When I hear 'B-29' nose, my immediate thought is the observation car on the 'Hiawatha':


For locomotives, all I can come up  with are the IC's 'Green Diamon':


And the 'Flying Yankee':


Len

Looking at the pic of the PCB in the parts listing, there appear two solder pads off the 'L' and 'R' power runs. One is on the 'L' run, near the square opening on the long end of the board. The other is near the 'R' quick connect pad between the resistor cluster and LED light.

That are not marked on the top of the board, but it may be they are for powering the interior lights directly off power from the rails.

Len

Athearn did a DCC Ready version of the CF-7 around 8 or 9 years ago. They still show up on eBay now and then.

Len

All good suggestions Trainman, but even with clean wheels the Rivarossi Berk tender needs a bit of added weight to maintain good electrical contact.

Len

EZ-Track turnouts are twin-coil with a common connection. The center conductor is the common.

Len

I would, but my layout has been packed away for a while now. I'm in the process of moving to a new house, where I'm hoping to finally get things out of the boxes. If I remember right, the left side wheels on the loco are insulated from the axles and it uses the frame as the pickup from the right side wheels.

Len

As often as they fail, in addition to complete harnesses, maybe Bachmann should add 10 packs of the crimp on pins they use. Then people could do their own repair instead of waiting for sold out items to come back.

Len

Mine runs very smooth since I weighted the tender a bit. And strange as it is, the pickup arrangement lets it get across switches and crossings without stalling, like some other locos I own.

Len

The Rivarossi Berk I have uses both the loco and tender for power pick up. It picks up poweer from the right rail with two drivers and two trailing truck wheels, and the tender picks up from the left rail with four wheels. I had to add a bit of weight to the tender to maintain good electical contact.

Len

Exploded diagrams, and other useful information, can be found here:
https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/references.php

Len

The solenoid switch motors in EZ-Track turnouts will operate on 14-16V AC or DC. Be sure to use momentary contact type switches to activate, as the coils will burn out if left powered for more than a second or two. A 'wall-wart' type power supply rated 1 amp (1,000 milliamps), or better, should be used, as the current spike when activated is pretty high.

Len

As Terry says, and the exploded diagram shows, a screw comes down through the upper frame/weight piece to hold the truck in place. Exploded diagram:
https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/HOEMDGP40(DCCEQUIPPED).pdf

This is true for all versions of the GP40, with or without DCC and sound.

Len

The 2951 smoke unit in my earlier post description says, "HO (Universal) Bevel bottom For ALL 0-6-0, 2-6-2, 2-6-0 locomotives. Also used in 2-8-2 & 2-8-0 locomotives (produced prior to 2004).".

There is also a 2911 smoke unit whose descriptions says, "(HO/Large scale Universal) Flat Top used for HO 2-10-4, Overland, Niagara and Class J (produced prior to 2004). Also can be used for Large Scale 4-4-0, 2-6-0, 2-8-0, Climax [New], 0-4-0 Gas Mechanical."
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_91&products_id=1705

Both are roughly the same size, they just have slightly different top and bottom shapes.

The instructions for most HO smoke units say to uses 2 or 3 drops the first time, 3 or 4 after that. I can't say for sure, because I normally remove the smoke unit on HO "smoking" locomotives and use the space to install a small DCC controller.

The only HO locomotives I leave the smoke unit in are some old American Flyer locos with a mechanical piston type smoke unit. They actually produces puffs of smoke and a "chuffing" sound that's a bit more realistic than the 'pot' type smoke units usually found in todays HO locos.

Len

This is the smoke unit used in the 0-6-0 locomotives:

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_212&products_id=1706

Note the wires wrapped around the 'ears' at the top of the unit. They should be in contact with the loco frame on each side of the smoke unit. Also check the wires connecting to the top and bottom of the heating element to make sure they are not broken.

Len

Like Desert Rose said, it would have been nice if Bachmann had sent a notification out letting folks know the forums were back.

Len