Consider Aleens Tacky glue if using EZ Track.
If you change your mind about track plans its removable with little effort.

Like every hobby, and every hobby forum I have ever visited, there are cliques.
I won't say anymore about that.
I'm an N Scaler.
I have several B'mann 0-6-0's both solid and split frame.
Is there something I might help you with?

Quotethe blue comes in different colors

umm... did I read that right?

Quotethe blue comes in different colors it is pink here it can also be yellow or blue

Umm... ahhh...err...

...I give up...

Good luck in your search.

Not sure where you live in FL
I live near Tampa.
Lowes carries it at least this far south in 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4in. 4X8 sheets.

Short answer is no.
It depends on your application.
Depending on what you want to do, each has its merits.
There are lots of things to consider.

It would be like asking "Which is better a Hummer or a Funny Car?"

Have a look here:

http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=185

There are several ways to light them.

Track or battery power?
Grain of wheat bulb or LED?
Do it yourself or kit?

http://www.richmondcontrols.com/

A poster here, goes by the name of "Hunt", gives excellent advice regarding loco maintenance.


http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,5659.0.html

Or search his threads.

Hi mustng,

I have one here.
The B'mann 4-4-0 came equipped with traction tires on all four drivers.
Similar to an "o" ring but flat in both inside and outside roughly .250 - .300 Dia. and roughly .025 wide.
See if all four are in place on the drivers.

Ten years in the attic huh...

Whatever your rail type is, it will most likely have oxidized to some extent.

If it's Nickel Silver, initially clean with a lint free cloth (T-shirt) and the 91% isopropyl alcohol, rubbing each section until the cloth shows no residue. Then burnish it by rubbing the rails with a coin, laid flat, covering both rails at the same time. This polishes the railhead to a shinny surface. Do this on each section of rail and finish by wiping again with the alcohol and cloth. Then assemble.
If your track is either Brass or Steel, use a "Bright Boy", Crocus cloth, or Emery cloth graded 600 grit or finer. Some manufacturers just grade it course, medium, or fine. Use the "fine" grade. Then burnish as above preferably with either brass on brass or steel on steel. Again a final wipe with the alcohol before assembly.

After ten + years of storage the grease in your loco will most likely have little to no lubricating properties remaining in it. It may have turned into "gum".
Get an old "pie tin" or suitable container of the "Tupperware" type or equivalent. The cheap disposable "Glad" type is what I use.

Remove the loco shell.
I use an aerosol product made by "CRC" named "QD Contact Cleaner" quick drying formula #02130. It's safe on all plastics and is generally used as an electronic contact cleaner.
It's available at any big box or electronics store, Lowes, Home Depot etc.
LPS also makes a similar product.
Use the red straw into the spray nozzle.
Holding the loco frame vertically over the pan, spray heavily from top to bottom, blasting away all old grease and grime around the drive and gears. Spray the axle cups as well.
If exposed, spray the motor armature commutator and the brushes to remove carbon deposits.
What I'm saying here, is basically hose down the entire chassis, and everything in it, heavily, twice.
When it's clean (drops are clear) stand it (on its wheels) on a piece of cardboard or similar to absorb the residue.
Let it stand 24 hours or until condensate has dried.
Lubricate as per Bob's recommendation and reattach the shell.

I use "Hob-E-Lube" rather than "Labelle",  (6 of one, half dozen of the other) there are many to choose from just make sure its plastic compatible. It's what my LHS carries.

I do not use any type of conductive lube, to me, just another place for crud to collect.
Twelve years in the hobby, never felt like I needed it.
A pencil eraser works well to remove residual carbon from wipers.

To clean the loco wheels I simply cradle the loco upside down and apply power leads to each wheel, and as they are turning, hold a "Q-Tip", moist with the alcohol, to them until each are clean.

While you're in the cleaning mode, remove all the wheel sets from your rolling stock and "dig out" (toothpick) all the junk from the truck journals (axel point cups).
The shells are easily cleaned by removing the trucks followed by a short soak (2-3 minutes) in the sink using "Joy" or "Dawn" dish soap or similar and a light scrub with an old toothbrush.
If you can separate the shell from the frame do so.
Rinse well.
When dry (about 24 hrs) put the wheel sets back in the trucks but don't lubricate them.
Clean the wheel sets using the "Q-Tip" with alcohol, and rotate by hand.

Depending on your curve radius you may, or may not, consider body mount couplers.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Hi Kelly

I no longer own the older one (there were several modifications throughout its production runs) that was in a train set, as I returned it for service several years later. It was indeed replaced with the "new" split frame version.

IIRC the shell is still the same one used since its introduction way back when.

A poster here with the handle "brokemoto" can confirm or refute this and hopefully will chime in.

The difference between the old and new versions is like night and day.

Call Bachmann and explain your situation. They are generally good about such things and may let you keep the old shell.

It's worth a try.

Good Luck.

Of the two, the Connie is the better puller out of the box.

The 9.75r for the Light Mountain is really not a problem but combined with the 4% grade it would be.
A paper shim or small piece of tape under the bearing blocks of the traction tired driver will make it a much better performer.

"Google" S Scale

http://www.americanmodels.com/dealers.phtml

If you suspect Internet crime contact your local law enforcement, or the FBI.

http://www.fbi.gov/cyberinvest/cyberhome.htm

; )

Sounds like a real fun build.

MT (Micro-Trains) makes what we call "pizza cutters" which have grossly oversized flanges.
The majority of modelers I know do not like or use them.
You should be able to get them very cheap, probably even free for the asking.

I'm sure I have some somewhere if you want them.

As far as the widest, I don't know.
I do like Tom's ideas on how to modify them.

You might try using a hole punch, of the closest diameter, and punch some discs from styrene and glue them to the outside of your wheels thereby effectively placing a flange on both sides of the wheels.
I'm thinking of the discs being about +/- .050 > the wheel diameter.

Just some out loud thinking.

Again, sounds like a great project, look forward to progress pics.
Please do keep us posted.


http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/S-4_2ScaleWheels.html

TC,

It's polarity.
It matters not which way the shell is mounted.
It matters not which way the chassis is turned on the track.

The only way to reverse the direction of travel is to reverse the polarity to the motor.

In this case, the only way to reverse the polarity was to rotate the motor 180 degrees, not front to back, but rather roll it over.

You could have reversed the chassis on the track and reversed the body too...
They still would not run in the same direction.

; )

edit for spell check