The owner has another, larger business, and has his daughter running most of SE trains as I understand it from a friend who goes there (physically) pretty often.

My friend is very happy with them, has bought there for years, and reports they are people of their word.

They may be hard to get hold of, so be persistent. Good prices too.

Regards, Greg

I've been studying this for some time, and it depends on the climatic conditions you have.

If you have extreme temperature changes, you need to handle expansion in a more agressive manner.

I find 2 philosophies work:

Free floating track where the track (rail and ties) are allowed to expand and contract. Basically you anchor the track in ballast, like a real railroad.

You can still fix turnouts to something flat and rigid, like a piece of hardibacker, but most track is allowed to "move" a bit. "Corners" are the most important NOT to fix down, since this is normally where the "give" in the system occurs.

If you have a more extreme climate, like lots of rain, free floating track may wash out and need more maintenance (like a real railroad). This can be handled with drainage, culverts, bridges, etc.

But some people will say I don't want this stuff to move at all. They normally start by screwing the ties down. Well, this normally causes problems immediately, the track will normally expand and contract much more than what you screwed it to.

Most people then experience rails kinking, binding, gapping. The natural thing to do is to let the rails float free in the ties. Unfortunately, this now leads to the REQUIREMENT that the rails slide freely. Nature is never that friendly, and you often get big gaps in some places and none or kinking in others. When this happens, usually the only remedy is "expansion track sections" to allow movement of 1/2 to 3/4". Hillman and Split Jaw make these sections. Used in this situation it can work very well.

I personally recommend that people try to free float the track if at all possible. Done correctly, I feel it is a lot less work and expense.

Hope this helps.

Regards, Greg

The main difference is the P5 is newer technology, and is not operable from DC (as I understand), it is DCC only.

The 2k2 was designed to work with DC and DCC.

I would use the P5, but many people set up their locos to run on DCC and DC, thus the 2k2 is often used.

Since you have not indicated any other uses, using it only with AirWire would make the P5 a better choice in my opinion.

Regards, Greg

The 3 truck shay had an optional sound system. It is an oem version of the SoundTraxx Tsunami.

It works on DC and DCC. So if you give it "normal" track power, it will run fine, although using any PWM power (Pulse Width Modulated) might fool the decoder into thinking it is getting DCC.

Aristo has the ability to put out PWM power in several of it's TE products.

Since you did not specify which of the approximately 7 different Aristo TE products you have, I would say just don't feed PWC power (PWC is Aristo's moniker for PWM).

Regards, Greg

The Phoenix 2k2 works just fine with the AirWire... it is DCC also. You don't need any of the DC capability if you are running it with the AirWire, and the P5 is a much newer design.

Regards, Greg

You can plug it into an "adapter" socket. Then you have screw terminals. Hook the motor to the motor screw terminals, the track pickups to the track screw terminals and it will run.

Then you can hook up the lights to the proper terminals.

Very similar to using the QSI PNP board with the accesory screw terminal board.



In fact you can use the QSI screw terminal board (it's the bottom board, unfortunately, the screw terminals are the green plastic block in the back, hard to see)

Regards, Greg

TAC, read the very first post, the person asking the question says he wants to use the 75 MHz on board receiver.

Maybe you don't know this, but the 75 MHz was NEVER made in a trackside unit, it is made to plug into the Aristo socket.

Also, it has a limit of 2.5 amps, so hooking it to the rails adds to the possibility of running more than one loco from the receiver and destroying it.

Regards, Greg

A friend and I just put a NCE D408 into a connie that already had a Phoenix 2k2 in the tender. It was less wiring to put the D408 in the boiler.

He was in Georgia and I was on the phone to him in California.

Works great... the installation is on my site. www.elmassian.com

Look under MOTIVE POWER, then BACHMANN, then Connie...

Regards, Greg

Maybe Bachmann wants to get into 1:29? Bigger market than 1:20.3.

Go where the money is?

Regards, Greg

It might not be obvious, you need a DCC system to program these settings.

Also, most DCC systems need a booster on their programming track. I do not know if the shay responds to POM.

One last tip, you can buy the QSI programmer for under $100, apparently it can program the Quasinami.

Regards, Greg

I am, I want the Bach-mann on our side, not all mad.

So when I have trouble, he will be helpful, not mad because you beat him up.

Don't you think this is a valid point of view?

Regards, Greg

p.s. if you advice is for me to keep out of your business, how come you added to Dave's thread? By your comment, you should not be commenting about Dave's post, you should worry about yourself (only).

Jeeze.

As many people will attest to, I'm no corporate brown-noser.

But, do you think a post in all caps will improve customer service, or make people want to help more?

Polite requests, positive feedback when something good happens, and objective, constructive criticism when things don't go right, this stuff works.

Do you like being yelled at? Does it make you like the person yelling? Do you feel like going out of your way to help someone yelling at you?

Honestly consider those questions.

Regards, Greg

I've been on the Aristo forum plenty, never heard that the 75 MHz units are sensitive to power interruptions, nor any complaints from them being used on board in that manner.

The negatives I have heard are poor range, sensitivity to interference, and they only have a 2.5 amp capacity, so people blow them up when THEY make a mistake in wiring.

A good antenna and a fuse to the motor will usually solve the problems, and locating the receiver away from the motor or any "weird" electronics.

PB+J asked about track power. Not wanting to start a war, but why do the battery guys always come back with "go battery?", instead of helping the poor guy?

Grumpy: you are reading an instruction manual for installing the Aristocraft plug in decoder in an Aristocraft loco.

That's why it reads that way. When this product was created, there were no other locos with a compatible socket. Now there is the K27 with a compatible socket. No other locos have this.

Regards, Greg

Call or email TOC on the Johnson bar. I know he mentioned this to me before on the K, as I posted earlier. You need to ask him, don't wait for him to pop up here... you could also go to LSC and ask.

Regards, Greg

Thanks Tony, that clarifies Dave's statement.

Regards, Greg