Ton:
You did perfectly , my friend . Thank you for the explanation. I know some of that, but not nearly everything about it.
Not by a long shot.
I'm new to DCC trains. My On30 4-6-0 is the first locomotive with DCC that I ever bought. The BLI #268 is the second. I have 2 fairly new large scale locomotives( bought new last year) that have sound systems that are DCC capable, but I use magnets glued to the track ties to get the bell and whistle sounds.
At least you can control the bell and whistle sounds on the BLI #268 by flicking the direction switch back and forth. What a pleasant surprise! I downloaded the complete manual on it. 22 pages long! Kind of like a short novel. But it did give me important info on the loco, so that's good.On, and one more thing about the BLI #268: I love it.
Thank you for telling me about it!

Here's the now completed combine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWKUyV9Rrw4

I used 3 LED's instead of one in this car . The car was too dark with only one LED.

J.S. Bach:
Using  a bridge rectifier with a capacitor was suggested to me on a large scale forum several years ago. I had severe flickering problems with the lights in my G Scale passenger cars that I had converted to LED's. The problem with using LED's is that the LED only lights when the train is going in one direction.
It has to do with the way the current from the power supply flows. It flows one way, and the LED lights up. It flows in the reverse direction(when you change the polarity/direction on the power supply to reverse your train), and the LED goes out.
So, when reversing, all the lights would  go off. And,of course, they still flickered going forward.
Someone suggested adding a capacitor/bridge rectifier to solve both problems. He also provided a diagram showing how to connect everything.
I followed his instructions, and both of my lighting problems immediately went away.
It seems to me that with a DCC system, since you are no longer changing the trains direction with the switch on the power supply,the current direction on the tracks remains the same.
With a DCC system you are either using a remote control (such as the MRC Loco Genie DCC system that I installed in my Bachmann On30 4-6-0. With that system in order to reverse the trains direction, you press a button on the IR remote provided with the system. It changes the trains direction, but not the direction of the electrical current that's flowing through the track. Is this a correct assessment, Ton?), or using a command station that is wired directly to the track (like the Bachmann E-Z Command system).
The need for the extra bridge rectifier is thusly eliminated when using LED's to light your cars.
Am I right so far,Ton? Please correct me if I'm not!
The fellow on the large scale forum didn't mention anything about problems with shortening the life of the LED's. I'm not too concerned about it . The ones that I get are cheap, and easy to replace.

Actually, I don't know what type, or value, the resistor is.  I buy the LED's on Ebay from sellers in Hong Kong. They're prewired so I don't have to solder them myself.
Saves a lot of time that way. A lot of 20 LED's costs me about $6-7.00 U.S.
As I'm sure you know, the bridge rectifier is a must have in order to get the lights to work in both directions when running an analog only system.
As far as the capacitor is concerned,a  bigger capacitor is always better than a smaller capacitor when it comes to holding a sufficient charge to prevent flickering.
I tried using the same capacitor with the grain of wheat bulb, and that bulb sucked it dry immediately. And it didn't stop the flickering.
It worked perfectly the moment I replaced the bulb with the LED.
I did some research after reading your post, and I found that the bridge rectifier is unnecessary when running on a DCC system. Unfortunately, my 2 moguls are purely analog, so if I want the cars to be able to run right with the moguls and the DCC 4-6-0 and new 2-8-0, I believe that I'll have to do the same thing to the other remaining cars that I did with this combine.
Can DCC harm the bridge rectifier , or  a car with one installed in it? Or can a bridge rectifier cause problems with a DCC system?
Thanks Ton !

Hi,guys!  
I finally went and upgraded one of my combines to an LED light to replace the standard germ of wheat bulb that these cars come with from the factory.
I used a prewired 5mm warm white LED(fits the hole for the original light bulb perfectly!),a 4 prong bridge rectifier, and a 1000uF25v condenser, and a little hot glue to get the job done.
And as you'll see in the accompanying link. it was a job well done!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UG50YUnUnCc&feature=youtu.be

I hate flickering lights, so I'm going to do the same thing with all of my On30 passenger cars. Next up: I'll be upgrading the observation car that I've in the middle of repainting.
I'd have already finished it, but I had to buy a replacement airbrush. I'll post a video of that finished car on this link when I complete the project.

Ok. Final post and video on the BLI #268.
This is it's first run on my limited layout. I hope that you will all enjoy it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIX6EKZZ780

The #268 arrived yesterday(05-08-20). It's everything that I hoped would be. The sound system works and sounds great. It's definitely in like new condition.
I'm looking forward to giving her a good run on my newly extended track system later today.I bought 11 new straight sections of Bachmann E-Z track with the black road bed on Ebay , and they also arrived in yesterdays mail.
I'll be setting up a dual track, and will probably run her along with my 4-6-0 instead of one of the 2 moguls. She'll get the Bumblebee cars, and the 4-6-0  will get the Pullman Green combine and coach.
I was hoping to have the new observation car repainted and ready by now, but there was an unexpected problem with my Master airbrush, so I had to replace it with  a new one made by KKMoon. It's cheap, but I only need it to last through this one paint job.It will not be here until the 14th,which is kind of a bummer, but there's not much that can be done about it.
I also bought a brand new Bachmann Spectrum D&RGW gondola on Ebay yesterday. It only cost me $40.00,so that was a good deal. It's intended to be for the #268 as that locomotive was a freight engine, and I intend on buying  a dedicated freight train for it that will have the exact same type of cars that are currently attached to the real #268 in Gunnison,Colorado.
I also have bids on a long D&RGW caboose, and a D&RGW/Rio Grande boxcar. They're both in kit form, so it should be fun putting them together if I win the bidding on them.
We'll see!

Thanks, Mr. Bachmann! I'll do what you suggested!

Hi. Would somebody please be kind enough to explain the differences between on3 and On30 trains? I'm looking at trains on Ebay, and the description often says "On3/On30.I find this confusing, and the information I'm finding doesn't really explain the difference, or the conversion process.
So, what is the real difference? It is size of the cars, or is it in the wheelsets? Can I mount a set of Bachmann On30 tender trucks on a On3 car,and be good to go?
I can't find any information online about the conversion process. It looks like it may be in the distance between the rails, with On3 being wider than On30.
Is that correct, and if so, can I just put On30 trucks and/or wheelsets on the car ,and be good to go?
Thanks guys!

 I did some extensive research on her, and she has quite an interesting history.The Bumblebee was just dress up for the Chicago Railroad Fair. I guess that it was just cheaper to keep her that way.
Did you know they named her the Buttercup for the fair, and applied a fictional road name to her? It was " Cripple Creek & Tin Cup Railroad".
Silly.
According to the Gunnison Pioneer Museum, they now call her "Cinderella".
I guess that's better than "Buttercup".

I've done some research on the #268. She was a freight train. I can't find any online references ,or photos showing her hauling passenger cars.
Every single photo I've found shows her hauling freight.
So, to that end, I am going to replicate the train that she currently has attached to her at the Gunison Pioneer Museum, in Gunnison, Colorado.
Those cars are:
A gray D&RGW flanger.
A red D&RGW/Rio Grande gondola.
A red D&RGW/Rio Grande gondola.
A black D&RGW/Rio Grande stock car.   
And a red D&RGW long caboose. 
Sadly, it's unlikely that she'll never pull another train under her own power.
But we can always hope!               

I've put Seuthe smoke generators in 3 different trains (all Large Scale). They work very well, but I don't use them very much .
Most smoke oils are petroleum based, and continued use in an enclosed environment (such as in a room of your house ) can potentially cause breathing problems.
Especially for those with asthma. Like me.
As far as putting one in an On30 Scale train, I wouldn't bother with it. It's not worth the effort of taking these little trains apart.
Believe me, I've taken 2 of those Bachmann 2-6-0's apart as a rebuild project where I combined 2 to make one, and they are not that easy to get apart without damaging them.
And with the parts department currently being closed, and coupled with the fact that they don't carry a lot of replacement parts for the On30 2-6-0, you may quickly come to regret your decision to take your mogul apart just to add an accessory like a smoke generator.
It's up to you,of course, but personally, I wouldn't do it .
I could see doing it to add DCC and sound. But not smoke.

You're also right about the light bleed through the yellow cars. It's pretty bad when I run them behind my Bachmann 4-6-0 that has the MRC Loco Genie DCC system, since I'm running the power supply under nearly full throttle.
It's a lot better when running with either of my non-DCC moguls,since ,unlike the loco with DCC,they can be run with the throttle set for a lot lower power.
I've considered taking the Bumblebee cars apart, and painting the interiors in the Pullman Green,with a black undercoat, but after consideration, it would be a time consuming ,and tedious task, at best.
I'll probably just run those cars behind one of the two moguls , or the new BLI C-16 since I don't have a DCC controller for it yet, and the Pullman green cars behind the 4-6-0.
I also just acquired a PRR observation car on Ebay.
Once it arrives, it will be stripped,sanded lightly, and repainted in the TCP 54-2 Pullman Green paint that I painted my combine with, and probably will do the same with the C&S coach car, although I kind of like the C&S coach car the way it is!
Anyway, thanks for all of your help, and advise on these trains. I'm looking for ward to receiving the "new" C-16 and running it !
Later!

Hi, Ton! I just picked up a BLI Bumblebee #268 on Ebay for $235.00. Condition is like new. It's equipped with Quantum Sound. It cost more than I wanted to spend, but the seller offeredit to me for $30.00 off his original price.
I watched it on Ebay for more than a month ,and, when he finally lowered the price enough for it to be more reasonable, I grabbed it before anyone else did.
Here's a link to the auction so you can have a look ,if you'd like:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Broadway-Limited-ON30-scale-D-RGW-C-16-2-8-0-268-Yellow-Bumble-Bee-Scheme-DCC/264667248874
Let me know what you think!

Thank you, Ton. I was about to buy the BLI #268, but I went on a medical LOA from my work due to the threat posed by the Covid-19 virus. My job is public contact heavy, and my doctor put me off work for at least the next 30 days. Bummer. But better safe than sorry.
I did find one in almost new condition, with the box , for $268.00 otd.
Not bad.
I might try some old TYco track that I have in a set in my storage.
Unfortunately, it's currently in our storage bin, 200 miles away from where I live.
Oh well. I guess that the E-Z track will have to work for now. I'll just run them a little solw to prevent derailments.
Andrew