Dear Doug,

I'm not sure it is 100 % compatible, but try this.

http://www.svrronline.com/Switches.html      (Scroll down)

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear Larry,

No need to cut off the EZ-Track's tab.  Assuming you have cork roadbed under your Atlas track, just remove some of the cork in the shape of the EZ-Track's tab with an Exacto knife. 

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear JT,

Aristo-Craft 11350,

if you remove the black blades from the Bachmann G tracks that touch the rerailer. 

To remove the blades, turn the Bachmann track over, and look for the bent up tabs cut from the rails near the center tie.  Gently bend the tabs up to match the profile of the rail, then slide the rail away from the blade.  When the rail clears the blade, lift the blade out. 

Save the blade for future use.  (I store mine under the tie, with a piece of black electrical tape wrapped around the tie.)

Slide the rail back and gently bend the rail tabs to hold it in place. 

You will need some other method to hold the tracks together, as the Bachmann plastic clips will not work with the Aristo rerailer.  I use 2 rubber bands per joint, though there is probably a more elegant way to do it. 

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear tac,

That would be below zero Celsius, not Fahrenheit, correct?

Joe 

Build a lamp resistance tester
Model Railroader, February 2002 page 88
Match headlight bulbs and resistors to DCC decoders
( COMMAND, CONTROL, DCC, DIGITAL, "KOSIC, BOB", LAMP, RESISTOR, TESTER, MR )

Dear CGLowry,

All Williams or Williams by Bachmann trains run on 3 rail O-Gauge (31" outer diameter) Lionel style track. (1.125" between the inside of the outer rails.) 

Some smaller wheelbase Williams models will run on O-27 curves.

Old Lionel "Standard" gauge/scale is much larger and incompatible with Williams.  See MTH for Standard gauge reproductions.     

The minimum radius FasTrack is larger than 31" outer diameter, so if both of your loco's center-rail pickups are working, it should traverse any FasTrack turnout with ease.

Although Williams recommends larger wattage transformers, I'm sure 80 watts is plenty to operate a small train on small curves without flying off the track.  (You would need more power for a long string of lit passenger cars.)  The CW 80 has both the horn/whistle (+DC bias) and the bell (-DC bias) buttons. 

I'm dissapointed that the CW 80 has SCR fired voltage (speed) control instead of pure AC, but that is modern cost savings for the manufacturer.  I assume the electronics in the Williams locos were designed to handle it.

The electronics in the Williams locos rectify the track AC power to DC to run the DC motors.  Compared to the old Lionel AC motors which "growl", the Williams motors and drivetrain are nearly silent. 

We are very satisfied with our Willaims Chessie GP-38.

What year or era were your Lionel locos made?

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik             

GG,

What scale is your friend's layout?  What type of track?

Joe Satnik

Dear spla13,

Are you sure red wheel bearing grease is plastic compatible?

Joe

Dear Maxxx,

If you are interested,  I have for sale an unopened, sealed in the box 2006 "Holiday Special" (4-6-0 Annie) Passenger Train and Trolley Set (90054). 

I also have a new, never-been-run (box opened for inspection only) matching "add-on" baggage and combine car set for sale. 

My e-bay name is "jgsat" (if you want to look up my feedback).

A Bachmann forum member bought an Annie-Trolly 90054 set directly from me (non-auction) last winter, and seemed pleased.  I am almost certain that he will allow me to use his name a reference, but I will check with him first. 

For more info:  joebarbATwwtDOTnet.

Thanks. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

Hey Stubbs,

I just thought of something:

My GP-38 box label says "True Blast II" sound.  That implies a second iteration.  Perhaps the first iteration "True Blast" sound is horn only.

What does your label say?

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

 

 

To follow up on what Hunt suggested:

Check the electrical connection between the each wheel and the motor: (DC power pack only.)

1. Turn your engine upside down in a padded cradle.

2. Turn the power pack on to a medium - low speed. 

3. Touch the one track wire from your power pack to any left wheel, the other track wire to any right wheel.  Try touching different wheels (left wire to a left wheel, right wire to a right wheel), until the the loco's wheels turn.   

4a. While keeping the right wire on the good right wheel, move the left wire to another left wheel.  If the motor doesn't run, you have found a bad left wheel pickup.  Repeat for the other left wheel.   

4b. While keeping the left wire on the good left wheel, move the right wire to another right wheel.  If the motor doesn't run, you have found a bad right wheel pickup.  Repeat for the other right wheel. 

Pickups are usually small metal "fingers" that wipe the back of the wheel.  Bend them until they touch, and apply a very small amount of conductive lube to the back of the wheel.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear Stubbs,

Sorry to hear that my suggestion didn't work.

I'll have to let 3rail (WBB board moderator-repair guru) take over on this one.

You will be in good hands. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik





 



 

Dear Stubbs,

It's been awhile since I ran one, but I think you have to hold the button down for a few seconds for the bell to kick in.  Once ringing, you should be able to let go of the button and it should stay ringing until you press the button down again.

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear b,

The Bachmann "Remote Switches" copy the footprint of the Atlas "Snap Switches" with its 1/3 curve piece attached.

Neither are not drop in replacements for an 18"R 30 degree curve, as the curved portion is moved up the straight portion by 1.5".   (Lay a curve on top of the turnout and you will see the extra 1.5" at the points end.)

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

Tony,

Does that mean fewer wheels picking up power?

(If so, previous count vs. new count, please.)

Thanks.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik