Stan, so you have a QSI and a K right now? Can you give the software version (it's a F10 command), maybe that will straighten this out.

Interesting that both an Aristo TE and the QSI were reported with the same problem.

Regards, Greg

Nickle metal hydride is slightly smaller for the same capacity as nicad.

Lithium ion is WAY smaller for the same capacity as nicad.

The only thing "larger" is lead-acid technology, i.e. gel cells.

Perhaps Dave was comparing something else or was referencing a particulary TYPE of nicad.

I have to agree with Brian on this point.

Regards,  Greg

There's something wrong here. One person can't pull a few coaches up a 2% and another can pull 8 cars up a 4%.

I think we need to get consensus on the actual drawbar pull, and compare it to other locos before saying that something is wrong.

Note: I do NOT disbelieve Tony or Bud!

On the gear ratio, Stan, you quote running light. The point that was being made is pulling power, and that the gear ratio is too tall.

Running light is no test at all for a locomotive, they will go "straight up" with no load.

But first things first, like I said, what is the AVERAGE pulling power of K's? Maybe a few people can submit some more data. There CLEARLY is a disparity between what Tony reported and Bud reported.

Regards, Greg

p.s. proper gearing is more than just pulling power, and electronics cannot compensate completely for an inappropriate gear ratio... otherwise our cars would not need transmissions, just a bigger computer!

The noise in reverse might be mitigated by repositioning the johnson bar!

Seriously I have heard that the position of the reversing gear linkage affects operation and noise.

TOC would know for sure.

Regards, Greg

I think Bud has the best idea. The lights on the K are not connected to the decoder, but to a transistor that works as a current limiter.

The transistors are connected to the socket. The voltages to turn the transistors on and off are not the same as having a LED or lamp connected directly. (or it might be that they require the opposite polarity signal).

The other alternative would be to fool with the transistors and change the circuitry. I would not recommend this, since they are surface mount, and you would have to change the transistor and the resistors.

Regards, Greg

Quote from: the Bach-man on February 08, 2008, 10:48:35 PM
Dear All,
As I've said, we will have individual installs for after market systems posted here as soon as possible. I hope they'll be ready sometime next week.
Stay tuned!
the Bach-man

Just bring this back to the top, wondering if now, 2 months later, this list is available, since many people are asking.

Thanks, Greg

Steve L:

Go over to the MLS forum, and ask, I'll look for your post. There are some simple, inexpensive DCC options for the Aristo.

Regards, Greg

Wrong type! You want one with 2 diodes hooked in parallel in opposite polarities, total of 2 leads.

You have ones with a common cathode (or anode).

You basically "cannot get there from here".

By the way, NEVER test LEDs without a dropping (current limiting) resistor.

Regards, Greg

An interesting idea Joe.

One problem with current designs is that the "chuff" is a sound "bite" that is just played when it is triggered.

A good sounding chuff at slow speeds is "too long" at high speeds, and they run together.

What is needed is a sound system that can vary the duration of the chuff sound with speed.

One manufacturer has this in beta test right now, so hang in there.

Regards, Greg

So that's where "CUFF" came from! (on one of the pictures).



Greg

Elwin:

I'm guessing you are using the QSI "autochuff" and not the Bachmann chuff electronics?

(If you just plugged the QSI in, that's the default condition).

Just wanting confirmation.

Regards, Greg

You can buy the transistor, and you should read the other threads on the transistor. You may want to have someone do this for you, rather than do the conversion yourself.

The reason you do not necessarily need the transistor, is that the problem is not "reversing" the sense of the chuff output, but the ground reference on the Bachmann electronics is not the same as the ground reference on the sound board.

Sometimes the transistor helps, sometimes it does not.

Regards, Greg

Tom, I don't know the humidity where your layout is, but I would strongly encourage the use of something to inhibit rusting.

This might be wiping the rails down with a rag with wd40 on it, or possibly a track cleaning car that had some kind of light oil on it.

Of course you don't want to make the rails slippery, but the raw steel WILL rust, especially if you use something abrasive to clean the rail tops.

Wahl clipper oil has been a favorite of many smaller scales, and it's more of a light solvent that leaves a protective film. It's available on the net for reasonable prices.

Regards, Greg

This might not be much help, but I did a DCC conversion, and it was easier to remove all the wires from the boards in the loco than to figure out the wiring.

I may be completely off base, but I got no wiring diagram with my Annie.

Regards, Greg

Just to help, you do NOT have to toss the existing board. You can connect your airwire receiver to it. You can also get the chuff working without running extra wires from the loco to the tender.

If you will do modifications, like change the leds, or you have trouble with the chuff, or other modifications, you may elect to remove the board in the tender.

Also if you are tight on space, you might remove it also for this reason.

The bottom line is you are not FORCED to remove it, but it COULD be the best idea depending on your installation.

Regards, Greg