You're forgetting the Japanese. @ 1:150

If your using the trains in North America, then no problems.
Your transformer takes care of that for you.
The power requirements remain the same across the board (globe).
It's the mains supply that differs.

QuoteN is a international standard, exept GB.

Not sure what is trying to be conveyed here?
Power requirement?
Gauge?
Scale?

QuoteDid some searching on youtube and a number of people have demonstrated success for letter removal from Athearn engines by using MICROSOL.  Has anyone tried this with Bachmann steams with success?  Thank you.

I have used this method on about half dozen Bachmann Steam lokies and their tenders.
It works just as you see on the Youtube videos with both the white and gold inks.
Very quick and efficient.
It has become my method of choice.

Have not tried the ELO, so can't comment on which is a superior method/product.

Good luck

Found it;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbSmoUH1Cqk

Hi ragman,

First, check both your wheelsets and the track to be sure everything is in gauge.
Then, put a straight edge over the frog in both the straight and diverging routes along the length of the top of the railhead.
Then do it again, this time crossing the width of the turnout over the frog and guard rails and wing rails.
Everything level?
It may be possible a wheel is dropping into the frog, check that too.
Get your eyes down low on it, and run slow and see what exactly is happening and where.

Good luck

Storage conditions make all the difference.

I don't apply fresh lubrication without first removing all the old stuff.
My weapon of choice is CRC "QD Contact Cleaner" #02130
I blast it off using the straw.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-QD-Electronic-Parts-Cleaner/21489084

Good luck

Balance it.

If memory serves, Bachmann does not make a single straight section 1.875 in length.
They do however, make a .750 section and a 1.125 section both available in the Assorted Short Connector Sections pack p/n 44899.

http://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=265_422&products_id=2802

Good luck

It's not that quick and easy at first but soon becomes so.
First, have you decided on color temperature? (Daylight, bright white, cool white, warm white, etc.).
Then, have you decided on the LED's you are going to use?
What is rating of said LED? Forward Voltage and current (amp) draw?
Where are you pulling power from? The trucks or frame, or the board (the voltage will be different, the board already has a resistor for the light.)
The brightness (intensity) is directly related to the resistor you will need. Buy several values to try, up to 1k.

You will wire the LED and resistor in series to the anode side of the LED.

What you'll need to accomplish this;
Time, patience.
Soldering iron and related paraphernalia.
Multi meter.
Shrink tubing or Kapton tape.

Many calculators on line to figure this out for you, here is but one;

https://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php

Good luck

Terry,

The first thing I do is balance the loco (w/lead).
I then add weight (more lead) where possible and still keep the lokie balanced.
More often than not, I also add lead to the tender.

Not sure what the gain from the weight over the pilot other than maybe to keep it down on the track?
If balanced, is that weight necessary?

Good luck

QuoteIf it's just a "dead end" siding for parking, I would think just using a power routing turnout would save a lot of wiring and a switch......no?

Sid

Great minds think alike.

QuotePosted by: Len    Posted on: Today at 02:22:12 PM
Insert Quote
Code 80.

Len

+/- .010, measure and see.
It's highly probable that the Chinese manufacturer is working in metrics.
That's the step you feel when running your finger over track joints.
I generally chamfer the taller rail.

Good luck

Hi Jamaica,
When I draw what I think you are saying, I see no reverse loops.

Polarity appears consistent.
You can connect the same "transformer" to the same track, just be double sure you have the same polarity.

It depends on the radius of your curves as to how many feeders might be required.
What is total distance measured for all three loops between rails?

And I would have two power feeds exactly 180° across at the center loop.

My test 8 is 12.5r curves with a 30° crossing EZ track, just short of 14' total length.
I have but one feeder.

The drivers are the wheels, not sure what you're asking about.
The driver wheels are attached to each other by a plastic sleeve.
If the wheels are coming out of the sleeve and falling off, it's probable that the sleeves are cracked.
If so, they will need replaced and the drivers re-quartered.
Spook is speaking of the side rods connected to the driver(s).
Clean your track and all your wheelsets.
You can polish the pin that the drawbar connects to and squeeze the wire, on the drawbar, together to get better contact.

The best most effective fix is, as the Spook stated, swap tenders to Spectrum tenders.
The performance of these two little lokies after the tender swap, is like the difference between night and day.
MBK is now blowing out the slopeback, the short can be found on eBay.

Good luck

Check your PM