Be careful to select a decoder rated for typical Large Scale voltages (27 volts DCC rating is the preferred rating)

To overcome the short wheelbase electrical problems I use a Lenz Gold Maxi decoder with a internal power module.

Some video clips are at

http://www.tttrains.com/dcc/hybriddrive/example_video_clips.htm

Stan

Great tutorial!

My only change would be to install the brake rigging and bottom plates BEFORE you attach the gear box.  To be this was a lot easier as the drive axle was held in place.

Stan

There are actually two sets of springs for each axle. One set above the ball bearing block and one set for the pickups.  I believe that these springs are actually identical springs so the downward force is shared equally between these two sets of springs.

I have noticed no difference in force of the springs above the ball bearing block after many years of service.  I use DCC track power and have observed that the electrical pickup springs can loose their spring force over time likely due to the heat of the electrical current going through the springs.  AI replaced all the electrical pickup springs with stainless steel springs which hold up better to the current.

Stan

PS  Barry's comment about balancing the drivers is a very good suggestion and works well

Quote from: James The Red Engine on December 05, 2010, 01:01:14 PM
Dear Mr. the Bach-man,
Just recently I received the Durango And Silverton Large scale set.  Now I must say this is a great model, but I have one problem with it.  When I run the locomotive with Thomas and Percy it runs backwards.  There's a direction behind the smokebox door, but it's missing.  Any help would really be appreciated.

-James

Your Durango and SIlverton 4-6-0 should have a switch behind the smokebox door.  In one position it says LS and in the other position it says NMRA.  SImply move the switch to the NMRA position and all should be fine.

Stan Ames

How do you remove the cylinder assembly from the side of a 2 truck shay.

Stan

A good site for desiging and building trestles is

http://members.cox.net/sn3nut/trestles%20part%201.htm

We purched a pinner and use stainless steel pins.  Use it along with Titebond 3 to build our wood bridges.

We build Jigs as we need them.

Works very well.

Stan Ames

While different brands of couplers do couple together it is not as smooth as it perhaps could be.  If you are going to use Kadees on the cars I would recommend installing an 830 on the tender.

I have several 2-8-0s and all have the 830.  It does requiring some filing to get the correct height for the new poclet but it is not all that difficult an installation to perform.

Stan Ames

Perhaps I can help.

If you need an  extra wire from the tender to the locomotive I would recommend using one of the triggers for the chuff.

The K27 has a sensor in each cylinder to provide you a choice for  chuffs of either 2 or 4 chuffs per revolution

The selection is in the tender which requires the output for both sensors to go to the tender.  If you want 4 chuffs and also one extra wire simply make the chuff connection in the locomotive which will free up one of the chuff wires.

Decoder + and decoder ground are also easy to get to in the locomotive.

Hope that helps.

Stan Ames

I do not have the 2-6-0 but have most of the other Bachmann Large Scale locomotives.  From a Lenz decoder standpoint I would recommend a Gold maxi and it dirty track is a problem then a Power 3 module.

Installation is rather simple.  The hard part is removing the boiler to get to the motor.

Track input goes to the decoder and motor output to the motor.

You likely can have several of these relatively low current locomotives operating on a 5 amp system.  If you need more power piggyback a LV102 to gain up to 10 amps.

Stan Ames

Norman

Perhaps I can expain the electronics.  They are actually rather simple.

The Forney is designed to operate well on DC, DCC, and RC systems.

Most of the electronics are for the LEDs.  The electrtonics are designed  to operate the LEDs well at very low voltages found in DC (such as the ability for the lights to go on before the locomotive moves) and to to allow the LEDs to operate well at DCC voltages (typically 20-24 volts).

Each LED is controled by a simple current regulation which requires several components per controlable LED.  Other componetnts regulate the current for the smoke unit and for the optos for the chuff.  One interesting side is that the smoke unit is turned on and off by a very small current load which allows the electonics forn in most DCC decoders to function normally.

Hope that Helps

Stan Ames

Barry

I am confused.

On my railroad I use several geared drive boxes with a large reduction and a lot of power that I purchase from Granger.  I use one to turn my turntable. The final gear is metal and the gear on the motor shaft is metal.  All the other reduction gears are some form of plastic.  These gear boxes are in wide spread commercial use (outside model railroading).

By far the greatest force is between the metal gear and the axle it turns.

What confuses me is why would a commercial company who is in the business of making such gear boxes make this selection if it is an inferior design.

I have no expertise in this area so just trying to enhance my knowledge base.

Stan Ames

Two issues lets take them one at a time.  Your system puts out 24VDCC. The 3 truck Shay shuts down at about 20-21 volts DCC.

Solution either lower your MTS voltage or lower the voltage inside the locomotive.

The easiest solution is to use rectifiers.  Atlas showed how to do this with their system which is the same concept
http://www.atlasrr.com/voltage.htm
I tend to place the rectifiers between the power supply and the system but it works equally well in both locations. Figure about a volt per rectifier so use 4 as in the diagram

The second problem is functions..The 3 truck shay supports lots of functions (Bell Whistle...)  LGB used two names parallel and serial to describe their system.  If you have a parallel system then no problem.  If you have a serial system, the system only supports F0 and F1 so your function choice will be very limited.

Hope that Helps

Stan Ames

The current version of the revolution asumes that DC power is provided by the locomotive.  The K27 assumes that DC power is provided by the device in the socket. 

In addition the revolution only uses the pins on the first set of pins (J1) while the K27 uses pins on both sets of pons (j1 and J2).

These differences have no effect on motor control but does effect lighting and sound control.

To get around this you will likely have to install a simple rectifier in the K27 and also to use the extra functions you will need to hook them up to the revolution manually.

Hope that helps.

Stan Ames

Northwest shortline has a metal replacement gear for about $12.

I have six 2-8-0 and only one of the newest ones got broken gear shortly after being put in service. (knock on wood)

Stan

Barry

The flywheel greatly improves the back emf characteristics of the motor.  If you are looking for fine motor control it is a very iportant feature.

Stan Ames