I need someone to draw me a track plan using Atlas sectional to replicate that.....lmfao.

I wouldn't be able to figure out the routing to get a train through all that, let alone actually build it......excellent track work.

I picked up an IHC Hudson with the "elephant ear" smoke lifters from a place up here called SuperStore.

The set was 50 bucks CDN, and had all the cars painted with Smurfs or something.....total value on the track/power pack/cars.....about a buck and a half.

The Hudson, OTOH, is a smooth runner, strong puller and came with a smoke generator. I have been running mine around my layout......4% grades and 18" radii and no troubles. It has directional lighting and all metal wheels w/pickups on the tender. The wire grab irons and the old green CN paint scheme, really make for a sharp replica.

Sid

Quote from: Nigel on April 07, 2007, 04:26:41 PM
Hi Ray;

Looks like the picture you are trying to show is from the members only section on the NKPH&TS's website.

You just gotta dig a little deeper into the page source code...lol.

Thanks for the advice and guidance, Gents.

Hunt....I am running a track plan without a reverse loop now....I was just thinking that a reverser unit at each end could eliminate some intermediate track work between the elevations. (ie: instead of a double mainline up to top level, I have one route with a storage track alongside.)

But, know that I have this knowledge in mind, I will go have another look over the layout and see if I can't work something out. I'm very, very close to being happy with the layout of the track.....just a couple areas need tweaking in my mind.

Sid

I did re-read that.....sorry, I missed the point first time through.....nothing unusual for me though.....got that CRS Syndrome goin on....lol.

Thanks for the explanation.

So...to recap....I can use an auto-reverser when I run the DCC system, and I guess I need to go back to normal old Atlas "switches and snap-relays" for DC operation, correct? I would also need a way to disable or bypass those cicuits when changing back to DCC, right?

Sid

Just slap me one if I'm still thick headed

I should clarify my comment about DC and DCC compatability with the auto-reverser.

My layout is wired for DC as well as DCC....I have some older locos that I will never get around to converting to DCC but still enjoy running them.

What I am asking, I guess, is......will the auto reverser unit work when the track is hooked to the DC power setup? Can I wire one of these units into the DC wiring? I am thinking it should be able to perform the same task whether in DC or DCC.

Or am I still missing the bigger picture?

Sid

Thanks Hunt....I think I'm beginning to understand.

So the max the reverser will trip at is 2 amps?......I take it a loco making contact at the crossed polarity point would never get a 2 amp draw?

Now...one other thing...can an auto-reverser unit be used in DC or are these just DCC only accessories?

Please forgive the rash of questions....I'm recently back into the HO thing....man, lemme tell ya... chit has changed in 15-20 years.....lol.

Sid

If the tear is in a corner try skim coating a little fresh RTV in there with a brush and squeeze....might need to clean up inside a little. Molds have a definite life cycle, and there does come a time when you have to toss it and make a new one.

I know.

Sid

Can anyone answer me this?.....I notice that the auto-reverser has three amperage settings. HO is at 2 AMP. My Bmann decoders are rated at 1 amp.

Would I need to run this on "N" setting (more sensitive?) and would I be popping decoders if it was set to the HO setting Bmann suggests? Seems to me there is a mismatch here.

But what do I know? I'm a car freek....lol. Ask me how to rebuild a 440 Dodge....go ahead ask...lmao.....that I can do blindfolded....electricity puzzles me at times.

Sid

Who has multi decks? Not really.....just a hidden loop underneath a section of the layout.

How high is each deck? Upper elevation is a 6 inch climb.

How deep are your scenes? Have some scenery in back corners that may take a step stool to reach, but all the track is easily accessible from the operating area.

Do you use a helix or work your way up/down the room? U-shaped layout that climbs around the walls.

Do you use staging? I haven't got that far.

Is your staging hidden or visable? If I use it, it will probably be visible.

Is your mainline single or double track? Double now, but am looking at going back to single.

Do you model a prototype or freelance? Purely freelance.......did the rivet counting thing in another hobby and got sick of it.

Do you model a specific era? I like to think I do, but my "era" may cover more years than the next fellow's "era".

Is your layout continuous or point to point? Continuous.....I find watching a slow freighter or a loaded Shay very relaxing to watch as it crawls through the valleys and up the grades.

How big (square feet) is you layout room/space? 7 foot down left wall.....10 feet across top and 9.5 feet down right side......islands at each end for continuous run. I took over the third bedroom upstairs.

I built L-girder and cookie cutter top.........tweaking the plan now........the more I read, the more I see areas to improve.

And that right there is one of the appeals of this hobby.....it never ends. When I was doing automotive replicas, I would finish one then on to the next...etc. Never did like the periods between builds.

The "dynamic" aspect of this hobby is also appealing. Cars just sit there. Trains are inter-active.

Build on

Sid

Don't suppose April 1st has anything to do with it.....does it?lmao

Some of you guys take this waaaaaaay to seriously.

Wish I could help. I just got one recently as well, but mine came with a coal load. I have the WM Ritter model.

Mine slid in smooth as silk.....sorta slipped the rear edge in first, then rotated it in and down.

But you probably don't want to hear that, do you?

Drop the 2nd truck, and you should see a couple screws that hold the bunker shell to the chassis.

I called Bachmann's 1-800 line today......got put through to a gentleman in parts....Tim? Jim?...man I'm bad with names......anyhow, he listened to my tale and without a blink, he offered to send a new decoder. Doesn't want the old one back...nothing.

Perfect!!

If this is an example of Bachmann's customer service, then I think I chose a good product. Hat's off to you!!

Sid

Best thing I have ever used for paint stripper is good old fashioned Easy-Off brand oven cleaner. It has never eaten plastic or resin or metal on me......strips kit plating away in a heartbeat too (for you car guys).

I have left parts soak overnight to loosen stubborn laquers and still have never had it attack the plastic. Just make sure your work area is well ventilated....the fumes are nasty.

BTW....the "low-fume" version doesn't work half as well as the original formula.

Sid

There I was....hapilly running my HO Shay and Climax.......consisted on address 6 of my EZC.....everything running fine......3% grade and 6 cars......all looks good.

On a straight run the Shay quit. Lights out, fire box LED dead, everything. Climax still running on addy 6.

Re-address Climax back to 2....no trouble...hit 6....no response from Shay.....try default addy 3.....nada.

Hooked up DC power.....Shay has lights but doesn't move. This Shay BTW is less than a week old....mailed warranty card yesterday. Both units have Bachmann decoders that I installed, and up until this moment hadn't given me any trouble.

Any how.....Shay on DC doesn't move.....check Climax on DC......off she goes just fine.....put Shay back on track....light but no movement.....thought stuck brush.....gave her a flick on the side of the boiler with my finger and off she goes.

Ten minutes of running on DC and this thing is acting fine.......try DCC again....nada.

Tear open tender.....replace decoder with another Bachmann....off we go.....all is fine.

Did I blow a decoder or has it just lost it's "memory"? Is there any way to save it or is it trash? EZC doesn't seem to have a "reset to default" feature.

Sid