Hi  Dan,

First, let me state that I am not well versed in other scales other than N.
It is my understanding the "car barn" houses the reversing circuitry.
From what I'm getting from your post, referring to the bumpers, I surmise the bumpers are some type of micro-switch, when made (contact), reverses the polarity. Where the circuit components are located I don't know.
Possibly under the track?

Either way...
I have used this unit;

http://www.ironpeng.com/ipe/auto_r.html

Again, for N scale, and have 2000+ hours on it trouble free.
The circuit has been used for the last 3 Christmas seasons.

Maybe an option for you?
I paid 30 USD at a show several years ago.

Good Luck.

[

QuoteIn order to run any N scale equipment you would need a radius in excess of 22" or diameter of 44", but most things can be run on 19" radius or diameter of 38".

Hi WFO,

I do not know what the first responder is referring to concerning radius, as a matter of fact, I'm not sure he/she is sure of what he/she is talking about. I can assure you it is mis-information at best; to an old schooler like me we call it BS.

Be-ware what information you digest from the internet. This forum, no exception.

For the OP...
It is possible you have maybe mistaken curve radius for curve section degrees.
If you are using Bachmann EZ Track, on the underside, both the degrees of curvature, and the radius, will be embossed.
If not, then make a circle of the track of your using, measure from the center of the circle to the center of track (between rails) this is your radius (r=½D).

That said;
I do not own the new 4-8-2 Heavy.
I do however, own a 4-8-2 Light, several 4-8-4 Northern's, and 2 of the Spectrum "J"'s. (4-8-4) they will all negotiate 11.25r curves, although B'mann recommends 19r.
Granted, you will not be able to run more than 50smph around those radius curves.
I have rolling stock, from most all manufacturers, dating back to the early 70's; most all will negotiate 9r curves.
Some of the newer rolling stock requires a slightly larger radius (Auto-Racks. Deepwells, etc,) to pass each other on curves (passenger cars included.) however if it is a single main... no worries.

If you build your layout with a minimum of 11r curves, you'll be able to run 95%+ of anything ever produced in N scale, open it up to 16r, and you can run anything, including the Hi speed bullet trains of Europe and Asia.

If you're a steam freak, you can include the Big Boy and Challenger.

Good Luck

PS
Steam freaks are a good thing, I am one of them

Hi 632bbc,

Use a 4 OTT Phillips with a good point.

0000 +.

Good Luck

Hi cec209,

Remove the fuel tank by gently rocking (side to side) and pulling straight off (down).

The shell is held to the frame with two tabs just behind the center wheel of the forward truck.
Insert a tooth pick in front of the tab on each side.
Grasp the rear of the loco body (DB wings) with two fingers and with the other hand grasp the frame where the fuel tank was.
Gently pull the rear of the shell from the rear of the chassis (no tabs on the rear of the shell).

If you pull on the rear truck, it will come out before the shell separates from the chassis.

Slow and gentle.

Good Luck

Hi sailaweigh94,

Double check the wheel sets on all your rolling stock, make sure they are all free rolling.

Good Luck

Joe,

Yep, that's (1b) yet another case where having 8 pieces of the 1.906 section would get you closer. (x2 + 1⅛ = 4.937) leaving you only .062 over, rather than .125 over using the 5 in. straight.

I knew I needed to go back to the LHS for something. 

Eventually I'd like to build and run on each scenario we have discussed above.

Hi jerry20,

I remove the wheel sets from the trucks, I then grip the axel with a pair of needle nose pliers far enough down in the jaws to leave a little gap on one side between the wheel back and pliers.
I then insert a small flat screwdriver between the wheel back and the pliers and gently twist.

Good Luck

Some thoughts...

Several posts back I questioned the "oddball" sections included with the 90° crossing. Now I see where they can come in handy, for instance with the 45° crossing using 19r curves.
A 5in straight plus the "oddball" 1.90in. straight gets it pretty close.
Using eight of them with the 30° and 19r also works out pretty close, closer than any other combination.
Problem there is that they are only available with the 90° crossing and you'd have to buy 2 crossings to get the eight pieces.
Also you will need at least two (four would be better) assorted track packs as they include 2ea.of the smaller sizes.
Going that route, there is still going to be some slop on most all possible combinations of filler pieces with all 4 crossings.

So let's say $50 for four assorted track packs plus another $30 for two 90° crossings... that puts the cost at a good quality dremel tool with ~ 50 accessories.
Or you could spend 3 bucks for a competitors track saw and spend the rest on fodder track pieces which could be cut much closer than using manufactured short lengths.

Just thinking out loud...

P.S. Thanks again Joe for all your input into the forums and the trig lessons.

Good Luck

James in fl

The 30 degree crossing measures 2.582 across the opposite faces.
No extra track filler pieces are included with the crossing.

In the 30 degree crossing case, 30/2 = 15, and tan(15) = 0.26794

Degrees of curves needed for each side = 360 - xdeg = 360 - 30 = 330 degrees per side

330 degrees/30 degrees per section = 11 sections per side, or 22 total 11.25" radius curves. 

330 degrees/15 degrees per section = 22 sections per side or 44 total 19" radius curves.

Strleg 11.25r X .26794 = 3.01432 - 1.291 = 1.72332

Strleg 19r X .26794 = 5.09086 - 1.291 = 3.79986



The 45 degree crossing measures 1.744, across the opposite faces. let's call it 1.750.
No extra track filler pieces are included with the crossing.

In the 45 degree crossing case, 45/2 = 22.5, and tan(22.5) = 0.41421

Degrees of curves needed for each side = 360 - xdeg = 360 - 45 = 315 degrees per side

315 degrees/30 degrees per section = 10.5 sections per side, or 21 total 11.25" radius curves. 

315 degrees/15 degrees per section = 21 sections per side or 42 total 19" radius curves.

Strleg 11.25r X .41421 = 4.65986 - xlength/2 (.8750) = 3.78486

Strleg 19r X .41421 = 7.86999 - xlength/2 = (.8750) = 6.99499


Someone, (Joe?) please double check the math.

Hi ntexguy,

The actual rail length on the 44879 crossing gate is 4½ in.

The EZ Track straight sections, that I am aware of, are 1⅛", 1 29/32", 2¼", 4½", 5", 10" and 30" lengths. There may be others I do not possess.

To incorporate this crossing on an oval layout, the two easiest ways to do it are either, buy another crossing and place it on the other side (opposite) of the oval, or purchase the "Assorted Straight Short Sections" track pack, Bachmann P/N 44829.
The track pack includes two pieces of the required 4½" straight sections.

The second option is the less expensive.

Another option to consider is a track saw.

Good Luck.

Glad you figured it out and were able to implement a fix.
Model railroading is a tinkering (not sure that's a word) hobby.
But if you can tinker, and have the time and desire to do so, it's very rewarding.

With the exception of a very few turnouts out of the box, most all need to be fine tuned from most all manufacturers (points filed, gauging, guard rail adjustment, etc.) to be problem free and reliable.
It's a given.

In today's society of instant gratification, and perfection, model railroading sometimes falls a little short.
Although defiantly moving in that direction, to me, that is what makes the hobby what it is.
I don't mind the tinkering, and in fact, I welcome it.
It keeps me off the streets and at home, and I find a little pride, and sense of accomplishment, if I can find a way to make something a little bit better than the way it was.

Better than that, is to help a fellow hobbyist not struggle, as I have, through the school of hard knocks.

You are very welcome.

Run those trains.
(N)joy the hobby.
Have fun, that's what it's all about!

You are very welcome.
Glad I could be of some assistance.

(N)ormal scale is a great adventure!

Have fun!

Hi Bud Beers,

If your terminial/re-railer track is on the main line (it needs to be) and you are still having problems, then look into the switch.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,8792.0.html

As you see in the pics, B'mann has not been consistent in their wiring of these turnouts, for whatever reason (engineering change?).
Either way, the turnout will function properly if wired in one of the two ways shown.
After turning the turnout upside down and removing the 3 Phillips head screws and the back plate, check the rack to pinion orientation.
The points need to securely contact the stock rails in both directions the switch is thrown.
You may be a "tooth off" in either direction (rack to pinion).
Be careful and take your time, the parts will fall out if you try to turn it right side up with the back plate off.

Good Luck

Hi PetalumaLoco,

While the Spectrum J will navigate the 11.25r curves, it sure doesn't like it. Maybe you could use a 19r easement which might help a bit?

The models are the same (611 & 608) however the 611 is also offered in two versions.
Bachmann calls the one version the 50's – 60's version. The other is what's called the Railfan 80's – 90's version which includes an auxiliary tender.

Again, it does not like the 11.25r.

Good luck

Position the terminal anywhere along the green highlighted line.

Hope that helps.

Good Luck