Tony,

If its running the wrong direction on first hook up, couldn't you just throw the NMRA/LS switch? or is that just hooked into the track power circuit?

Just curious,
Brian

The C-16's are very nice locos (I have two). They are quite a bit smaller than the ten wheeler because the C-16 was a small loco and it is only 1:24 scale (compared to the 1:22.5 of the 4-6-0). It will pull a couple more cars than the 4-6-0 and over all quality is just better (like Spectrum locos). The C-16 with the new stronger drive train and smokers will be out in a few months and I would hold off any purchases until then. You can see the preproduction units on the aristo website front page (scroll down to near the bottom).



-Brian

Its possible they did not put a smoke unit in this model. Running all those "purty lites" on the sides used up all the extra juice  . I thought it was rather "brave"  to put smoke fluid in something unsure of where its going. I think the Bach-Man needs to chime in on this one.

-Brian

There might be a switch next to where you plugged the wires in on the loco backhead. Also on the bottom of the tender there will be a volume adjustment.

-Brian

Sounds dead to me. Could be a bad switch, broken connection or dead motor. Send it back!

-Brian

What is this newsletter you speak of, Jon?

-Brian

I soldered my wire directly to the inside part of the rail on a section of track. Works great.

-Brian

No problem. Double heading is great fun. Run both at the same time to see if one is a bit faster. If one is put that one in front. You will need to replace the dummy coupler on the front of the back loco with a working one. That's about it!

-Brian

If you have a Big Hauler train set, its most likely the transformer (power supply) is overheating. They are known to do this. LGB/Bridgewerks makes a 3 amp and Crest/AristoCraft makes a 3.5 amp power supply that would make a good replacement. There are numerous larger power supplies available too.

-Brian

You can also find these parts on eBay frequently.

-Brian

1.  I am running 2 BigHauler locomotives of 4-6-0.  I start them at opposite distances but the one loco runs faster and always catches up after several runs and pushes the caboose off track.  Is there any to control or equalize the speed?

If you have different versions of the big hauler, the gearing could be different accounting for the speed difference. You could try adding a few more cars (or weight in the cars) to slow down the faster one.

2.   Is there any way to turn off a locomotive while it is sitting on a siding while the other loco is operating?

You would have to install your own switch. Many other locos have this feature built in.

3.   From my old HO days of 40 years ago, I could zone out portions of the track such as sidings or turn outs.  Can that be done with this scale and if so how do you insulate out at the switches or a section of track?

Yes, I have this very thing on my layout. I have a long passing siding where I can park one train and run the other. One rail on each siding (the same side) is isolated with an insulating rail clamp (Hillmann or Split Jaw). The power to that rail is run through a single pole double throw center off switch (SPDT C/O). That way I can supply power to either or neither isolated rail. If you are using Bachmann track you may be out of luck, as I don't think they make insulating joiners and such.

Or to make things simpler, should I look into DCC and how hard is it to convert these "older" locomotives and what process do you recommend if so?

I have not seen DCC work well consistently in large scale, particularly outdoors. Battery/RC conversion is a much better option in my opinion.

-Brian

oh boy! the infamous hybrid drive!



-Brian

If your loco is the 4-6-0 (front wheels- middle driver wheels-back wheels) this is a common problem. Bill suggested some good things to check except i would keep the grade to 3% at a maximum with this loco.
Bad track work is usually the main culprit. Bachmann track being hollow can easily be bent out of shape. Some have fixed the pilot truck problems by adding weights or a stiffer spring - http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html#derailments

-Brian