Hi mkinder69,
I'm going to try to help you the best I can, provided with the very limited information you provided.

In the future, if you would provide information such as;
I am using "X" brand track with "X" brand turnouts...
I am modeling in "X" scale...
I am running "X" brand locomotive...
The loco stops before the point...on the point...on the frog...beyond the first turnout but before the second turnout...etc...

The more information you can provide, the more the members here will be able to offer possible solutions/advice.

Help us help you.

That said;

I will assume you are using Bachmann track/turnouts...if not then this may not apply.
I am a Normal modeler so I will also presume you are also...if not, again same disclaimer...

The following links discuss "Bachman specific products" not in combination with other manufacturer products.
Also strictly N gauge.

Look here;

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,11953.0.html

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,8183.0.html

Again, help us help you...we need more information.

Or use the search function, on this board, for your specific scale.


Good Luck

Maybe I jumped the gun here referring to the version you have.
I should have asked "where are the traction tires" before offering advice.
First, does it have traction tires?
Second, if so, on what drivers are the traction tires?
#1 and #4 on right side?
#4 on both sides?
#3 on both sides?

I have three of these lokies, 2 with the tires on the number 4 driver and 1, the newest, on the number 3 driver.

None of the exploded parts sheets show a "tension spring" on the pony truck

According to "spookshow" the tension spring was only on the mid to late "70's version.
http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/bach484.html

I guess all this is neither here nor there, if Trainworld is going to replace it, let them.

Hopefully you will get the newest version in return; it has the split frame and runs far better (smoother) than any previous version.
If the shell was upgraded, and tender pick-up added, it would be worthy of the "Spectrum" designation.

I live across Tampa Bay from you, in pinellas county, about a mile north from Maderia Beach.
I hope you attended the WGH show at the Tampa convention center last weekend, It was great to see all the manufacturers there.

PM me, maybe we could meet up at some up coming shows.

Guess we are both typing at the same time, some weight maybe what works best for yours I don't find it necessary on any of mine. You could try some tungston putty or small lead shot pounded flat and glued.

I am only aware of the 11.25r curved and the 10in. straight terminal tracks.
If Bachmann has recently produced others, I have yet to see them. Those are the only two currently on the products page.
The 10in could always be cut down to fit, if necessary, or you could use a competitor product with wires soldered to joiners.

I don't feel its proper etiquette to publically mention the manufacturer on the Bachmann board but if you pm, I will sent you the link and part number.

Are you building your figure 8 over and under or vertical using a  X crossing?

Hi mrmtox,

Check the wheel gauge on the pony truck. Also check that the pony truck mounting screw is not to tight as to hinder pivot motion and vertical play.

The wheel gauge is easiest checked with a NMRA go/no go gauge, but can be checked with calipers if you don't have one.
Cost of the gauge is ~ 10USD at most LHS, on line, or train shows.

Good reading for beginners here
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/derailments.html

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/wheelsets.html

http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/pdf/S-4.2%202010.02.24.pdf

Good Luck.

I carry a 9v battery to every train show.
I also second Jim's caution.

Good Luck

Hi DoubleDAZ,

I shouldn't have,
My apologies.

Let's go pick up those empties and return to the flooder.
We have bigger fish to fry.

Easy on the throttle...106 hoppers in the queue ... waiting' on us...

We're here to help when we can... the majority of us at least...
The rest... well... I just have to let that go...

Most everything ever made in (N) works on 19r...
One or two cars maybe the exception.
I don't know, I haven't yet possessed any...yet...that don't.

Good Luck

Hi NScaleNewbie,

First, if you plan to spend much time on this forum and gleam any useful information, learn to ignore most of what userACY, ABC, or whichever other moniker he (?) uses or has used, posts.
Its copious amounts of misinformation post after post.
It's a shame the moderators have not stepped in to this point.

QuoteIf you have a 4-8-4 you'll want 19" radius curves to safely operate your loco

How ACY "knows" what you "want" is beyond my intellect.
That said,
The 4-8-4 Northern (Santa Fe) is marketed with 11.25r curves in the Empire Builder set.
Try making your ovals with 11.25r on the inside and 12.5r on the outside. Use some short straight sections on the outer loop portion to prevent contact from overhang on passing trains throughout the curves.

Quote...If you want to operate larger locos on both mainlines then you will need about 43 inches to do that safely. If that is not an option then do not run your 4-8-4 and other larger locos..

Many larger locos will run just fine on the 11.25r curves.
I don't know where he gets off on posting this BS.

I would guess he has little, to no, N Scale experience.

Good Luck

Hi jaywb,

Check the below thread link.
Bachmann N scale turnouts are power routing.
Tons of information already posted on this.
Try searching this forum using the words "turnouts" or "power routing"

Here's your quick answer:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,11953.0.html

Good Luck

Thank you Mr. Bachmann, your reply is very reassuring to us all.
If you build it, they will come.
It is this promise, which keeps many of us coming back for more.

Skipgear,
Our perception is our reality.
I have no doubt you have encountered problems with some of your 4-6-0's, and you wish them to be addressed, as you should.
This does a service to us all.
You are not alone; all consumers (well, most all) feel the same way including myself.
Although we do not know each other, your posts on various forums for a have earned a certain respect from me.
I have no reason to believe that what you post is inaccurate, and therefore, I give you the benefit of doubt.

That said;

Again I will state, I do not yet own one of these locos.
I cannot, and will not, make an assessment simply on what someone posts/claims on the internet.
IMO anyone who would do that is a fool.
The "zoo" forum is full of them piling on when they don't even possess the loco in question.

I am from the old school, seeing is believing.
I hope you can understand and respect that.

Not long ago there was a "chicken little" posting (on the zoo) about pre-mature motor failure on a B'mann loco. Lot's of jumping on the pile, tons of jumping on the pile.
Bachmann replied it was miniscule and well within acceptable QC standards even for US quality QC standards.
Funny, after that, I haven't seen anything since.
Evidently, the pile on train was de-railed.
I don't know what happened with that, between the OP and Bachmann, but something tells me that Bachmann made "it right".

If, in fact, Bachmann has a QC problem with this loco, well then, you already heard it from the horse's mouth, they will stand behind it.
In reality, that is all we as consumers, can hope for, and I applaud Bachmann for their commitment to honor that, and keep us satisfied.

The locos in the field are, well, in the field, and we can't change that.
I have confidence, that Bachmann will take note of your post and investigate it.

Those of us, who have been in this for many years, will follow your advice and correct problems on our workbenches.
In the mean time, you have posted very good information on implementing fixes.
I can only hope Bachmann is listening.
Should I encounter any of the problems you have had, I will certainly take in consideration your resolve.

Let us not forget this; it is a Standard Line, not Spectrum Line loco.

I do not expect it to go "head to head" with the "Connie" or the "J" or the "Light" or "Heavy" Mountains..
Although Bachmann could have easily done that with the "tweaks" mentioned above.

Respectfully,
James in fl

Hi skipgear,

Yes, thanks for the heads up on the 4-6-0 for what maybe potential problems and easy fixes to address them.
I do not yet own one however I will purchase this loco within the month or so.
To me, spending 15 minutes, or even several hours, tweaking a loco to its full potential, is just a part of the hobby which I find quite enjoyable.
I do agree that the RTR crowd may not feel the same way.
Many lack the mechanical aptitude and desire to even open a loco up, much less trouble shoot, and implement a fix.

I am hoping for yet another homerun from our hosts.

As an aside – I am still trying to figure out what is "wrong" with my Light Mountain.
It pulls twelve MT holiday cars on an EZ Track figure 8 made with 11.25r curves and a 60° crossing without slip and nary a tweak.
Don't know what is wrong, maybe I should ask over at the zoo ;-)

Thanks again.
Good Luck

Hi robcope,

I like Aleene's Tacky Glue.

Google it.

Michaels crafts stores carries it.

Good Luck

I wish you and your family well and Godspeed to your wife in her recovery.

If the "switch" is "jiggling as the train approached" this leads me to believe that either the switch coil is not working properly as it should when energized, or the points are not held fast against the stock rails for whatever reason (possibly over/under throw).

If you will, please humor me, and post a pic of the energized turnout upside down, back plate off, with the points thrown in both directions.

I'm at somewhat of a loss here.

If possible, re-assemble the turnout and post pics of the top side of the points when energized in both positions.
Also check that the manual lever is extended all the way in both positions.

I need you to help me.
Awaiting your reply

Hi sonictrain66,

First, let me say your models are beautiful.
I applaud your fine craftsmanship.

In the past several years Bachmann has been moving away from the Rapido couplers as have most all major US manufacturers.
In the US, modelers have pushed for the more realistic "knuckle" type couplers.
They are aesthetically more pleasing than Rapido's as they loosely represent prototypical type couplers used on actual 1:1 trains.
Some of the knuckle type (not all) can be un-coupled with under track magnets.
This can be very convenient; however, reliability of these couplers remains a never ending quest for most of us.

Back to the subject at hand;

I cannot decipher if your choice is truck mount or body mount couplers.

Soon you may be forced into making your own coupler boxes, or possibly modifying ones already on the market if you wish to continue using the Rapido type.
The Rapido coupler is fading away but will remain available for many years to come either through aftermarket or used equipment.

One option might be to use Unimate, EZ Mate, MT T-Shank, etc., couplers in the Rapido boxes.
Another may be to remove the knuckle type box and fabricate a new box for Rapido.
Yet another may be to remove the Rapido box from the trucks of cars converted to knuckle type, and use that on your models, mounting with a screw or probably glue.
Rapido style trucks can be had very inexpensively on eBay, for your use, if this is your desire.
My preferred method of removal of coupler boxes is a Dremel and needle file for molded on, body mount, type boxes and an Exacto blade on molded on truck type boxes.

If it is your choice to have Bachmann locomotive trucks with Rapido couplers (includes power pick-up) check the links below.

I hope this may have been of some help.
I wish you success and Good Luck

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=66_70_81

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=232

Hi racorsr,

I owned one of those many years ago.
If memory serves, the blinking light draws power from the track and is not separately powered.
This is why when the light is on the train slows, and when the light blinks off the train accelerates.
I don't recall if the power is fed via contact strips, or wire, from the track to the light (I'm thinking strips).
Turn the bridge over and check this. Also check for a resistor in the circuit. (I don't recall a resistor, but it has been a long while and memory is not what it used to be).

Quick and easy fix, sever the contact strips you only need a break.
Then solder separate wires to each side of said contact strips and run them back to a separate, properly rated, 12vdc power source.

Used basic train set transformers can be bought at train shows for < $10.

Good Luck