It's an Accucraft Ruby kitbash I did a few years back.

http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21420

Accucraft is doing a Forney variant of their Ruby, which should be out later this fall or thereabouts. It'll need some proper detailing to be sure, but it's a start. It'll be live steam, so think of it as an excuse to get your fingers burnt.

Later,

K

I like the idea, but--as Scot suggests--these locos would be HUGE!  They're 10' wide at the cab, and 50' long. They'd be comparable in size to a K-36 or K-37. 





That's the B'mann 2-8-0 in the middle. When you see something as massive as a K-37, it really does border on "too big." Remember, size was the "big" problem with the B'mann 45 tonner, and the White Pass diesel would dwarf that. I think they would best be taken on by Accucraft or someone like that. Something that big will have limited appeal to those with even average sized railroads.

Nothin' wrong with dreamin', though. I'm still dreamin' about a plastic EBT mikado.

Later,

K

The last time I did decals, I used--I think--micro scale's decal paper, which I found to be a bit easier to apply than Micro-Mark's. It settled down over details better, with virtually no "silvering." It could also be that I'm getting better at applying decals, too. I still hate 'em with a passion, but they are a necessary evil when confronted with the costs of a sheet of custom dry transfers ($90+).

I've heard very good things about the decal paper sold at http://www.tangopapadecals.com/. I've not used it myself, but the folks on the Alps users group seem to like it.

Later,

K

Sure you can. Don't expect to retire from your day job, but there's nothing stopping you from trying. Whether the income is worth the time and effort it takes to maintain it is solely up to you. I know a handful of people who run subscription-optional forums and sites. They all do it for the love of the hobby, not as a means of any significant income.

Another part of the equation is making sure you provide something of value for your subscribers. Articles and such are okay, but you need people to write them for you, and you need to keep them fresh in order to keep people coming back. They're not going to re-up if they've already saved the articles to their hard drives. I publish a quarterly magazine on the East Broad Top railroad, and it takes a good deal of wrangling to keep a moderate backlog, and that's even with a pool of regular contributors. The two independent large scale forums I belong to both offer web storage for their optional membership fee.

The last aspect to look at is the people aspect. All the site administrators I know really dislike dealing with all the petty bickering that invariably goes on between members. I'm sure Johann is saying a big "AMEN" to that. When you sign on for that kind of responsibility, you have to take the good with the bad. And the bad can sometimes be a pain in the rear. I serve as moderator on one site, and that can be enough of a headache from time to time. For me, I'll earn some extra hobby money by building and selling models or surplus equipment.

Later,

K

1) Yes, if they're local and the club is putting on a display. Then, I go more for the social aspect than to actually see/purchase anything.

2) Two or three at the most. My work schedule keeps me from driving long distances to out-of-town shows, so short day trips are my only options.

3) I prefer the larger shows like those at the major conventions (Narrow Gauge, Garden Railway, etc.) The activities outside the show such as layout tours and general tourist stuff make it easier to justify traveling, though a 17 month old daughter tends to throw more wrinkles into that equation than anything else.

4) I like to see what the manufacturers are producing, which is why I prefer the larger trade-oriented shows. Being very singular in focus in terms of my modeling, rows and rows of Lionel and HO stuff just don't have the least bit of appeal for me. I do like looking through books and old photographs, though they're getting harder to come by at the local shows as well. Most of it's the same 'ole stuff.

Later,

K

The flyer I got from my Accucraft dealer stated "Fall 2007" as an estimated delivery. As with any manufacturer, I take those with a grain of salt. If we see pre-production samples at either the ex-Rusty Boat or Lost Wages shows, then we'll have some vague idea.

Later,

K

Quote from: Old Iron on April 24, 2007, 06:39:10 PM
... However, due to lack of commercial equipment (especially engines) the fictitious BLACKLOG TIMBER COMPANY actually became a more successful enterprise on my layout ...

I resemble that remark. At the same time, with Accucraft's #12 coming out this time next year, and two other EBT loco projects sitting on the burners in my workshop, there will soon be a time where I may finally retire my Tuscarora RR locos. BTW, did you notice that Accucraft's doing the 3-bays? They'll be a nice compliment to B'mann's 2 bay.

Later,

K

I think those cars would be ideal candidates for Bachmann's future plans. In other scales, they've proven to have wide-spread appeal to modelers of other railroads (even some "Colorado" folks). Certainly the reaction to the LSC project has illustrated that the appeal is also there in large scale. (Lee and I are the only two "EBT" modelers building them. The rest just like the style of the car.) I forget how many people Bob cut kits for, but LSC if only two in a crowd of 40 or so are active EBT modelers, and LSC is but a very small sampling of the large scale community, then that certainly bodes well for the appeal of these cars.

Later,

K

Quote from: bob kaplan on April 16, 2007, 06:03:52 PM
...what inspired the EBT to go from the little 2-8-0s to the pretty big 2-8-2 (even #12 appeared quite a bit bigger).

It was really nothing more than a natural progression, and the need to move more and more coal off the mountain. The "new era" of motive power on the EBT began in 1908 with #11, which was a 2-6-2. This was the first loco to be able to outpull #7, and with its larger drivers was a bit more surefooted. When the EBT ordered their next new loco, they basically stretched #11 to accommodate an extra driver, ushering in the 2-8-2s.

Later,

K

Here's a link to EBT's #7, which was built to the D&RG's C-19 plans. It was the heaviest consolidation on the EBT.
http://www.raccooncrkrwy.com/ebt7a.jpg

The other 3 EBT consolidations were significantly lighter, built to the same plans as the D&RG's first 2-8-0, dubbed "Mosca." The "Mosca" was actually refused by the D&RG, then sold to the EBT, where she proved quite successful, hence the orders for two identical siblings. Essentially, this loco looked similar to the C-16 class 2-8-0s, but with 40" drivers that were evenly spaced.

The 4-6-0s are harder to describe without photos, but online photos seem to be non-existent. They all rode on 48" drivers, so they were fairly large locos.

You'll find photos of most of the EBT's locos in East Broad Top by Lee Rainey and Frank Kyper. It's out of print, but copies show up on ebay and on used bookstore lists fairly regularly.

Later,

K

Quote from: Steve Stockham on April 07, 2007, 12:10:32 PM
... Some DCC experts have purported that the unit (I'm going to call it "Quasinami") is integral to the correct running of the motor. In essence, if you rip out the "Quasinami" then the motor won't run right! ... 

I'd have to disagree with the "experts" on this one. (A) A simple DC motor doesn't care what the voltage looks like coming into it, it merely needs to be some form of DC. (B) Anything other than a simple DC motor would cost significantly more money. (C) Bachmann ain't about spending money. Is the motor in the DCC-compatible Shay any different than any of the other motors? Probably not in the least.

That's not to say the electronics controlling the motor wouldn't be particular, but if you're installing R/C, chances are good you're going to rip out all the electronics anyway.

Later,

K

As much as I love the operating journal lids on the new trucks, be forewarned that groundcovers--especially thyme, veronica, and sedum--will reach out and open them up or pull them off. This seems to be more of a problem with the archbar trucks, as the lids are a bit looser than the ones on the hopper car.

I did manage to find three of the four that came off.

Later,

K

The Accucraft coupler and draft gear can simply be mounted to the same pad to which the Bachmann coupler draft gear is mounted. You have to drill new holes, but that's it. Jack Thompson did this with his box car:


Jack Thompson photo

More photos of his detailing and weathering of the box car can be found here:
http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45598

I've got the hopper and flat car, and have been more than pleased with them.


http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45084


http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=44154


http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45037

Great models, all very well detailed. If I already didn't have more rolling stock than my railroad can handle, I'd buy a bunch more. I still may yet get a box car. Jacks car really has me jazzed about it.

Later,

K

Remember too, that you need only clean the top surface, as that's where the wheels pick up electricity. (And the ends, too, where they slide into the railjoiners.) One thing you may want to try is a bit of muratic acid. This is the stuff that's used to clean cement, and is usually available at the hardware store for a few bucks a gallon. I use it to prep brass prior to painting it, as it takes the top layer of oxidation right off. (The tarnished finish is merely oxidation.) You can cut the strength of the acid by mixing it with water. It'll still be plenty strong. Wear gloves and work outside if at all possible. It's not the nastiest of stuff, but it's still an acid and should be treated with due respect.

Later,

K

Yes, you'll sand it once it's dried. You can smooth it more-or-less even when applying it, but both the Squadron Green and Bondo will shrink back slightly as it's drying. To sand, use a wet-or-dry sandpaper of fine to very fine grit with a little water. If there is nearby rivet detail, plan on having to redo at least one or two of them on either side of the splice.

Later,

K