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Messages - Jon D. Miller

#121
Large / Re: trouble with Connie.....
February 27, 2010, 01:19:54 AM
It's difficult to even guess what the problem may be without having the locomotive to check.

As Bill mentioned, make sure all the drivers are in quarter.  As an example all crank pins one side of the locomotive should be on the same plain.  For example all crank pins should line up at say the 3 o'clock position. If one crank pin is higher or lower than the others then it would be out of quarter. 

Did you tighten not only the side and connecting rod bolts but also the Phillips head screws that attach the counterweights and wheels to the axles?

Disconnet the connecting rod from each side of the locomotive. Take some fine wire and wire the connection rod up and out of the way so it will not hit on the crank pin.  Run the locomotive to see if you still have the noise.
If so, the check the side rods since they could be bent, as Bill mentions.

If no noise with this test, then it could be a connecting rod hitting. 

Other than that, without seeing the locomotive it's difficult to guess what the problem may be.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD
#122
Large / Re: The New 2-6-6-2
February 27, 2010, 01:00:59 AM
The Bachmann Owner's Manual states: "Intended for operations on railroads with medium to wide radius curves."

Bachmann does not define their meaning of medium to wide radius.

All of my curves are 10' or 20' diameter (5' or 10' radius).

I do have some LGB 1600 switches (4' radius) in a yard. The 2-6-6-2T negotiates these switches without a problem.

Given its articulation my guess would be the 2-6-6-2T will handle 8' diameter (4' radius) curves without a problem.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD
#123
Large / Re: Forney
February 25, 2010, 10:36:27 AM
Jim,
Have you looked, in detail, at the complete drive system of the Forney?

Anything is possible.  Changing the gauge the 32 mm will involve more than just moving the drivers in to 32 mm.  An accomplished machinist should be able to make the change.  It will be no small task.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD
#124
Large / Re: Climax parts ?
February 25, 2010, 10:05:28 AM
Sean,
I checked two Climax locomotives.

The pin you reference seems to be an interference fit.  Their is no indictation on either locomotive that these pins will drop out.  Both locomotives have hundreds of hours and there is no indication that the pins have moved or started to work their way out.

If you are concerned a very small drop of CA could be used. However, what happens if you ever want to remove the pin at a later time?  Now, if for some reason the pin just drops in with no interference then CA. or some other type glue/cement would be required.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD
#125
Large / Re: Climax parts ?
February 24, 2010, 11:48:36 AM
Sean,
Chances are your Climax already has the two piece rear drive shatt.



This is the two piece drive shaft that should be installed in your Climax.

If not, the old one piece drive shaft would cause torque loading that in turn would break a component of the drive shaft or the small gear in the rear motor block.

If your drive shaft failed and there is this two piece drive shaft already installed then the failure is due to some other cause.

For general information.  These two piece drive shafts are available through Bachmann Service. 
#126
Yes, the couplers on the locomotive are at the correct height.

However, it appears the question had to do with the locomotive having couplers at a height that would allow coupling with truck mounted couplers.

So, if a person wants to pull cars with truck mounted couplers then the lower offset couplers will have to be used.

It's all well and good that the couplers are at the correct narrow gauge height but that sure doesn't do any good for being able to use cars with truck mounted couplers.



Pictured is the coupler height of the 2-6-6-2T, as delivered, matched to the kadee height gauge.  The couplers, as delivered, match the coupler height of Bachmann's 1:20.3 rolling stock.  Bachmann also provides offset couplers with its 1:20.3 rolling stock so those cars can be set up to couple with cars having truck mounted couplers.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"


JD
#127
The steam and sand dome on both the 4-4-0 American and 2-6-0 Mogul are attached to the boiler with a Phillips head screw.

Remove the steam dome turret, it just lifts off, and look down inside the dome. You'll see the Phillips head screw.

On the sand dome remove the sand dome fill lid.  It just lifts off.  Look down inside and just like the steam dome you'll see the screw.

Look at page Page 21 of the 4-4-0 American Owner's Manual.  There you will see that the boiler has a small round molded casting on the boiler that accepts the mounting screw.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD
#128
Large / Re: REMOVAL OF WHISTLE DOME
February 19, 2010, 11:33:57 AM
I take it you are making reference to the steam dome.

The dome is glued on to its base on the boiler. They can be tough to remove depending on the amount of glue used.

Turn the boiler over and support it on both sides of the dome. Take a wooden dowl that will fit into the dome.  Tap the dowel with a small hammer and in most cases the dome can be broken loose from the glue/cement without damage to the dome.  Just don't wack it too hard or you'll crack the dome.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD
#129
Large / Re: The New 2-6-6-2
February 19, 2010, 11:14:21 AM
Yes, there is a place for a speaker. It would be mounted under the socket.



The speaker mounting area size is set up for a 3" speaker.  It will have to be a low profile speaker to clear the bottom of the socket.


One of the "Enthusiastic Childern"


JD
#130
As Mike mentioned the locomotive came with an accessory pack that contains the offset shank couplers along with a coupler box and a shorter shank coupler for the front of the locomotive.



Pictured are the offset couplers along with a coupler box and short shank coupler for the front of the locomotive.  Note in the picture the coupler in the foreground is one of the offset couplers.  These will mate with truck mounted couplers.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD
#131
Large / Re: 2 truck Shay
February 11, 2010, 02:00:36 PM
Sounds like it's one of the electrical ball bearing pickups that run against the back of the drivers.

There is one of these ball bearing pickups behind each driver.  You will find them illustrated in the documentation that came with the Shay.  For example, with the 36 ton Shay on page 26 of the owner's manual the electrical pickups are illustrated.

Now you have to find out why the ball bearing dropped out.  Possibly the driver is loose.  It could have moved out on the axle and that allowed the ball bearing to drop out.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

#132
Vic,
A well thought out and executed modification.  The locomotive and your work are first rate.

Great backhead detail.  Sure improves the cab interior.


One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD
#133
Large / Re: Help identifying a Big Hauler
February 01, 2010, 12:22:04 AM
The locomotive is a Plus series Big Hauler. It's a wood burner. It was an individual sale item, not part of a set.

I found it in the 1994 and 1995 catalog.  Did not check any additional catalogs. 

I think it has a version 3 drive system.  Not the most reliable drive train by any stretch of the imagination.  From the sellers ad the shipping is going to cost about what the locomotive is worth.

Loco Bill will be able to give you more detailed information on the unit. I'd wait to bid until Loco Bill has the opportunity to comment.  He's the expert on Big Haulers.



One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD
#134
Large / Re: ET&WNC trailer on a flat car
January 29, 2010, 01:07:45 PM
As Bill says the trailers can be removed.  They are held in place by the trailer tow pin.

I've been looking for a tractor since the TOFC were first introduced, with no luck. Can't find the correct scale or era.  The tractors could be mid 1930s the period these cars were in service.

A little detailing of the trailers makes them a nice load for the flat cars. Books published relating history of the ET&WNC will have pictures that can be used for adding detail.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8ccJZvSGcg

Short video of these TOFC along with some drop bottom coal cars.

If you should come across tractors that could be used please let us know.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD
#135
Large / Re: K-27
January 24, 2010, 11:28:42 PM
I've had a green boiler #455 D&RGW K-27 since early January 2008.

The K-27 is run on just about a weekly basis. Once the initial problem with the counter weights was solved the locomotive has run without any problems. The electronics have not been modified.

The locomotive has a RCS PnP installed and it is trouble free, with great range.

A Phoenix Big Sound 97 is installed. It has a set of K-27 chips that Phoenix programmed for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUbldH8t4NI

This is a short video that shows the K-27 with the Phoenix sound. The newer 2K2, P5, or PB9, depending on what control system is fitted, will produce sound that is superior to the old Big Sound 97 system.

Great locomotive that is fun to operate.  I'd sure purchase another one if in the market for a highly detailed, dependable, narrow gauge 2-8-2.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD