Dear All,

http://www.moloco.biz/html/gypsy_1.html

Interesting.  Apparently available as either narrow (3') gauge or standard gauge, both in 1:20.3.  (45mm and 70.64mm).

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Edit: removed troublesome rgs hobbies link

Dear Einar,

Are you sure it's a Williams?

Is it 3 rail ?

Is it O gauge?

What is the road number?

Is there an electrical cable running between the engine and tender?

I see some MTH, Lionel and K-line (all 3 rail O) equipment on the internet, but no Williams (or Williams by Bachmann).

Are there matching passenger cars?  What make/style are they?

Thanks. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

Dear KCS 1,

You might have put a kink in your track with the turnout. 

The Bachmann "Remote Switches" copy the footprint of the Atlas "Snap Switches" with its 1/3 curve piece attached.

Neither are not drop in replacements for an 18"R 30 degree curve, as the curved portion is moved up the straight portion by 1.5".   (Lay a curve on top of the turnout and you will see the extra 1.5" at the points end.) 

This shift must be compensated for on the rest of the layout by adding 1.5" to the other side (of the oval, eg).  This is pretty simple with "Snap Track", as they make 1.5" straights. 

It is not possible to make an EZ-Track piece that small, though. (2" is the lower limit). 

You could remove a 9" straight from the points end and add back in a 3" and a 4.5", which will compensate. (Do nothing to the other side.)

Part of turnout is 15"R?  Hmm.   One way to see it better is to make a template of an 18"R curve's rails and lay it on the turnout.  Lay a piece of paper on top of a curve piece and make a pencil rubbing of the top of the rails.  Cut along the lines for the template.  Make a 15" template too, if possible (15"+half gauge, 15"-half gauge).

Carefully watch the problem engines wheels as it traverses the turnout.  You might find something else derailing it.  (Loose points rail, out of spec wheel gauge, out of spec track gauge, out of spec guard rail gauge, unlevel frog, points moving away from stock rail, etc.)

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik
 

Greetings.

Could you please weigh in on the "ID my Train" by adventuredog in the "general discussion" forum.

Thanks.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Track radius is measured to the centerline between the rails.

Width of a circle of track is twice radius plus a track bed width. 

2R + TBW.  HO EZ-Track is very close to 2" wide.

18"x2+2"=38"

22"x2+2"=46"

26"x2+2"=54"

28"x2+2"=58"

A 4' table is 4x12" = 48"

A 5' table is 5x12" = 60"

If I had the room for 5', there would be no choice.  My table would be 5' wide.  If you like a particular 4x8 layout, you have the option of expanding it.

Ping-pong tables are 5' wide (x 9' long).  Used ones from the "thrifties" classifieds are pretty cheap. 

Remember that you need room for overhang on curves, so you can't run your track up against a rail, fence or wall.  An inch clearance on each side will do. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Sounds like you have some kind of Bachmann Big Hauler G scale train set. 

Can you post pictures, or a link to those pictures?

Pictures of everything in the set, if possible.

Did the set come in a display box?  Does it show an item number?

Most Bachmann G sets have a 5 digit item number (9xxxx) that is just to the right of the retractable plastic handle on the top of the display box.

There is a UP Buddy L set that is currently on sale, but it doesn't perfectly match the description that you gave.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

Dear RAM,

I think you've just defined (the border between) what is and is not an S curve. (It depends on rolling stock length.)

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Hi, T.O.M.

You wrote: "How is it (digital multimeter) used to check the continuity of EZ Track?"

Hopefully you can still take your track apart, ie, it's not glued down or buried in ballast. 

Since you are using DCC, you would set your meter to read AC volts, range 20 volts.   If it doesn't have a 20 volt range setting, choose the next higher voltage above 20 V.  If your meter comes with separate probe wires, plug the 2 probe wires into the meter jacks appropriate to measure AC volts. 

The idea is to have a single power source (DCC controller in your case) on one end of the track, and the load (DCC engine) on the other end.  To have only one source, you would temporarily unplug the wires from additional terminal re-railers.  Mark which side of the plug is "up" to maintain correct polarity when you plug them back in.  (This assumes they were properly polarized in the first place.)     

If you have a loop, break it by taking apart the track at one spot, either side of your (terminal re-railer) power feed.  Place the engine on the track on the other side of the break, which is now electrically "far from the controller". 

Turn your controller on.  Measure the voltage by touching the red probe to one rail of the terminal re-railer, and the black probe to the other rail.  You should read somewhere around 14 volts AC. 

Move the probes to the track under the DCC engine.  It should measure just a little less than what you read at the powered terminal re-railer, and be steady.   

If not, move the probes from the track under the engine back towards the controller, touching the 2 rails at each track piece.  If the voltage suddenly changes (higher or steadier), you have just jumped over the bad rail connector. 

To find which rail connector (north rail or south rail) is bad, probe the rails on each side of the north rail connector (red probe on one side, black on the other).  Repeat for the south rail.  The measurement across the good rail connector will read zero volts, the bad one something higher.

Turn off the contoller and fix the bad rail connection. 

New track shouldn't be corroded.  A VERY GENTLE squeeze on the top and bottom of a connector using small pliers should tighten it up.   

Repeat the process until all connections are fixed and you have steady power all along the line.  When making the later measurements, flex the next rail connectors (up the line towards the controller) a little by gently pressing on the track near the rail connectors. This will flush out intermittent connectors. 

Re-connect the track to the terminal re-railer (close the loop).  Re-connect the feeds to the other terminal re-railers, maintaining previous polarity.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear KCS 1,

The only thing that S curves have going for them is that they look elegant. 

However, as you have found out, they cause derailments, especially on cars with body mounted couplers.  Backing up through them is nearly impossible.   

Bye, bye, S curve.  We won't miss you.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik   

   

Dear All,

I'm not sure exactly how the "Frequently Asked Questions" section of this forum is supposed to work, (moderator only?) but Steve's detailed reply on minimum radius of the Fn3 Connie begs to be placed there.

How about a minimum radius (diameter?) thread for each engine type, plus a thread for spectrum rolling stock?   

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear All,

EZ-Track book author Chris Lane has been corresponding with me via e-mail on the subject of the 2" straights.

Chris explained a long time line where the 2" straights were not yet available when the concepts of the book were established.  The finished manuscript had to go through the "release of a new product" pipeline, in which time the new 90 degree crossing (with four 2" straights) became available.  A re-write would have even further delayed its long awaited release.

As far as a separate sale blister pack, anything can happen, but realize that it would have to be approved by Bachmann and its parent company Kader, then take some time to get through the "pipeline". 

They've heard you all and understand.

(End of explanation)

Hope this helps.

FT2"S

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

 

Len,

Thanks for the reply.  No demolition of trains?  You must have never seen the Addam's Family TV show.  I bet I could sell a double figure 8 to Gomez, Pugsly and Uncle Fester. 

GG Alex,

Your graphic cracks me up every time I see it.  Excellent work.  You really took the ball and ran with it.   

HGC,

Thanks for your interest and support.

Now if we can get every HO and On30 poster to sign off with FT2"S, we might get their attention.

Again, thanks.

Free the 2" Straights !!

Joe Satnik

 

Dear HTL,

How about some kind of pocket or slot on the facia that the controller would fit into?

How about a leather (or some other material) case with a loop for hanging on the back for the controller?

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear Len,

I know the Bach-Man was on our side a few years ago, though I know that often he's just the messenger.

"Why cut into the 90 degree crossing sales?" must be the reason given by the bean counters.   

The new layout book not even mentioning the 2" straights is a kick in the pants, though.  It's a critical piece for closing gaps.

Same problem exists with the G track 90 degree crossing.  The complete/uncut half straights that are included would be nice as a separate sale item.

Here's how to free up a dozen (12) of those 2" straights: 

Convince someone to buy the track and let you build them a "demolition derby" double figure eight layout using 22" and 26" curves.

It all fits perfectly together on a 123" by 54" area.  Recipe on request.

Alternatively, a double figure eight using 18" and 22" curves fits perfectly together on a 103" by 46" area. Recipe on request. 

This however, only frees up 4 of the 2" straights.  You can get four 2" straights just by tossing 1 crossing in the junk drawer. 

I suppose you could use the crossing itself in a hidden area as a 2" straight, since it is 2" long.

FT2"S !!!  (Keep your head up, it could happen some day !)

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Edit: added "Dear Len".  

Dear Brad,

Cutting the cable, or cutting and re-soldering the cable is probably more common than you think. 

If I recall correctly, your cable ends are very wide male plugs with small female pins.

To get around drilling huge holes in their control panel and train board, some will cut the cable, thread it through smaller holes in the control panel and train board, then solder it back together using shrink tubing for insulation. 

Another way around it is to remove the pins from the connector on one end of the cable, thread it through smaller holes, then slide each individual female pin onto its destination male pin. 

This assumes that the removal was destructive to the connector.  If you can remove the pins from the connector and re-install them in a non-destructive manner, more power to you.     

You could make adapter pins by forging the end of a solid piece of copper wire into a flat male pin, which would plug in to the end of your cable.  Connect the other end of the solid wire to your #56 or toggle. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik