reversing straight track and 2 pcs of 5" straight track (not auto reversing, I assume?)  Can the length of run be increased using standard EZ track or must it be "Auto reversing". If so why the 2 pcs of regular straight track in the package? I need a straight run of about 72" 

Also, does the straight auto reversing track go at each end of the run?   Thanks!!

Thanks to everyone for their helpful suggestions. The plan of gaping the siding, adding a small secondary power source, and leading the trains on and off is working perfectly! There is a small learning curve as to the best power setiings for the main and sidind during switching of trains. That was accomplished easily by plotting the power curves for each track with their respective power sources. Just set both tracks to the ssame voltages and the train going on to the siding runing smoothly onto it - then turn that power source off. Close the siding switch and let the man line run.  If anyone else runs into this quandry I'd be more than happy to suggest this solution - it was very simple and very inexpensive. This is a great HELP board - thanks to all!

What would you suggest filling the gap with? Perhaps a stupid question, but would something like clear finger nail polish be a good choice?

Thanks again - I think the simple solution is to nick the siding track with my Dremel just beyond the switches to deaden it from the main. Then use an extra little Bachmann power source that I have from my N scale layout (this project is HO) and wire it directly to the siding track. Should be able to control the siding independently from the main - would actually be a convenient feature for the layout to be able to control the two trains separetly around the siding in this DC system.

Thanks for that Hunt. Now I know I bought the wrong turnouts. Apparently Bachmann's 44861 and 44862 turnouts ARE power routing. That brings up two questions:
1. Any simple way to make my #5 turnouts power routing?
2. Does anyone know the angle of departure for the two I just mentioned (44861 and 44862) for designing the parallel track?
Continued thanks.

I apologize for re-visiting this topic. I have read the previous posts and am left as confused as I started by the 3 pages of posts. I just constructed a simple siding with left and right #5 EZ track turnouts. I also thought that when you switched from main line to siding ( or vice versa) the power shut off to the opposite track. Not so, both stay equally active. The electrical switching mechanism works fine but is definitely not switching  the power from one track to the other. Can anyone offer a SIMPLE explanation , i.e., are these switches  actually not "power routing" at all? Why are they described as that? Any simple soultion?  Does powering or not powering the frog make any difference to this situation?. I am using DC, not DCC. The siding does me no good if the train on it wants to move!! Thanks for any help offered!

Thanks Hunt - when the pieces arrive I'll lay it out and see what works best for about 2.5"+ separation. Your opinion is quite welcomed!

One error in my previous post. Should have said ". . .add one 12 degree section of . . ." NOT " add one 12 " (inch) section . . ."

Would like to put a single passing siding parallel to my main. Could someone with more experience/computer modeling tell me if my calculations are correct? Using EZ track - use #5 turnouts and add a 3" straight piece to each. Then add one 12" section of 33.25" R curve to each. This should give a straight line between the ends of the two 33.25 " R pieces that have a 2.75" center-to-center separation parallel to the main.  Correct?  Thanks!!