Dear Treno,

The auto reversing track will not help you in this case.

The insulated gap track will work if both rails are gapped.   

You will need another gap track piece for a total of 4 gaps per loop.  The gaps should be as close to the turnout as possible.

Hope this helps.

Joe Satnik

Dear Java,

Sounds like a nice set. 

Your symptoms are not normal. 

Have you lubed you loco with plastic compatible oils and grease? 

Labelle lubes are good.  I own #'s 102, 106 and 108. 

Bachmann lubes are good too, though it might take some searching to find them..

Could be a bad controller.  Measure the voltage at the track:

1.) with no engine and the controller to full.
2.) near the controller with the engine running.
3.) far away from the controller with the engine running.

You could try your loco on another layout with known good controller...

Let us know your results. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

Check the gauge of the wheels and the track with an NMRA gauge, or a caliper armed with HO specs from the nmra.org website. 

Dear Fridge,

There are differences between the Atlas HO and Bachmann EZ-Track HO pieces.  For example, you can remove a 10 degree-18"R (=1/3) curve from the Atlas 'snap switch'. You can't with the EZ-Track "remote switch".

http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=6634

http://www.rrtrack.com/html/bachmann_ez_ho.html

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear TB,

What 5 digit item number is your "basic track kit"?

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear bdgar12,

My guess is that the front truck got turned around somehow. 

Have you had the shell off the chassis?

Does the front truck turn around even with the shell on?

Do you have an Ohm-meter, or know someone else who has one?

All left wheels should be connected to each other (less than 1 ohm).

All right wheels should be connected to each other (less than 1 ohm).

You should read about 10 ohms between any right wheel and any left wheel. (Motor and front light resistance.)

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

RTC,

Contact me off-line about your track. 

joebarbATwwtDOTnet

Joe

RTC,

Thanks for the pics...worth a thousand words.

My guess is old Lionel, New Bright, or another lesser known brand. 

Anyone else have a guess as to the manufacturer of the old track?

How many old pieces, and of what type (straight, curve, turnout, etc.) do you own?

Hollow steel track, no matter what manufacturer, rusts, therefore cannot be used outside.

Bachmann's G track follows LGB's convention of rail connector on the left (as shown in your picture).  Your old track is the opposite of that.  You must remove the black pin from the Bachmann G track to mate with solid rail track, such as LGB or Aristo-Craft.

You really only have 2 choices:
1. Use your old track for a separate layout or static dislpay.
2. Fashion your own adapter(s). 

Bachmann G track Blade (pin) removal:

Turn the Bachmann track over, and look for the bent up tabs cut from the rails near the center tie.  Gently bend the tabs up to match the profile of the rail, then slide the rail away from the blade.  When the rail clears the blade, lift the blade out. 

Save the blade for future use.  (I store mine under the tie, with a piece of black electrical tape wrapped around the tie.)

Slide the rail back and gently bend the rail tabs to hold it in place. 

You will need some other method to hold the track sections together, as the Bachmann plastic clips will not work with other brands .  I have used 2 rubber bands per joint wrapped around the end ties, though there is probably a more elegant way to do it. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,   

Joe Satnik

Dear EM,

Another disadvantage to powering a frog: Operator Error.

If you approach from the 2 track end and the turnout is in the wrong position (bashing? or slamming? through), you will cause and electrical short to the powered frog.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear rtc,

Are you talking about Large Scale - Big Hauler "G" track?  What scale/brand/style of track are you trying to connect to?

Bachmann Metal G track came out about 1990. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear EM,

You are asking for a "power routing" turnout.  The 283-284's are not. 

You would need to isolate one rail on both ends of your siding with insulative rail joiners (Atlas #55), and turn the power on and off with a Single Pole-Single Throw (SPST) electrical switch between that insulated rail and the power source for that rail. 

An Atlas #205 selector switch has three SPST electrical switches, (you would use one, the other two would be spares) or you could just buy a single SPST switch from Radio Shack or other source of electrical parts.  (Auto parts stores have them, too.)

I hate to push Atlas products too much on the Bachmann board, but a great book to have is their #12 "The Complete Atlas Wiring Book" available at most hobby shops.

|
|
|\
l  \x Insulative rail joiner here - right rail
l   \
l    \
l     l
l     l<--connection to right rail --<-----SPST----<--power source for right rail
l     l
l     l
l    /
l   /
l  /x  I.R.J. here- right rail
|/
|
|

A frog is the spot on the turnout where the rails cross.  Most are insulative, some are metal, as in the case of your 283-284 turnouts. 

Some hobbyists will power the frog if they have short wheelbase locos, which can lose power over a long frog, or lose power if they have faulty electrical pickup on the rest of the wheels on that side of the loco. 

If you power the metal frog, (not recommended for beginners), you would need a SPDT (Single Pole - Double Throw) switch connected with your throwout mechanism.  Whenever the turnout moves its point rails, the SPDT switch MUST be thrown along with it (and in the proper direction) or electrical shorts will occur at the frog.  Tortoise turnout motors have those switches built in. 

Again, I recommend the "ladder" configuration from my above post.  This avoids "S" curves that raise havoc. 

If you must run the parallel siding with the built in "S" curves, lengthen the straight (between the turnout and the curve that takes you back to parallel with the main) to at least as long as your longest car or loco.  This may require a wider shelf on that side of the room. 

Math: Assume 12" longest car or loco.  #6 turnout moves 6 down the track and 1 sideways.  (6:1)  12" / 6 = 2".   So, you would add 2" width between the main and the siding to get 12 more inches of straight between the turnout and the curve back to parallel.  Assuming 2" previous spacing, +2" = 4" centerline to centerline spacing between main and siding. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik     

Dear NewYorkCentralgirl, 

Can you tell us the dimensions of the running surface on your baby grand ?

Thanks.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear Derek,

The latest EZ-Track layout book was released Jan. or Feb. 08, which caused a flurry of posts regarding the 2" straight.

Do a board search on "layout book" or its author "Chris Lane".   

Things have quieted down since, but we still all wish for the separate sale, and when I can think of it, sign off my posts:

'Free the 2" Straights ! (FT2"S !)'

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

Try asking on the Large Scale Central forum.

A good bunch of knowledgable folks over there.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Dear Rob,

The ultimate uncoupler
Model Railroader, January 2000 page 109
Build a hidden electromagnetic uncoupler
( ELECTROMAGNETIC, KADEE, "MOORE, BILLY WAYNE",  SCRATCHBUILD, UNCOUPLER, CONSTRUCTION, N, MR )

Some model train clubs keep a library of old MR mags.  Our (statewide) public library (system) has them.

http://www.aglasshalffull.org/article-uncouplers.html

Or, google "electromagnetic uncouplers".

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik