I just use Scotch 2-sided tape. The package says 'permanent', but a bit of Goo-Gone loosens the sticky stuff to allow removal.

Len

In case you missed my answer in the 'General Discussion' area.

This is the only 'N' 0-6-0/2-6-2 drawbar that appears to be currently available:
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70_115&products_id=313

The number it mentions for the old style, with seperate contact strips, comes back as not found.

Len

This is the only 'N' 0-6-0/2-6-2 drawbar that appears to be currently available:
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70_115&products_id=313

The number it mentions for the old style, with seperate contact strips, comes back as not found.

Len

Unless you can find one someone made on their own somewhere on-line, there are no "official" wiring diagrams of Bachmann locos. Unfortunately.

Len

One nice thing about the NCE Power Cab 'trainman' mentioned is the available add on throttle is identical to the original throttle. So there is no learning curve for a different button layout you run into with certain other systems.

Len

Quote from: 4311wade on August 20, 2023, 08:08:27 PMTeam,
How many linear feet of HO track can I run before I need a 5 amp booster? Can running a booster on too little track damage my layouts Locos or switches?

It's not how many feet of track you have that determines if you need a booster or not, it has more to do with how much current the locomtives on that track are drawing.

If you only have one locomotive, just running power feeders from your current power supply to points where it tends to slow down is all you need to do. As you add additional locomotives, and lighted cars, the current pulled from your power supply goes up. When that current draw starts getting near the power rating of your power supply, that's when you need to look at adding a booster.

Len

I've had some success drilling out the rivets on older Mantua equipment and replacing them with screws and nuts. I super-glue the nut inside the unit, then run the screw in from outside.

Len

Sounds like the drive shaft to that truck may be out of place. Only way to be sure is to pop the top and look.

Len

The only reason I know is back when I had my repair shop, a customer brought in a home built power cord he'd made to get a longer reach. He said didn't work, but the set cord did. He wired it 'tip' and 'ring', figuring the 'sleeve' wasn't used. I'd never thought about it before, so I got out the ohm meter and checked a standard power cord and discovered nothing was connected to the plug's 'tip', just the 'ring' and 'sleeve'. So I rewired his plug that way and when he got home he called to say it worked fine now.

Once I knew that, I bought a handful of ministereo plugs and started a sideline selling power cords to plug into Bachmann controllers, with open ends to connect to other styles of track.

Len

I suspect removing the shell is similar process to what's shown here for installing a decoder in 'Thomas'. Only you can stop when you expose the gears enough for some fresh lube.

Len

The 'tip' connector is open to prevent a short as the plug is inserted in the jack. The wires to the controller are connected to the 'ring' and 'sleeve' of the plug.

Len

Well, at least you know the controllers are ok.

Len

Do you have the same problem if the controllers are connected directly to the track, without going through the booster? If so, the simplest solution would be to wire DPDT reversing switches into the track leads from those controllers.

Len

One, or more, of the Caboose Industries ground throws should work. You may have to drill a hole in the manual throw lever on the EZ-Track to connect it. And you'll need to elevate the ground throw on some cork, wood scrap, or whatever, to match the height of the EZ-Track roadbed.

You can see what they have available here:
https://www.cabooseind.com/

Len

The 'Rigid' drill advertising structure looks too modern for the rest of the layout.

Len