Stan,
There is a Philllips head screw, one on each side of the frame.  These screws attach the bolster to the locomotive.  Remove these screws and the bolster along with the motor block comes out as one unit.



A real easy process to remove the motor block assembly and bolster.

Rear truck held in the same. Just don't have a picture to post.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Your modifications to the 10-Wheeler and the coach really enhance the looks of both.  Nice work.

Don't dare to allow our Gracie to see that last picture.  Our "Pit Cat" will now want to camp out in the train boxes.  Great picture.  Dave picked the right name for that model.   

Good grief!

Now that "The Caboose" is just about here we can start a thread that will go on ad nauseam speculating on the new Forney, its features, and most importantly when it will be delivered.

I can see the "Amen Choir" and "Danny" all over Bachmann Industries in general and certain representatives in reference to the new Forney.   

A Forney thread could end up being at least 6-8 pages long.  I can hardly wait and anticipate!  Not.

I'll just go run what I have and enjoy my trains.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Here is a picture of the "nylon" bushing described above.



As mentioned the shoulder on the bushing fits up tight against the back of the driver.  The washer goes to the outside of the bushing, sets against the bushing and is under the driver mounting screw.

If your front driver bushings are extremely loose and worn then the driver could wobble on the axle.

I have two of these bushings and washers that I could spare.  Send me your address and I'll put two in the mail.  I'd like to keep the other two I have just in case I should need them.  My e-mail is jlsrails@aol.com

One other thought.  Did you by chance have the bottom cover off the locomotive?  There are brass bushings on each axle.  The axle turns in these bushings.  The bushings have a recess that allows the bushing to set in the motor case and in the cover.  Sometimes when the bottom cover is removed one or more of these bushing will slip inside the motor case and the axle will not be properly supported.  An out of place bushing (s) will allow the axle to move up and down where is passes through the motor case.  This can cause what appears to be a loose driver.  If you've had the bottom cover off the locomotive you might want to check to see that these brass bushings are in place and have not moved inside the case on the axle shaft.



One more picture.  This is the driver with bushing in place. Notice shoulder fit tight against the back of the wheel.  Also, the brass bushing that fits into the motor block case.  This bushing supports the wheel/axle. The machined recess fits into the case to position and hold bushing in place. 

If none of the above fixes your problem, then I've expended my knowledge on what may be causing the drivers to wobble.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

If the mounting screw is tight then the next item to check is the "nylon" bushing in each wheel.  This bushing has external and internal flats.  This bushing is what holds the wheel centered on the axle and the flats match up with flats in the wheel and on the axle.  These flats are what keep the drive wheel from turning on the axle as well as keep the driver in quarter.

I have some extras of these.  Four to be exact.  If these have worn on your front drivers that could account for the loose drivers.

Give me a little time.  I'm going to take a picture of these bushings and the nylon washer that is part of this assembly.  I'll post a picture here just as soon as I can take the picture.  In the meantime, remove the mounting screw and take one of the drivers off the axle.  The bushing has a shoulder on the back side that sets against the wheel Look at that nylon insert to determine its condition; it should be a tight fit in the wheel.   Right under the mounting screw will be a nylon washer that tightens against the bushing.  Don't loose the washer when you remove the driver.

I get back ASAP with the picture.

JD

The screw that attaches the driver to the axle has worked loose.  Not an uncommon situation.

Remove the side rods and connecting rods.  Being careful not to strip the hex head screw thread.

Remove the center plastic portion of the driver.  Under the driver "cap" you will see a Phillips head screw that attaches the driver to the axle.



This is one of the plastic centers removed from a driver.  These are interference fit and pressed into the metal driver.  Since your drivers are so loose, support the driver when removing this center plastic portion. Go on the back side of the driver an push against the plastic portion of the counter weight.  Then with a small, thin, flat blade screw driver work it under to spokes and pry the plastic portion from the metal wheel.

Remove the Phillips screw, being careful not to loose the parts.  Place a very small drop of Loctite 222 on the Phillips head screw threads and intall the screw. Snug up the mounting screw.  If you don't have Loctite 222 just use a little clear nail polish on the threads.  Get the screw in place before the nail polish has a chance to dry. 

While you are at it check the rear drivers.  They probably could use tightening.  Just don't go "nuts" and over tighten the screws.  They should just be snug.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

The CD&StL has had a Heisler on the roster since December 2003.  The locomotive is flawless in its operation.

When first purchased the noise suppression PCBs were removed from each motor. Locomotive converted to battery/RC.  Since that time there has been no requirement for any repairs.  The locomotive is operated on a regular basis.



This is a picture of the Heisller, operating on the PT&GB RR.  It has 30 Bachmann reefers behind the tank.  With those cars plus battery car and caboose it easily handles a long 2% grade on the PT&GB.

I should note that 30 car consists are not usually pulled by the Heisler. The reefer consist was pulled as a test to find out just what the locomotive would handle.  Normally a consist of 8-12 1:20.3 cars are handled by the Heisler.

I would certainly purchase another Heisler.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

In any case, the photo that Bucksco posted is the little 20' flat.  Then according to the Bach Mann no new car is being produced.

Based on these comments I've cancelled my order for the skidder on the flat car.  Changed order to skidder only.  I have scratch built 1:20.3 twenty-two foot flats and I'll use one of these for the skidder.  The skidder will make a nice addition to the Black Swamp Timber's logging equipment.

JD

Doug
Send me your e-mail address and I'll send the information provided to ChooChoo and Loco Bill.

My e-mail is:  jlsrails@aol.com

JD

New ChooChoo,

I sent you an extensive e-mail that explains using LEDs for J&S coaches.  Along with the description there are four photographs.

THE E-MAIL WAS BOUNCED AS NOT DELIVERABLE.  POSSIBLY DUE TO INCORRECT E-MAIL ADDRESS, OR MAYBE YOUR SPAM FILTER WOULD NOT ALLOW THE E-MAIL.

Could you send me a working e-mail address and I'll resend the information?

JD

Great News!

If you are a member of Large Scale on Line there are over twenty pictures of the new Forney along with the detailed listing of its features.

I've contacted my dealer and placed a pre-order for one of the inside frame versions.

Vic, too rich for your blood?  There's always the LGB Forney of questionable scale and lacking in meaningful detail.  Or, how about the little 1:24 scale version by HLW.  No detail to speak of but then you get what you pay for.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Rather than changing to track pickup for coach lights you might find it a better solution to change the lights to LEDs.  With LEDs the 9 volt battery life is greatly extended and you control the lights; not the track power.

JD

Gion,
Refer to the documentation supplied by Bachmann with the Connie.  Look at sheet G812X-IS004.  That will show you the wiring diagrams for both DC and DCC. 

From the diagram you should be able to trace the wires from the tender to the locomotive and the wires coming from the locomotive to the tender.

JD

The Baldwin Industrial 2-6-0 part numbers were 81696, 81697, 81698, 81699.  They are no longer in production.  Might find a dealer that still has one.  If there were more part numbers, Loco Bill can fill that in.



This is the Mogul with the Banta cab kit.  The kit is wood, laser cut, and came with coal boards for the tender.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

Ralph,
The third truck, under the tender, is not intended to pivot. Don't change it.

There should be a very slight amount of side-bearing, nothing more.

Since the tender is pulled by a drawbar there is no need for the truck to pivot.  In fact, if the truck did pivot it would be next to impossible to back the locomotive with a cut of cars.  The truck would derail.

Don't go by the supplied DVD. That Shay was a preproduction version and on the DVD the tender truck does pivot. Bachmann made a change and mounted the truck so it would not pivot on the production versions.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD