My problem is I can't get the wheels free-rolling.  I will have to put the plastic wheelsets back in, until I can get a truck tuner (reboxx or micromark).  I would prefer to put the right size metal wheels in there.  Unfortunately my LHS only carries Kadee wheels.  They're great for old Roundhouse kits and a few other things.  The Kadees just don't fit right in the Mantua products.  Right now, Mantua is the only company making OT B&O cars. 

There's a Train show coming to DC next month.  I'll try to find what I need there.  What's life for, if you can't spend a few bucks at a Train Show?

Regards,

Jonathan




PS,  The coal load is not so hot.  Will have to work on that, too.  Cool engine though.

 Sorry if I wasn't clear, I was referring to kadee wheelsets, not couplers.

Thanks, just the same.  R,  J

Did you put metal wheels in your Mantuas?  If so, what brand?  I tried Kadees and the points are a touch to long (drags).  I either have to get a truck tuner or find wheels with smaller points.

R,

Jonathan

I don't have the catalog in front of me, but IIRC it says 22" radius for that model.

Aha.  I get it now.  Thanks to you, too, Mr. B.

R,

Jonathan

Holy cow, man!  Now I know why folks want to model large scale.  Great stuff, Ray.

R,

Jonathan

OK, thanks very much.  Just seemed strange that there was only one wire vice two.

Just ran it for the first time.  Runs like a scalded dog, so I can't complain about the current pickup.  It sure is noisy, though.  Perhaps if I add a little heavy lube to main gear, that will help.  Seems strong enough to pull as many OT passenger cars as I can find... got a Mantua B&O pass. on order to start.  Will post a pic soon.  Thanks again, BaltoOhioRRfan.

Just brought home my latest baby, the royal blue B&O 4-4-0.  My curiosity is peaked because I am electrically challenged.  There is a single black wire that runs from the tender and attached by screw to the back of the locomotive.  I understand the tender wheel pickups appears to pick up from both the north and south rail.  If I understand the cryptic diagram page, the leading trucks provide current to the headlight. 

Could one of the driver wheels be providing current to the motor as well?  I have a 25-year-old (estimate) 4-4-0 with no additional black wire.  The old one is much lighter and has no traction tires on the rear drivers.  It use to run well.  It sits in a display case with all my inherited stuff.

Anyway... can any one tell me what the single black wire does?

Regards,

Jonathan

I can't remember the name, but it has to do with clearance.  That device sits well out in front of a tunnel portal or overpass to ensure a train can make it through a potential low clearance situation.  They are still made.  I have seen them in a Walthers catalog.  Sorry, I wish I could remember the name of it.

Regards,

Jonathan

Larry,

Like you, this is my first permanent layout, first time learning to take photos of my layout (a hobby in itself), and first time gaining advice by chatting on a forum.  Some of the folks who have been on this forum a while have encouraged me to keep chatting it up, and never feel bad about asking questions or making mistakes... good advice indeed.  Sincerity goes farther than perfection every time.

Yampa Bob seems to be in the know on photobucket.  I do know before you select the photos to be downloaded, you need to select the size you want the photos.  I have gotten into the habit of selecting the large photos,  and resizing them if I want to attach them to a post on the forum.  I believe the forum will re-size it anyway, but better safe than sorry.

I have mixed flex, sectional, and EZ track all over the place.  I hate waste, so I used every inch of track I had from my gramp's old brass track to the EZ track  from my Acela set.  It all works well, if lain with care.

Thanks for sharing and best of luck with the nolix.  I chickened out on the whole concept of elevation and grade.

Jonathan

I usually start with a very light tan to represent freshly poured concrete or cement.  Then I dry brush various shades of grey to represent aging of the concrete.  For brick and mortar, I use light grey if the building is old and light tan if the building is newer.  Keep in mind I'm partially color blind, but that's what I observe in protypical structures, platforms and sidewalks.  Also, I've found I can make just about any shade I need, mixing up various Apple  Barrel paints.  They're cheap, finish flat, don't stink and are water soluble.

Just my two cents.

Regards,

Jonathan

Larry,

Thanks for sharing!  My favorite activity is exploring other layouts, when one is kind enough to share their photos.  Enjoyed it!

I have set up three different albums on my photobucket account.  One is for narrow bandwidth (small pics for dailups).  One is for larger photos so others can see more detail.  The last one is for me (rolling stock), although others can look if so inclined. 

Take a look if you like.  I'm no photographer, but it gives you an idea of what my layout looks like. 

I understand yours and where you're going with it, so mission accomplished.  Again, thanks for sharing.  Great work!

Regards,

Jonathan

Well, I guess I need to do an inventory, but I suspect I have about 50 of those little cars, including several red VWs, several blue VWs, a black VW convertible, two WWII era Beetles, half a dozen SUVs of various makes, too many Porches, some '64 and '67 Mustangs, a Mach 5, a couple Volvos, AMC Gremlin, Merc Bobcat, a hot rod of some sort, yellow Mini Cooper, Ford Pinto, a few really weird cars only Hot Wheels would make, a couple NASCAR racers, etc.  I plan to purchase only a precious few of the expensive HO cars and trucks for the very front of the layout.  Wonder if I'll ever get around to weathering them.
R,
Jonathan 

PS  If memory serves me correctly, I learned of these cheap cars' existence by reading about it in this forum, many moons ago.  

For the last three years I have been grabbing all the dollar-a-piece HO cars I can grab from wally world.  Mix those with the more expensive Fresh Cherries (Tarzhey I thing) for about $2.50.  They go fast.  I know a few modellers who grab 'em up like I do.  Once they are off the shelves, it seems like a year before there's a fresh batch.  Sure beats the $10-20 price from the catalogs.

Regards,

Jonathan

Thanks, Rusty for taking this on.  Like you said, not matter how we do it, we can all enjoy our trains... it's still the world's greatest hobby.

This inquiring mind is a little more informed.

Regards,

Jonathan