I assume this is the stock decoder, sold with the loco by Bachmann?

I do not think that it will use the chuff switch, typically these are OEM decoders from SoundTraxx, and the OEM versions typically are missing some features, notably a chuff switch input.

Let's make sure of the decoder first, and then the manual on the decoder.

Greg

Please note: LEDs run on current, not voltage.

There is a "current limiting" resistor inline with the LED, and it's value is calculated such that the resistor limits the current to a safe level.

I believe the resistors in the Big Hauler/Annie are from track voltage, and probably are nominal for 18-20 volts.

Not having a schematic, you would check this out with a meter.

Greg

Sounds like the first time, wrong address... that's why no response (Engine sounds usually come on irrespective of address...)

The second time, sounds like you got it right.

That's my theory of what happened.

Greg

Thanks Bill I thought I was overlooking something.

Do you know what, if any, speakers are included?

Greg

Big hauler set cars are very light, and adding some weight often helps.

Metal wheels are the way most people go, but adding weight will work, but there are other issues with plastic wheels.

Bachmann makes replacement metal wheels, just get the right size.

You can also measure your gauge with an inepensive set of vernier calipers from Harbor Freight

Greg

He asked how many speakers....

What post has "spraker" in it?

decoder manufacturer and model?

Hunt, do you have any reason to believe there will be more than just one speaker in the tender?

Also don't get your hopes up on documentation on the decoder, traditionally it has been sparse, as they have always been OEM'd from a major company, and that major company does not support the decoder.

Normally a "detuned" SoundTraxx is what you will get, The Shays had detuned Tsuanmi's, and the decoders for the Thomas are likewise.

Greg

Already replied on your previous thread.... why make a new thread?

No wiring diagrams on Berlyn locos that I have ever seen. I have a Berlyn loco that I bought new in the box, no wiring diagram or schematic.

I have several Accucraft locos, the manual had a rudimentary schematic/wiring diagram.

Not ONE of them on any loco was 100% correct....

You need trace and validate the wiring yourself.... I had one hell of a time on one loco, a K4 Pacific, and it turns out there was a hidden 6v regulator, screwed to the underside of the geartrain casting.... ony found it by seeing a wire run into a hidden recess...

Greg

Sorry Bill I missed the first link, I deleted my post, but is there a way to figure out the transmitter frequency if the white sticker is gone?

Greg

Quote from: Joe Zullo on December 04, 2020, 10:58:37 PM

Quote from: Greg Elmassian on December 04, 2020, 10:28:59 PM
Use the original 2 connectors at the back of the loco for the headlight and motor.

Unfortunately you still might want to use the chuff switch, needing another couple of wires.

Greg

Your way is the hard way. It requires getting to the wire side of those connectors. No easy task. No need for the chuff switches and the drum with the Revo. It's voltage controlled built in chuff is quite adequate. On the V5 the wires to the track pickups are EASILY accessible with just the bottom cover off. The rear light will be powered by the Revo in the tender. There are always different ways of accomplishing the task at hand. Why do it the hard way?

Many people prefer the accurately timed chuff from the actual chuff switch, why else would the Revo come with a chuff switch input?

Hard way? Matter of opinion, what's so hard?

Greg

If your head starts to explode with all the molex part numbers, try all-electronics.com too..

Greg

Well, since both trucks are powered independently, sounds like both of the geartrains have self destructed.

This is pretty common, and the plastic can crack (usually gears) just sitting.

Put it on it's back and see if either truck runs, but I think you are in the market for a pair of replacement trucks.

Greg

Use the original 2 connectors at the back of the loco for the headlight and motor.

Unfortunately you still might want to use the chuff switch, needing another couple of wires.

Greg