Steam loco wheels have to be 'quartered'. In simple terms, looking at the right side drivers, if all of the screw holes are at the "3 O'clock' position, the screw holes on the left side should all be straight up at "12 O'clock". If not, you'll get binding. The wheels are press fit on the axles, so i something is off, it's usually a simple matter to twist things back into alignment.

Len

Currently out of stock, but this guys advertise a 10th pinion for a 2mm shaft:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/replacement-pinion-gear-2mm-10t.html

Len

Currently, the Atlas #200 Snap-Relay is probably the simplest way to do what you want.

Len

As willis mentioned, the turnout control is designed to only apply power to the activating solinoid for a moment when depressed. Leaving power on for more than a moment results in burned out solinoid contacts. You'll need a latching relay, with it's own power supply for signal lights to control position indicator lights. The simplest way is with an Atlas #200 Snap-Relay.

Len

The numbered turnouts legs diverge at the following angles. If you don't want to cut an curves, use one of the standard sizes with the matching degree of curvature to make a parallel siding:

#4 - 15 degrees, matching curve: #44531 1/2 section (15 deg) of 18" radius curve.
#5 - 12 degrees, matching curve: #44509 2/3 section (12 deg) of 33.25" radius curve.
#6 - 10 degrees, matching curve: #44530 1/3 section (10 deg) of 18" radius curve.

P/N's for curves are for nickle silver track.

Len

The turnouts will operate fine with anywhere between 14V and 16V AC or DC. Just make sure the power supply is rated 1 amp or better.

Len

I've done the FT-A myself following those instructions, but using a Digitrax decoder, and it worked fine. With a couple of exceptions I couldn't work around, I try not to have the chassis involved in power pickup at all when converting to DCC.

Len

That's an old set from the horn-hook coupler days, so more than likely it has a 'pancake' motor. You'd have to look at the on-line auction sites, or a flea market, to find a similar loco with a working motor. And no guarantees how long it would last.

Another options would be to get a modern F7 chassis and motor. You might have to finagle a bit to get your shell to fit. They are available with black or silver truck frames:
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_203&products_id=11384
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_203&products_id=12107

Or, you could opt for a completely new loco. Searching for HO F7A ATSF on-line should pop a number of retail sites offering something you might like.

Len

I suspect you missed a step or two during the installation. Step-by-step instructions for installing a decoder in the FT-A/B can be found here:

https://drupal.tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1212

The pics show a TCS T1 decoder (since discontinued) being installed, but the steps are the same for anyone's equivelant decoder.

Len

If by resistors you mean the two devices labeled 'L1' and 'L2', those are inductors, not resistors. They are used in conjuntion with capacitors 'C3' and 'C4' as part of a mootor electronic noise reduction circuit required in Europe. If you are going to add a DCC decoder, you can remove 'C3' and 'C4' by clipping the leads so they don't cause problems. The inductors will not effect anything if left in place.

Len

I use some 1000 grit emery cloth wrapped around a square piece of basswood to level off high frogs. I use a piece long enough for bare basswood to ride on the adjacent rails so I don't take the frog down too far.

Len

I have to admit I'm in the 'mixed bag' camp. When the "KL&B Eastern Lines Railroad Museum", where Eastern is anything east of the Continental Divide, isn't in boxes it operates steam, diesel, electric and horse drawn tram.

Since I'm in the process of moving to a new house, hopefully the boxes will be getting opened again soon.

Len

Just about any 8-pin decoder will work if you aren't planning to add sound. Digitrax recommends their DH165IP with integrated plug. If you want sound the Soundtraxx decoder selector recommends the TSU-PNP8 replacement PC board with the 810154 Mini Cube Oval Speaker/Baffle.

Len

I wish I had 60 feet of space to dedicate to an entire layout, never mind one elevation change.

Len

The OP said he's going the 4x8 route, so the 2" foam on top of the plywood makes sense if he want's an easy way to make rivers and gullies. It's a lot easier to carve the foam than to saw up the plywood table top and drop sections to create rivers. And the foam pieces removed to create the rivers and be flipped over and used to create small hills to break up the view a bit.

Len