Ted,

Lets hope soonseeum proves to be correct!  Hope to meet you in Chama in August!

Bill

Riderdan

You are most welcome, and I very much appreciate your support!  It is the thanks I get from guys like you that keeps me going even tho I am getting weary at 81 years old. 

Bill

Hi, Riderdan,

Thank you for the great reminder.  This problem happens more frequently than you might expect.  For more serious problems I have posted some sound diagnosis tips in the following link:

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,30394.msg224039.html#msg224039 

Scroll down to about mid point and you will see it.  On my next update I will add you tip in a more strongly worded way!

Keep having fun, and again thanks again!

Loco Bill

With all due respect to Ted and all I suggest "Noseeum"



Old Loco Bill

Hi Guys,

The version six 4-6-0 style front truck works fine on the old chassis.  No weight needed.  Just be sure the new truck is positioned just like the old truck, before you mark the location to drill the hole for the screw.  Fred's fix is a great idea as well.  The older front truck works well for me. I just use white lithium grease on the slot, and I carefully push the wires away from the slot and ensure they do not interfere with the spring.  I admit that I do keep my track in good shape, because rough track often causes trouble with rolling stock as well, especially around switches. 

Here is a link to the Version Six new generation pilot truck:

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_623&products_id=8545&zenid=lupt4oibphdqil1h7pf70nll54

BTW just click on the image to enlarge it.


At $34 Plus for the new truck not including shipping seems kind of steep to me.  You might want to try Fred's method first.
Keep having fun!

Loco Bill

Thanks, Bach-man,

Appreciate the update.

Loco Bill

You are very welcome, but we really owe Ted.  I had totally forgotten that old problem, if it had not been for Ted, I would still be floundering around trying to figure it out.

So a Big Thanks to Ted for getting us on the right track ( pun  intended!!!)  after we went down the wrong branch.

All the best to you and Ted

Bill

Ted is right about about similar problems.  Up till today I wasn't able to find anything at all in the forum history, so I went all the way back to 2007 and found this:

"What is happening is the sound drum contacts (the strips on the drum) have screws at the ends holding the strips to the plastic drum. The Mk. IV and later 4-6-0 the axle bushings are LARGE, and the screwheads occasionally contact the bushing, which is one side of track power.. As the axle moves from side to side, the gap closes and you get, the "fart" effect.

The cure is to put a nylon washer between the back of the drive wheel and the brass bushing. The proper way to do this is by removing the wheels, but I've been successful on may occasions by just cutting one side of the washer and "persuading" it over the axle with some needle nose pliers.

I believe the original problem and cure was posted on the Phoenix Sound web site, but I don't know if it's still there.

I just checked and it's here and even includes picture of the process I just described and the size of the washer needed.

http://www.phoenixsound.com/pdf/Bach10W.pdf  (page 3)"

If you click on the link it will download a PDF. scroll to the bottom where you will find the fix they recommend, just disregard all the info about installing a Phoenix System. 

Bill

Well that video is very interesting, but I am at a loss to figure it out, except for the old battery.

Right now the only thing I can think of is to try a brand new 9Volt battery, since yours is very old.  When you take it out look for corrosion on the terminals. and on the tabs the battery rests on, and see if they are clean.  Since the burp occurs more frequently the longer you run it then I definitely suspect that the battery may be getting low. 

Bill

Greg,

I have no inside info, other than what i can get by phoning in and nagging.  I have never tried calling about speakers, so all I have is what I read in the product description.  My personal opinion is that there is likely only one speaker and the description is not correct.  Might be nice to have stereo sound from two speakers , 

Bill

Hi Doyle,

The best way to check wheel sets is to use a wheel gauge.  Several companies make them.  In a pinch you could check the wheel sets by removing them from the car and checking them against the wheels on the pilot truck of one of your locomotives.  I also roll them down the track to see if they wobble.  I only lube the axle ends with a tiny drop of lite plastic compatible oil.  On my layout plastic wheels pick up dirt and crud so I occasionally clean them.  I also have had some show wear on the tread and had to replace them. I am mostly using metal wheels, but prices are way up on them, so I live with them. One guy I know seems to have success using one metal wheel and one plastic wheel on each truck.  He puts the metal wheels on the coupler end of each truck.  Seems to be very happy with it, but I have not tried it myself yet.  I'm guessing most of your cars are from before 2000, because cars made after that have the metal wheels.  If you run a lot you may have a wear problem on the flanges,  you could try reversing the wheel sets and see if that helps.   If you have any extra new plastic wheel sets, you can try swapping them out on one of the problem cars and see if that helps.

Hope one of these ideas will help you.  Anyone out there with good ideas please post them and help Doyle if you can.

Loco Bill

thanks Greg,

Typo is fixed

Bill

Greg,

In the description the word "speakers" is used not speaker.  Also the description says "DCC & Sound Ready"  so no onboard decoder,buyer buys what they want.

Bill

Greg,

It is a Big Hauler 4-6-0 with the Bachmann stock simple sound board in the tender,  no decoder.  Right now all I can think of is there could be an intermittent short, or a dirty chuff sensor on the back driver.  The sound described is what I hear when I test the sound by unplugging the chuff sensor and shorting out the board to see if the sound board works.   I would be sure is was a short, but for the fact that the strange sound is occurring every 15 seconds.

Hi Mdh8,

This is a tough one to diagnose without being there.  So is there any speed when the sound does not occur, like very slow, or full throttle??  If it occurs at the very slowest speed, does the sound take longer to happen?

Let me know and we will go from there.

Loco Bill

Hi All,

As of about 10 days ago, I asked and was told that they have still not arrived, due to one problem or another, and that they will post pictures when they can. First there was a problem getting the motors,  after that was resolved, a new problem came up related to getting them here from China, that is all I know!

I am going to forget that they are even making them till they post an   actual picture and advise it can be ordered.

Happy New Year!

Cheers & Beers,
Bill