I may have figured out the joining of the front engine to the loco.  My guess will be, once I find the tiny screw to go with the feeder screw, will be to connect the horizontal bar screw last.  The whole thing "should" hook together nicely once I hook in the bar screw to finish it off.  At least now I know WHAT the original problem was, WHY I couldn't find it, and HOW to get it back on the track.  Does anyone have a clue as to what screw I might be searching for.  It's extremely tiny and threads into another tiny threaded screw?  HOseeker's Instruction sheets just don't show this piece.  Hopefully someone's seen something similar in their years of making these trains sing like canaries.  I'll be off to search myself.  Thanks as always for the help!

Thank you Doneldon.  I'll try to get better with the terminology as I get these trains running again.

Ok, I'm hoping I've shown everything in the pics provided.

http://s40.photobucket.com/user/riff099/media/4884assemblyissue_zps9dcfd994.jpg.html

First is the tiny feeder screw I was mentioning and then it with the assembly connection to the front wheels (Part #55).  Then I showed it as it was connected when I first examined it.  Then I'm showing the plate (connected to the engine's bottom) and how it somehow needs to get connected to the wheel assembly.  I tried to show how thin the plate is also, and how it "should" connect together when righted.  Finally I tried to get an idea of how it should look when its all together correctly showing the gear bracket connected to the motor that turns that set of wheels.  I guess I'm trying to figure out, by showing all this, is if someone knows what screw I need for that feeder screw, so that I can connect the plate to the wheel assembly.  Then the real trick is figuring out how to screw the plate back into the bottom of the engine.  Yes the other screw and washer is what I need to make it happen but once the plate is on the wheel assembly, I'll have next to no room to screw in the other part of the plate.  Oh the headache.  But I guess if someone can help me figure out just the screw part number for that feeder screw, then that's one step closer.  Thanks for following my drama skit here...

You may be correct.  I'm trying my best to find the correct lingo when describing these issues.  I guess I'm a tad bit off.  My apologies.  This could be why I haven't heard anything from other forums, but at least you folks seem to try and help out regardless.  TY!

Yes regarding the front eight wheels of the four-EIGHT-eight-four.  I have no idea what to officially call them now (front engine seems odd, but the cylinders, rods and drivers definitely is what I'm talking about).  You nailed my description exactly though.  Part #31 (or its two halves) or Part #55 where the horizontal screw hold one half of Part #31.  The other half sits connected to the underside of the engine exactly where the two half pieces connect.  I wish I could show you though but neither piece has a thread-able feature.  I will attempt a picture of Part #31; how it looked when I first examined it, and how it just doesn't seem to hook up at all.

Finally nice to get a reply as there still nothing from the other forum.  Thank You Jonathan.  I love this forum!!

The only reason I selected the diagram picture was that it showed a bigger view of where the connection is to the body of the engine.  From this diagram and what I see in front of me with the under side of the Big Boy with the front truck removed, that last picture definitely shows where I need to focus my attention on.

http://hoseeker.net/AHMRivarossiassembly/ahm4884bigboyinstr1971page3.jpg

Now with the above picture I believe I need to focus on parts 31, 32, 33 and get them to attach to parts 54, and the front truck base itself which is part 55.  Again that's what it appears.  They talk of a front truck bracket which is part 31, but on my engine this part is separate pieces.  There is no indication that this piece broke in any way, but still they are two pieces where the spec sheet shows it as one.  Thus my serious confusion.  Again, I may be way off, and again there is no where to screw down into the front truck from those bracket pieces.  Just so confused.  I'll check for this 2-56 piece and see where it takes me.  Thanks again Jonathan.

Hello gents...

I hope I can ask a non-Bachmann question here.  The Model Railroader forum isn't offering any replies, and you folks always seem very helpful.

I'm having no luck getting any help or advice with my Rivarossi Big Boy.  I "believe" it's an older engine from the late 60's or early 70's.  It's a all black engine with the number is 4005, and from all the sites that I've searched for info on this unit, I saw one that put it's manufacturing date in the stated dates above.  The information sheets at HOseeker were great to view, but it is extremely difficult to understand which parts are required to get this engine put together again.

We purchased it online about 3 years ago.  It was slow but ran pretty well (knowing now it's age and possible mileage).  We had to put it away back then as the front trucks had come loose front the underside of the engine.  I searched the entire track looking for any pieces that may have come off the engine, but found nothing.  I figured it was something inside the engine itself and would check on it later.

Well, I recently unpacked the engine to try to get its issue figured out.  It seemed like a screw or whatever either broke or just un-screwed itself from the back part of the front truck.  I think what I need to figure out is how to re-attach the "front truck bracket".  There seems to be no screw for it or nothing to screw INTO.  I know this is the issue with the front truck drooping down, but I have no idea how to get it back together.  The picture below shows the side of the engine and how the front truck attaches to the engine, but it's like it requires a magnet (kidding) or something to keep it attached.  Please look above the fourth wheel of the front truck and notice how it's attached the the engine underside.  Well I'm lost because I don't know how to get it looking that way again.  Attach a screw INTO the engine OR from the engine bottomside INTO the front truck?? Again there seems to be no catch in order to insert a screw either way.  I'm about to just crazy glue thing and hope for the best (kidding again..........sort of).  I'm just looking for a bit of advice here.  Thanks again for any help!!

Here's the sketch of the side of the engine:  http://hoseeker.net/AHMRivarossiassembly/ahm4884bigboyinstr1971page6.jpg

So very true, Doneldon!   

It's good to know the Atlas switches act similar to the e-z track switches.  I guess that limited that choice.  I do have one #6 Bachmann turnout, as I did purchase it for specifically for the J.  I have yet to really use it though until I figured out the derail issue in general.  At least the darn thing turns right without any current issues.  Next is actually putting on the #6 and seeing how she does.  Step by step...

I appreciate you sharing that.  I've been using e-z track mainly because we tend to switch up our setups every week or two, and yes, the 22" e-z track hasn't been without it's issues; or the 18".  I'm pretty sure e-z track doesn't have a 24" corner to try, and our area to put the tracks down is limited to about 8 1/5' x 5'.  I'm not sure a 26" radius will fit in those constraints, so I'm thinking of trying Atlas True-Track or Kato roadbed track (forget it's name).  I'm sure they have a 24" radius to try and I hear their switches are more reliable, as I have quite a few rolling stock cars that do NOT like the e-z track switches, even when I switch at seriously slow speed.  Most of my rolling stock are Bachmann Silver Series cars, or Athearn Blue Box.  They are nice cars and all 'should' make the switch easily, but for some reason some don't.  Especially the 50' All-Door box cars.  They're beautiful but just hate switching track at any speed.  So the plan is for anything slightly bigger than 22" and nice switches that actually get the job done without worry.

My apologies Doneldon.  I should have worded that better.  I pictured the loop you described so well and was only mad at myself for attempting it without clarification.  I was so sure I knew what you were aiming at, but just became more frustrated when it wasn't happening.  Thus Plan B.  The nice thing is at least the darn thing is actually running, and the smile on my son's face made it all worth while.  So no worries at all.  Thank you for the help, and helping so many others!

This is for Doneldon and who else may have tried his suggestion of the vertical loop between the loco and tender.  Well, I tried it and it looks awful compared to how I perceived you explaining it.  I now looks more like my 3 year old's attempt at tying a shoe lace. And the worse part is I can't seem to undo it as it is incredibly tangled now.  I've had to go with plan B and twist the wires and try ti flatten then somewhat.  Also in order to completely clear the issue of interfering with the coupler loop,  I've got the twisted wire now going underneath the coupler connection to the tender and up before the front wheels on the tender.  There was just enough wire length to allow the 8 pin connector to hook back up.  It seems to work turning right, but turning left is a complete new nightmare.  I may be stuck keeping this engine turning right in order to keep using, BUT at least I am finally able to use it.  It's a beautiful sight to see it run with it's tenders and passenger cars especially with the lights off.  Of course this trial run with without the e-z track switches, which a lot of the engines seem to have issues with, and I'm not just talking about switching track with them.  Just crossing over them can cause the entire set to trip something and restart and engines whose sound was muted.  I've heard good things about Kato road bed switches not causing this, or even Atlas True-Track, so I may go that way in the future.  We'll see how the J likes the switches as the next test.

Read about Photo Bucket.  Here goes nothing:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/riff099/dcc_j_front_zpsb542449e.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/riff099/dcc_j_back_zpse4849689.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/riff099/dcc_j_wiring_zpsb8e53b3c.jpg

Hopefully the images show the entire train as I wish it to run, as well as the wiring issue I need to deal with.

No can do with pictures as it says the "upload folder is full".  Strange as I haven't been on here in a while and I can't find an upload folder anywhere.  The file is 119 Kb.

Hi Striker...thanks for your reply.

I actually DID purchase a four car Spectrum heavyweight N&W passenger set to work with the J so that it looked more like the real deal, but again we've had very little time to try them out with all the issues with that loco and tender.  To see them on the track, we've had them work with our Spectrum DCC sound USRA N&W Heavy mountain 4-8-2.  That engine had been a godsend in every way that the J hasn't been.  It'll run with any number of cars on ANY corner track (or at least with our 18's).  That was one purchase I'll never regret.  The passenger cars are reddish brown and lighted (very cool with the lights off).  Oh to see them run with the J (in a perfect world).  Sorry to ramble.  Striker, to answer your question, I purchased the DCC J as a separate loco and tender.  I later added a Spectrum N&W Water tender as well, but again with very little running time.  I'm going to try to upload a picture or two.  The main thing is to notice the spacing between the engine and tender related to the rest of the train.  It's like night and day.  I'm going to show the poor wiring I'm working with as well.  It's quite loose and I won't try to run the train again until I rectify that.  I may hold off on the "glue" suggestion until I try just tying the wires first.  Thanks again!

Thanks Gentlemen...

I truly appreciate ANY advice in getting this beautiful engine to actually work for us.  As it is, the wiring does appear to be a bit of a mess as I've kept the wires loose after lengthening them somewhat.  I'll look into the vertical loop suggestion before I order the 26" corner track, as 24's don't appear available with Bachmann.  I'm not sure how much leeway I have with the wiring to create the loop, but again I'm game to try anything to getting this engine around the track and making our son happy.  I'll keep reporting back each circumstance.

Best regards,

Bruce
riff99

The are the coupler parts I'm having issues with:

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_68_89&products_id=713

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=714

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=715

I'd love to know what the other type of coupler assembly there is.