In building my layout I'm running out of space on the AC accessories poles of my MRC power source plus two Bachmann small power sources. Can anyone suggest an AC power bus with multiple poles to operate - 10 +  lights on an n scale layout. It would be ideal if I could mount it underneath my table (3/4" plywood). MRC/ Radio Shack? etc.  Thanks for any input!

Albert's reply is spot-on! It's maddening to hook up a Bachmann loco to another Bachmann car and have them come uncoupled constantly on the slightest curve..  However, I hate to admit it, but a tiny drop of my favorite glue (see above) on the two unstable couplers will solve the problem. Maybe Bachmann should start supplying some brand of pliable glue with their products? How about it Mr. Bachman??

I had the same problem with some rolling stock from various sources. I have a solution that you may not like (and will make the purists shudder). Take an extra coupler and snip off the shaft, leaving only the coupler hook. Use Woodland Scenics "Scenic Accents Glue" (A198). Using a very small amount of the glue, stick the trimmed coupler on top of the low coupler. Presto - a thick coupler that works. The good news is this glue is very plastic and pliable. If you don't like the situation simply separate the two pieces and clean the glue off with water. I've found this glue is magic for lots of different kinds of repairs and has the advantage of being completely reversible if the fix isn't adequate. Needless to say I recommend NEVER using anything  like Super Glue, etc that is irreversible!!

That's fine - by the way - what "code" track is the Bachmann E-Z track?

ACY - I agree with you completly. Unfortunately , for a novice like me, I tend to believe what the reps at the various sources say. None has been right yet.

I have looked exhaustively for Bachmann rail joiners and they seem to be nonexistent. Called Bachmann and they acted like they never existed for sale. I tried some generic joiners from several sources but none come close to fitting e-z track. Anyone have a source for ones that fit???

Thanks - I was afraid those would be the answers!

Am planning to run two trains on the same track (with passing siding); each train using dual locomotives. I assume I'll need more power than supplied by the little Bachmann unit that comes with the train sets. Suggestions for the best MRC unit to buy for this application?
Second question - how do the MRC packs connect into the Bachmann terminal rerailers? Are the plug jacks universal?  Thanks!

I don't think the "breaking in"period is all that rigid. Just run it a while at various speeds - it really does seem to make quite a difference.

The only solution that several of us have found is to add additional weight to the front truck or place washers between the truck and its screw. Again, see the posts on p. 2 "derailments".  These units are simply heavy in the rear so that when it hits a switch or even a slightly rough rail connection the front wheels jump.  I could watch the front truck and actually see the front wheels lifting up slightly.

If you'll scroll down a bit to the topic "derailments" you'll see that several of us have had/do have the exact same problem with that unit. Several solutions are possibles, the first being - send it back and get one that's not defective (that's what I did).  That front truck is too light and bounces/raises up etc at any small excuse. Keep posting on this and several of us will offer advice (that's the easy part!)

Albert - sorry for the novice ignorance, but what is an "MRC"?

I have one of these pulling a dozen cars and it works great. I would like to make a longer train (I have the track for it to look good). My question - Are these locos designed to be able to work together in series; that is, will they pull together if two are placed in series?  I have heard that sometimes a slight difference in pulling power between units of the exact same model will cause problems. Anyone have any experience putting two of these together?  Thanks.  Mr. Bach-man - your thoughts?

Thanks very much!

For a passing siding I assume that I need to have power independently going to the siding so the main line and siding need not be "hot" simultaneously.. Is the best way to use the 10" straight track piece with under track wiring that Bachmann sells, set it up on an individual controller, and then isolate the siding by removing the little track guides that make the electrical connection on E-Z track? Any and all information/advice from those who have a passing siding off a main line would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.