GovB

You can use a drawbar between the locomotive and the log car. Checking pictures of logging operations in any number of books will show that the use of a draw bar was common practice. The draw bar made it possible to couple to cars where coupler heights did not match.



This is a Heisler, but the locomotive drawhead will be similar to that on your 38 ton Shay.  Note the draw bar mounted in a pocket on the Heisler's front draw head.

If you don't want to make your own draw bars then they are avialable from Ozark.  www.ozarkminiatures.com

I've removed the factory supplied knuckle coupler and its mounting shank from all geared locomotives.  When required to pull coupler equipped cars I have modified couplers that fit into a drawhead pocket.  This was also common practice on locomotives equipped with link & pin drawheads.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Neo,
Check out the reversing units made/sold by Split-Jaw Products.

Their web site www.splitjaw.com and phone number is 1-877-762-4822.  Split-Jaw is located in Portland, Oregon.

They offer two versions.  A regular unit that stops and reverses the trolley/locomotive  at the end of the run. The other unit has a multi-stop capability.  These are solid state devices.

Our club has used these units on displays for a number of years with good success.  I've had one for a number of years that has been trouble free.

One of the "Enthusiatic Children"


JD

GovB

If the Shay has metal gear cases that would be a 38 ton Shay



Here's a picture of a Lima Diamond stack. This would be one of the stacks supplied with certain variations of the Shay.  Other funnel type stacks supplied with these Shays would have the same base.  If it is the "Onion" stack it will not have the collar as shown in the picture.  The straight stack does not have the collar; it is one piece.

The stack just pushes in place into the smoke box.  In the picture the collar, small item on left, has been removed.  Yours would most likely have that collar in place. 

Note that the stack has a small molded "key" that lines up with a slot in the smoke box.  Line the stack up with the key lined up with the smoke box notch and push the stack in place.

Your Ely-Thomas probably has the Lima Diamond and possibly several other type stacks supplied.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

GG,
You don't indicate which Mogul, the Spectrum or the Industrial.

Both will operate easily on 8' diameter (4' radius) curves.  I've never run either locomotive on anything less than 8' diameter.  So this is the limit of my experience with minimum diameter for either of the Moguls.

Possibly someone with experience running on tighter diameter will jump in with their observations

A Phoenix sound system will fit in either of the Mogul's tenders.  Plenty of room.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Bob,

Set the Mallet in the bottom half of the clam shell.  Then place the top half of the clam shell over the engine.

Holding the clam shell together, turn the whole thing over.  Then remove the bottom half of the clam shell and you're in business.  This is how I've been turning the Mallet over and it has worked well so far.


On of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Why go through all the aggravation of plugging and unplugging wires that go to the tender each time the locomotive is used?



An easy to build locomotive carrier makes it unnecessary to risk wire damage.  I use carriers for all locomotives that have tenders with wires that run from the locomotive to the tender.

No matter how careful you may be it's only a matter of time until a wire or wires are pulled from a plug.  With the carrier it's easy to move a locomotive to the track, put it in operation and never have to mess with any plugs.  Only time a tender is unplugged from its locomotive is for service. 

Plus a carrier makes storage easy without concern for damage.  Also great when taking locomotives to other layouts for operating sessions.

One of the "Enthusiastic Childern"


JD

A good place to start for information is George Schreyer's site.

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html#dcc

This should get you started.  George has a wealth of information regarding DCC.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

OK James,

Won't tell you!  But the 2-6-6-2 has an optical sensor in each engine.

So it is son of K-27 when it comes to the chuff triggers!

I'm still looking at my Mallet to see if there is a way to trigger the chuff with magnets and reed switches. 

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JohnAH,

As delivered by Bachmann the Davenport was supplied with a second set of couplers.  These couplers have an offset shank. With the offset shank couplers in place the Davenport's coupler height will match up with equipment that has truck mounted couplers.  These offset couplers will match up with your mine wagons.



Note the rear coupler on the Davenport.  It is one of the offset couplers supplied with the locomotive.

Change out your straight shank couplers to the supplied offset and you'll be in business.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

PeterO,
From your comparison it would seem that the B'mann Mallet would "play nice" with your Uintah.  The new Mallet is a small locomotive that should fit in with 1:22.5 equipment.

I checked the size of a Big Hauler cab.  It is just slightly longer than the Mallet's plus it has more roof overhang.  The Big Hauler cab has slightly less cab height.  So, for many folks it would seem the Big Hauler would also "look" OK sharing a layout with the new Mallet.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"


JD

Peter O,
Here you go. Please note all measurements were made with my highly accurate Tru-Value Hardware yardstick!

Height of Cab:
3 3/8" cab floor to edge where cab side meet roof line.
4 1/2" cab floor to top of cab roof vent.
6 3/4" from railhead to top of cab roof vent.

Cab width:  4 3/4"  (does not include grab irons).

Widest measurement:  5" at front engine's steam cylinders.

Overall height:  7 3/4"  railhead to top of backup light.

By the way, the locomotive measures 26"  coupler to coupler, as delivered.

The locomotive's weight is 12 pounds, six ounces.



One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Depending on the vintage of your Big Hauler there may not be a volume/on-off switch on the bottom of the tender.

One way to check the chuff in the tender is as follows.

Make sure the 9 volt battery is installed correctly and making contact.  If equipped, turn on the volume/on-off switch.

Now, take a very small diameter piece of wire.  Bend it into a "U" shape.
Place each end of the bent "U" shaped wire into the plug mounted on the wire coming from the tender.  Each time the wire is inserted in to the plug you should hear a chuff.  No chuff then the problem is with the sound board or wiring in the tender.

If you get a chuff using the above method then the problem is in the lcomotive.  As mentioned above, it could be the switch contacts on the back of the locomotive.  Or, a wire has come loose at the switch or at the sound drum contacts located at the front driver.  It will take a little detective work if the problem is in the locomotive. 

JD

Here's a picture of the Loctite 222 bottle.  This is what you want for small fasteners.



Notice the label notation for small fasteners.  Any Locotite product that is stronger will lock the fastener to the point it will usually break when trying to remove it.  But, applying heat will help break the item loose.  Not the best solution, but that will work.

JD

darkdaniel100,

I feel certain you will be well pleased with this locomotive.

A word of caution.  See the post in reference to a potential problem with crank pin hex head bolts.

Check yours before putting it into service.  Information on taking care of this matter is contained in the referenced post.

Merry Christmas!


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

locoron,

Good advice for owner's of the new 2-6-6-2T.

I checked all the crank pin bolts and wheel mounting Phillips screws before the Mallet was put into service.

Yesterday, after the Mallet had about 10 hours of run time I rechecked the crank pin bolts.  Four of the bolts were loose.  Two were on the crank pins that have the eccentrics.

Use a 9/32 hex head wrench to tighten the crank pin bolts.  A very small amount of Loctite 222 will serve to keep the crank pin bolts in place.  If no Loctite then just a little clear nail polish will work.  And as mentioned; don't
"crank" down on these bolts or the heads will twist off. 


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD