This is all you need to know:

Quote from: Len on August 26, 2007, 01:10:23 PM
Whichever knuckle coupler you choose, if you're going to use the original coupler pocket you'll need some Kadee #212 Talgo adapters.

The fill in the space between the small pin in the original coupler pocket and the large hole in the knuckle coupler.

Len

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,2359.msg20529.html

Quote from: Hunt on August 25, 2007, 08:04:47 PM
Check eBay for what folks are paying for the same or similar Bachmann trains sets.

Old Bachmann trains set are of little value. If you have an interest and space… set them up and enjoy them.

I second that. If you are not interested in model railroading then use them to get some children involved in model railroading and further your father's legacy.

Quote from: Len on August 26, 2007, 01:10:23 PM
Whichever knuckle coupler you choose, if you're going to use the original coupler pocket you'll need some Kadee #212 Talgo adapters.

They fill in the space between the small pin in the original coupler pocket and the large hole in the knuckle coupler.

Len

ABSOLUTELY. None of the afore mentioned couplers are a drop in replacement for a horn hook coupler on a talgo truck. Kudos to you, Len, for not only advising the what but also the how.

I'm jealous. That's some fine modeling, Kyle.

Oh, and momentum also stops the locomotive at a more realistic rate.

Variable DC is for the track feed. It works off the throttle.

Brake slows the locomotive without touching the throttle.

Momentum accellerates and/or slows the locomotive at a more realistic rate while using the throttle. When momentum is on, you can advance the throttle and walk away as your train begins to move and finally reach the speed you advanced the throttle to. That's a neat feature if your locomotive doesn't have flywheels because it counteracts the horribly out of scale speeds that inexpensive locomotives tend to feature.

http://e-hobbyland.com/ka1120pr5unc.html

http://www.cchobbies.com/track/kadee1.htm

Quote from: Big Sol on August 09, 2007, 12:41:20 AM
I've got a 36" wide board, so yeah, I'm stuck with 15" turns for now.

Actually, since you ended up using flex track (on one end anyway) you could go with 17" radius. Just drill a hole in a yard stick and make yourself a compass, then trace the largest radius space will allow. You can leave your straight sections as is, and ease into them.

QuoteI just need oil, track and a few cows to run over

:~) That's funny.

QuoteYes, this segment was SUPPOSED to be straight:

So you didn't follow my advice and mark a center line for your cork while the track was down and properly located?


I'd redraw the crooked radius and relay the cork. It comes up fairly easily with a putty knife and some care. And Atlas makes an assortment of very short sectional track pieces for the gap. You could also slide some spare ties from your flex track under the splice.

QuoteThen, I'll move the track aside and begin outlining the places where the cork will go...

Don't. Squeeze all of your track sections tightly together and mark a center line between the ties every few inches, then take the track up. Connect the dots and use the line to lay your cork. The cork will be in two pieces when you lay it. A brad nailer makes quick work of laying cork on plywood.

Gene, I agree. I have both. The "fancy" one sits on the same rails as your rail stock and mates to the coupler you have just installed and serves as a working model. To me, there's no comparison between the sheet metal guage and to the practical value of a working model. I do use the other features of the NMRA gauge.

Quote from: Conrail Quality on August 07, 2007, 09:15:51 PM
I have a bunch of old Tyco rolling stock, and what I did was cut off the truck-mounted horn hook, and installed a Kadee #5 in the "black box". I did this by drilling a hole in the bottom of the model. The height was incorrect though, that was a pain to fix.

It really can be a great deal of work. And, in the final analysis, what does one have to show for the time and expense? Many of those old cars are grossly out of scale and are poorly decorated/detailed. The transition car is a better choice until the roster can be improved. I know in some cases sentimental value can outweigh practicality.

Gene's advice on replacing your couplers is very good, assuming your cars have coupler pockets vs. couplers mounted to the trucks. You may or may not wish to retrofit the cars if they have truck mounted couplers; it can be rather involved and cars of this style tend to be on the inferior side. Even if the car is well detailed it still lacks a bolster and the ability to be height adjusted for a Kadee coupler.

I would add a Kadee coupler height gauge to the tool want list.