I just went to Walthers site.  The products are there with dimensions. Look up "structures" "HO Scale" "Bachmann" then scroll to the product numbers.  It easy since there are only 2 pages.
LIRRMAN

If these items are still in production try going to Walthers site.  They may provide the dimensions.
LIRRMAN

In my experience, I always found it better to lay all the curves first since the curves are the part of the trackwork that will determine what will fit and what will not.  Using the largest radius possible will, of course, make the trains run smoother and look better BUT using a smaller radius can keep the main line track from running along the walls all the time and allow for some gentle curves in the main instead off all straight track.  The smaller radius will also allow for scenery BEHIND the main which will add depth and perspective to the overall appearance.  On my last layout, after laying out the curves, I found there was insufficient room for the roundhouse I planned (there was plenty of room on paper) without reducing the size of of a small town to almost nothing. So, the roundhouse went in favor of an engine servicing facility which ended up plenty big enough and kept my small town of sufficient size for very interesting switching. What ever you do, be prepared to compromise and rearrange stuff as you go along. If you did the scenery first, rearranging would be much harder.
Good luck.
LIRRMAN

Several years ago I built a G5s Long Island from a Bowser kit and had the same problem on both left & right hand turns.  I turned all the lights out in the room and ran the engine.  Lo and behold a small spark.  The lead trucks or pilot trucks were touching the front cylinders on turns, even 25" radius turns.  A file and a dab of paint corrected the problem.  There is a small flat spot on each of the cylinders so the wheels can clear but it's barely noticeable.  After tweeking the Mantua style motor it runs fine. 

Never had axle problems with Bachmann but, as one reply indicated, have had more than a few split axle problems with Proto.  When I contacted LifeLike replacement parts were "not available".  So, I bought a bunch of Athearn axles and they worked just fine in the Protos and seem to be a much better quality.

My experience is with the Bachmann American Freedom Train. The loco came with DCC on-board.  It ran VERY poorly out of the box on my DC railroad. The headlight was blinking on and off and the engine ran slowly and jerky.  Finally, someone at Bachmann advised me to remove the decoder and replace it with the dummy plug (this may require a magnifying glass).  The engine has run perfectly ever since.  Be sure to place the dummy plug in the correct slots.
LIRRMAN

Reply to Woody Elmore:  I was particularly taken by the third paragraph in your post.  Yes, modern railroading does not have the variety of mixed freight or power found in years gone by.  That, however, is the beauty of model railroading.  You can pick an era and model it with all the variety you now miss in today's modern railroads.  Models are available in all scales for all eras.  Get back in the game.

Regarding the demise of model railroading among the young.  When I go to train shows I tend to agree.  Older "grampas" like me are there with their very young grandsons but I see very few teens and 20 somethings.  Yet, when I read the posts on this Bachmann site, especially the ones on DCC, I'm convinced there are many young people involved in the hobby because they seem to be the only ones that fully understand all the DVV stuff. I sure don't.  I'm further convinced that the young are involved when I try to understand some of the "texting" abbreviations that are used.  I'm not down on DCC.  I think its fascinating and the way to go when you are starting out, have a small layout or only a few locomotives.  It's just not for someone like me who has been collecting locomotives and using cab control (successfully, I might add) for over 50 years.  I grew up in NYC and visited the Lionel showroom, Gilbert Hall of Science and Madison Hardware.  Lionel & American Flyer were the high tech "toys" of their time.  The kids I hung with all debated the pros & cons of Lionel & Flyer the same way they compare iPods and computers (and DCC systems?) today. I truly believe that DCC and all the high tech that goes with it saved model railroading by keeping the young involved.  Just keep manufacturing the locomotives in DCC AND DC so we are all happy.  It's a hobby for life.

This is actually a reply to the Bach Man's reply.  About a year ago I bought a DCC on-board steam locomotive.  It DID NOT run "fine out of the box". Via a phone call, one of your service reps told me I had to remove the on-board chip and  install a little triangular clip (it came with the engine) into the sockets the chip was removed from.  After that, the loco ran fine.  Until I did that, the headlight flickered and the engine ran slow.  Isn't this the same situation?
LIRRMAN

Sorry I took so long to reply.  I go on and off the site.  Anyway, the dimensions of the HO scale Union Station, in inches, are:

4" Across the front
2" Deep  (front to back)
2.5" High
Platforms (4) are:
2.75 Long
2.75" High
1" Deep

I also used an 'N' scale rule:

45' Across the front (smaller than my house)
25' Deep (smaller than my house)
30' High (2 stories-15' per story is not an unusual height) (A little taller than my 1 story ranch)

The platforms are:
35' Long
35' High
15' Deep

Personally, I think the dimension are a better 'N' scale fit than HO.
LIRRMAN

I love cabooses on my HO railroad.  When I see the caboose emerge from the tunnel I know I have the whole train.
LIRRMAN

I guess I'm an old fogey and shouldn't criticize but I do not like the new casual style of writing and would have gotten a large "F" in school if I would have written a letter, report, essay or any other form of communication with absolutely no capitol letters.  I've been scanning  your posts and they are extremely difficult to read and follow.  I'm in a position of hiring new people and if a resume came across my desk written like that it would end up in the circular file. 

Does anyone have a method for aligning freight car wheels.  I had a car that would constantly derail even though all wheels were in gauge/gage.  Turns out they were out of alignment.  I realigned "by eye" and it works OK now but I was wondering if there is a method for alignment as the NMRA gauge/gage provides for gauge/gage?
LIRRMAN

PS: Never realized I was unsure of the spelling of GAGE/GAUGE as it referres to model trains.  The spell check says it's OK either way.  How do you folks spell it?

When backing the locomotive, even through 26" curves, the tender derails. I know the cause but I can't figure out the cure, other than to stop backing up.  The wires connecting the the tender to the locomotive ar too stiff and are basicly pushing the tender off the rails.  Replacing them with more flexible wires is more than I want to tackle.  Any suggestions?
LIRRMAN

HELP!!  A few months ago I found an on-line train dealer site that showed their locomotives on all sides by rotating the engine a full 360 degrees when you clicked on it.  Can't remember the name of the dealer and I've given up searching and asking for help.  Somebody out there must know this retail site.
LIRRMAN

Thanks.  I'm going to use your dimensions for a cardboard mock-up and see how it looks.
LIRRMAN