I know this next part was a little more expensive sort of ($15 for 12 sets), but I recently purchased some different positioned ez couplers.  1 pack centered medium, 1 under medium, and centered long. I just felt I wasn't good at adjusting these, so I try a lower coupler which usually helps things out.

Back to the train thesaurus...what's a shim?   

btw, tried the engine this morning with the cement holding its own.  Now it pulled 1 car a few times around, then 2 cars, then 5.  She did very well!!  I wish I had a place to place the odd 300k pic to, but to describe how the coupler mounts are placed into their new homes, well it was almost meant to be placed there.  Between the underside of the front and back part of the shell and the solid metal chassis is the perfect amount of room to cement the bottom side of the coupler mount that I unscrewed from the DC chassis.  The cement seems to keep them in there solid, plus the fact that they're pinned between the front and rear ends on the underside part of the shell and the metal chassis; they're going no where.  Picture an "L" upside down with the top of the the L being the bottom end of the coupler mount glued down, the bottom part sticks out the front and rear of the shell just as it did when screwed to its other chassis.  Trust me, there is NO place to screw in any part of them.  Where it sits currently glued to the shell, it's very thin from the underside of the shell to the upper part.  If you screw it on, it goes right through the shell with two screw ends showing up in front of the cab and rear, no matter how small the screw.  Not good.  Cementing the piece in was my only option.  I'm satisfied how it ended up.  Now to find these darn adapters to compensate for the much bigger holes on the ez mate couplers that keep the coupler in place.  Seeing them sliding in and out makes me cringe.

Now, the test of time to see if these couplers hang tough....

yeah matty, the couplers mount directly in the front and rear of the original blue and yellow shell for the DCC GP 40.  Not great but maybe a bit better than cement   

Thank you for the Kadee number.  I have some older freight cars that I want to convert that have these mounted couplers.  I'll look at these Kadee 20-series couplers for those cars and hopefully cut off the old mounts from the trucks.  Thanks to ABC for reminding me that the tool I need to correct the height of the coupler is a track gauge.  Hopefully that'll be easy enough to use.

For the GP 40 DC, there seems to be no way to add a new coupler to it other than removing the casing, which is screwed in, from its old inner chassis.  There's no screws to reinstall it into the DCC, but some contact cement seems to be holding it in place for now.  I let it sit the night and just set it on the track this morning and connected a 40' gondola to it.  The height surprisingly seems correct, and the engine and hitchhiker seemed to play well together.  I'll let it sit for another night though.  The E-Z Mate coupler flops around pretty good though forwards and back, as again I need to find something to stabilize it.  It doesn't flop up and down very much thankfully as the DC's old casing had a narrow opening for its old horn hook coupler.  So basically once I find something to keep the knuckle coupler still, this thing'll finally be complete......pleeeease train gods, let it be complete!!

thanks for the reply, jward.  No, the issues isn't with truck mounted couplers, but I have tried to configure that as well.  I think I recall reading a post where they said to cut off the mounted couplers, and then put on some number coupler from Kadee.  I wish I could remember that number as there seems to be a million of them.  WAY too confusing!!

I'm trying to install E-Z mate Medium Center couplers, that were on one engine's shell, and transfer them over to another engine.  The older engine is a DC GP 40 but had horn hook couplers.  I removed the old ones but the new ones have a huge hole compared to the former horn hook coupler.  I'll look at Kadee's adapter for this issue.  Sure hope it works.

Thanks for the advice.  Great replies at ANY hour.  Gonna fall over and sleep now.....

yes, that I did (have the utility knife at the ready).  Seems I was able to extract the coupler boxes that were screwed into the main chassis.  There was no where on screw it in on the new shell, so I just grabbed some modeler's cement and did my best to get in to stick (literally).  I'll leave it the night and maybe longer to let it set.  Looks good but I'm afraid of the height of it.  It might be fine but we'll wait to see so when the time is right.

The video was just me showing that I actually got the new shell to fit well and to prove it is a Red & Silver GP 40 in DCC mode.  She ran pretty well, IMO.  Sorry, I should have zeroed in on the coupler issue as that seemed like the only problem left.  I was just happy she was running.  You should've seen the smile on a certain 5 yr old.  Priceless!!

I get extremely frustrated whenever I try to switch over a former horn hook coupler, with it's tiny hole connecting to its tiny stump in the coupler bracket that holds the coupler in place.  When I want to replace the horn hook coupler with an E-Z Mate one, its hole is huge compared to the tiny stump that used to hold the small holed horn hook coupler.  Of course the new knuckle coupler flops all over the place and obviously couples terribly.  Is there a E-Z mate coupler that HAS a small hole to make these kind of coupler conversions a whole lot easier???  I know there's a solution, but when frustration kicks in, my mind goes to mush...

any ideas out there pleeease!

Well....it seems to have adapted quite well, I think.  "Better than the DVD!", my son actually said.  Man, THAT was worth it for that comment.  The only problem, how to get couplers on it.  Newer version is definitely different than its predecessor in that respect.

I'm a terrible videographer as well but this is the engine finally in DCC...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5JRPYtNSEM

oh, heh heh...I knew one of those lines would bite me at some time   

No disrespect intended to any shrinks out there.  Heck, I see one on occasion as well and they keep me pretty sane.  OK...maybe sorta sane     (my quest for the EZ Command DVD cars and engines is a session, or 4, all to itself).

That's great info, Matty.  Thank You.  I'll drop into Walmart tomorrow for a look.  I'll check out Walthers as well or any place that sells storage boxes.

I appreciate you looking for the CSX box, Jettrainfan.  I avoid those dark places as well (oh man, I fear a shrink sermon oncoming with THAT line!!)

TY for the specifics.  I'll drop you a note when the project commences and inevitably when the problems arise...   

Exactly...I'll find a way to make it work.  I did purchase one 4 days ago here:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150454518749&ssPageName=STRK:MEBDIX:IT

I thought I couldn't really go wrong with that price tag.  If the shell transfers over to the DCC GP40, like I heard it should, then life is grand.  If not, I'll try to see what's involved to make it happen.  <shudders>

I hope Doneldon is correct about adapting shells.  I do care about all this, or else I wouldn't have purchased the DC, but if it doesn't then I'm fine with that because I did get the best advice here than I ever would have figured out on my own.

One happy camper!!  TY!!

Okay...heading that way right now.  I hope more beginners see your message.  Thank You!!

Finally got the lid off this B-Unit, and man, I have NO IDEA what to do next  HA!!  (I laugh because I want to cry).  Doesn't seem like a lot of room for nothing.  Think I'll find someone local to take this stuff out for me, but I'd LOVE to be by their side to see how they do it.  Wow, nothing like opening an older DC.  I'm gonna quietly reattach this lid now, then back away slowly from it.

LOL...that idea SOUNDS great, trainboy16, I'm just trying to figure out how to make it happen when I'm gifted with the artistic talent of a gnat.  I may throw that idea at some people I know who might help me understand your concept.  Thanks.

Thanks, jettrainfan.  No promises, I know.  Do I really have to pay the shipping??    (that's a gimmie)

I really expected no replies, guys.  HOPED...but didn't 'expect'. This Forum ceases to amaze me.  Thank you all!!

ABC, I see another new Burlington DCC-equipped FT-A out there for a good price.  I might just scoop that up and make it a secondary engine after the FT-B.  I'm gonna see what's involved in removing everything but the weights, as you mentioned, and maybe see if I can use it to upgrade a DC GP 40.  Then I hope to have the FT-B as my sound (gets more and more exciting as I just type this...whoa!).  This is brand spanking new territory (what else is new), but if I just note everything I do, I may just pull this off.  Fingers crossed....toes too!!

Doneldon...I'm nothing but a sincere fan those of you and other I've seen, that can take a simple train and make it come to life (more so than just turning a controller knob and letting it go).  I have nothing but praise as I watch these trains head out into a virtual countryside sometimes getting so into watching each units go through incredible mountain tunnel scenes or through a cityscape as cars wait to carry on with their day.  I rarely think of all the hours, day, weeks encompassed to make this all happen.  The planning, painting, suitable track for every occurrence as you mentioned.  It's practically art.  Maybe one day I'll create something a tenth a good as some of the things I've witnessed, but to get there, my terminology lapse is the least of my worries.  Just figuring out our simple carpet set is daunting enough.  Constant derailments, coupler issues, lack of CV understanding.  We all have to start somewhere with these layouts, understanding a good layout verses one that seems to cause endless headaches.  I AM hooked to the hobby but it's too easy at times to walk away when the frustration level is beyond attaining the enjoyment I expect every time I hook up a new train on a new day.  I look forward to when this kind of setup is in the rear view mirror and I can start a new level of reality with fine hobby.  Lots of learning first though.  I guess getting some 'frog' help is a step in the right direction 

Thank you all again!

Wow...a "Q" FT now.  There is a TON of terminology going on in this hobby that I seriously have got to find a "Model Train" Thesaurus    I think I saw the word 'frog' in another post.  I believe that too was something I should've paid more attention  too, as I'm having a heck of a time with switch derailments and DCC switch shorts, but I didn't understand what was being said in that one post most of the time I read it.  But that's a future post I fear.  I at least now understand that a 'truck' has nothing to do with a Ford F-150.

I'll do some more searching for these Q FT's, Doneldon.  A wealth of info that I'll be printing off no doubt.  ABC's as well.  Thanks for that link, ABC, but that price tag is a touch over my budget.  Cool to know what you can find out there.  I'll keep looking.  And you're right...I'm no painter!

Thank you for finally letting me know about a Tsunami sound decoder for this unit.  It sounds like there's a lot more range in choices than with the 2-10-2.  I'll look into that when a 'Dummy' (another hilarious term) is located.  I love this hobby!!  I knew I'd eventually get to know a new language one day!!

Cheers, Gents!

Ready and willing to adventure into new territory here.  Great info ABC & -- D 

I've started a search for a Dummy FT-A preferably in my Burlington colors, but I seem shut out in any search I try.  Any ideas for places to find FT-A Dummy engine?  I'll keep a lookin'.

Does an FT-A Diesel have a preferred Tsunami sound decoder I should look to buy?  There seems to be a bunch and I can only guess which one will sound most realistic for that era.

Thanks as always!!