OK I'll look at mine tonight.
Adjusting the driver cover plate screws, on the Connie, was a good thing, as you now see first hand the effects thereof.
Don't be afraid to try the same thing on the Light Mountain.

I agree with the B'mann, check for a bent side rod, even a very slight bend can cause major issues.
You state;

QuoteI've taken this thing apart, lubed everything that moves, checked to make sure everything was straight and lined up, and put it back together...

Are you sure the Drivers are quartered properly?

Hi Gustav,

QuoteHmmm....by "gauging" the wheels, you mean using an NMRA gauge to confirm spacing between the wheels...

Yes. This is what I was referring to, using an NMRA gauge to check the spacing and then adjusting the wheels/drivers on their axles to conform to the gauge.
Sometimes there is a bit of vertical float, in the bearing blocks to the frame which generally is a good thing.

In your next post you say

QuoteJust gauged the spacing of the drivers and all other contact wheels including the tender's.  All are fine.

Does this mean that now the wheels are all in gauge and you continue to have issues with it?
Or rather, that by correcting the wheel gauge, the issues have been corrected as well?

If you continue to have problems, I can open mine up and maybe offer another thought or two to try to help you solve this.

QuoteShould I suspect the engine instead of the track?

I would first suspect under gauged wheels/drivers on the lokie, then,
Only after that was corrected, would I suspect track gauge.

I have yet to purchase any B'mann steamer that did not require a re-gauging of the wheels, and/or, drivers (usually both).
Some are close, some are grossly under gauge, and I have yet to find one new within the NMRA gauge tolerance.

Get it gauged right and they will purr like kittens.

I’m not sure I fully understand what’s wrong.
B’mann 19r curves are indeed 15°.
Therefore, 6 will make a quarter circle (90°) and 12 to make a half circle (180°).
You can put one section of 10” straight between each 6 sections, or two pieces of 10” straight between each 12 sections.
Double check that all your curves ends lie flush with each other and that no gaps are present.
Gaps will throw off proper alignment.

QuoteTo clean it, you would take it apart & look for grease & other gunk to clean off.

I agree with GlennW

My choice is a product made by "CRC"
Labeled QD (quick dry) Contact Cleaner, p/n 02130.
Leaves no residue and is plastic safe.
Can be had at most any electrical supply or Lowes or Home Depot.
The little red straw is great for blasting off that old stubborn crud.

Remove the shell.
Take it outside.
Holding it in a vertical position, over an old pan or bowl, spray the entire chassis down heavily, from top to bottom, all sides.
Pay particular attention to all contact points and wheels (Drivers) and gears (both truck and worm).
Use it with the red straw attached and blast off all gunk.
Let it drip dry.
After no more liquid drips off the chassis, lay it on a paper towel or newspaper or similar overnight to allow for all condensate to completely dry.

The evaporation of the cleaner is rapid and as it evaporates it will remove the heat within the chassis. This rapid temperature change will form condensation.

Check for any foreign stuff (i.e. pet hair, carpet fuzz, etc.)

Once the chassis is completely dry from cleaner and residual moisture, it can be lubricated.
Lube the bearings (heavy oil). Small drop each.
Lube the worms (Grease if metal, or heavy oil if plastic). Less is more.
Lube the driver axle gears (heavy oil). Small drop each.
Lube the side rods (light oil) wherever they come in contact with each other and at all pivot points (pins). Small drop each.
Running the chassis will distribute the lubrication.

Again, when it comes to lubricating a loco, the rule is just enough rather than excessive.

If you plan to stay in the hobby for any length of time, this loco is a good one to cut your teeth on as far as troubleshooting, disassembly and adjustment/repair.

B’mann has recently updated the chassis in the 4-8-4. (2-3 years ago?)
If yours is not of the split frame type, send it back to the B’mann factory for a replacement.

The old ones do not compare (revamped chassis) to the new ones except for shell detail.

I agree with Mike and Glenn.

Cheap latex wall paint with a brush.

2 coats on all surfaces, including the edges.

Preferably a shade of brown or green.

What you want to do is not going to fit on a 48x48.

Remember track radius is measured to the center between the rails.
At best, you could add 1 -  5 inch straight every quarter circle.
This will put you less than 2 inches from all edges on all four sides if using B’mann EZ-Track.

24 pcs of B'mann 19r to make a full circle.
Add to that, 1 five inch straight between every 6 curve sections.

Send a picture or basic drawing of your track plan and we will help you figure it out.

B'mann EZ track Turnouts are power routing, therefore, the power connection needs to be on the point end rather than the frog end.

Generally only one power connection is needed with a small layout that will fit on a 4x8 with 2 turnouts.
The key is where that power connection is located in relationship to your turnouts.

Look to this thread.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,967.0.html

In the second reply, I had drawn some basic gif's.
Which one most closely represents what you have?

To ease your mind a bit;
Doubtful that you will need to "cut" anything.
Doubtful that you need more than 1 terminal.

Have a look at the hyperlinked thread that follows.
In the second reply to the post, there is a gif. with four basic double loop plans.
Have a look and reply back which one best represents what you have.
If none are close, please post a simple pic of what you have.
Then we can give you an accurate answer to your question.


http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,967.0.html

This is basically an echo of thirdrails response, maybe it helps?

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,97.msg1255.html#msg1255

Here’s a good place to start.
This is several years old. 
Since originally published some additional manufacturers have joined in the knuckle market (B’mann included).
You will hear many opinions on “which is best”.
At the end of the day, it only matters which is best for you, in your applications.

FWIW
I have close to 200 pcs. of rolling stock.
I use â€"

MT, - Magne-Matic’s
Kato - Magnetics
Atlas - Accumate’s
Red Caboose - Unimates
Bachmann - dummies
And some Rapido’s from various manufacturers.

82% of my roster is some type of knuckle.

You need to figure out what works best for you.

Click the Pic’s to enlarge.

http://www.nscaledivision.com/information_on_couplers.htm

Look Mr. B’ Mann.

Not sure what your problem is.
You have many reporting a problem with slow loading of your web pages.
Add me to the list.

Please justify your response:

Dear All,
My pages open almost instantly on FIOS. Maybe it's your ISP.
Have fun!
The Bach-man

Obviously you have not even bothered to investigate the alleged problem.
Why didn’t you do a little investigation before you posted?

Understandably your response is the same as is so prevalent now-a-days.
Nobody accepts responsibility; they just blow it off on whatever/whoever they can, (‘you’re ISP”)

You would have saved your creditability simply posting that you have contacted your forum administrators about the alleged problem, if you in fact did, rather than saying “there is no problem… must be your ISP”

Shame on you.

Whatever excuse you may offer is just that…


MAN UP

I'm done

Mr. B,
We can’t help but notice the advertisement for H&R trains on your home page.
H&R Trains is my LHS.
They are sponsoring a show this coming weekend Fri 13, Sat 14, and Sun 15.

It is not the common type of train show where one might view a couple of layouts and then visit hundreds of vendor tables.
There are some manufacturer vendor booths but the meat of the show is individual layouts and dioramas.
Their type of train show has judging and awards ribbons for most everything in every scale.

This is the only competitive show in the bay area.
This is truly a train “show”.

H&R Trains does an exceptional job sponsoring this event.
If you’re in the area it’s not to be missed.

Bachmann Industries always has a corporate rep. presence there.
Will you be attending, in person, this time?

Try searching at Spookshow.

http://www.visi.com/%7Espookshow/locos.html