What about using parts from another manufacturer?
Anybody else make CW?
Atlas made a dash 8-40 ... dunno if made in a wide.
Maybe Shapeways?
Maybe a skin graft.
Looks like your best option is a donor from an auction site or possibly a train show.
@TJ suggestion for n scale yard scale...is a good option, I have purchased many times from them.

Good luck

That's good stuff Jonathan

With a google search the key words, "Bachmann controller 6605" turns up this info:

Output 0-17VDC, 20VAC.
Max Output 6VA Total.

I think most here would agree with both Len and bbmiroku, they are truly basic starter packs.
Really suited better for running accessories than at running trains.
Upgrading power supplies from the entry level type, should be very high on the priorities list.
Second only to the acquisition of real estate.

http://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=258_366_367&products_id=2477

I don't "do" DCC so my curiosity is piqued.
For how many continuous minutes did you run this way?
Did you/or do you, have any way you could measure the amp draw while doing this?
What is the output rating of the EZ Command?

Lots of trains running at the same time is a good thing (DCC or DC).
For a minute or two is very different than for an hour or two.

Hi billyb,

Not much to these controllers to figure out.
Two screw terminals marked either "Track" or DC output are connected one to each rail.
Other two screw terminals marked Accessories or "AC" are connected to either lighting accessories or switch machines, or simply not used if not required. Sometimes they are covered with tape from the factory so you don't hook them up to the track.
IIRC, the Rheostat knob rotates about 180°, in the center will be off, so about 90° left or right.
Turning the knob either CW or CCW makes the lokie move either forward or reverse (according to which wire you have connected to which rail).
The more you advance the knob (either left or right of center) the faster your train will go (increasing voltage to the track).

Good luck

You need to comprehend what you read.
Your perception may or may not be the same as mine.

You go to the well twice and your not satisfied;
Yet you go back again?

And I'm the bad guy for suggesting you go somewhere
else?

Ok.

Good luck

QuoteNo, I paid for digital diesel sound .Not noise

Your barking up the wrong tree.

Sure you know this and would not dare do this in reality.
Bish please.

QuoteSure you know this and would not dare do this in reality

The definition of "Quality" is conformance to requirements.

In your opening post you state;

QuoteSeems the stock speakers are junk....I have replaced both for the second time with factory speakers and they always sound really tinny with hardly any base and not very good volume along with the original warped defective fuel tank the houses the speakers as a chamber and the replacement was also bowed /warped down the middle. Iam sure this is not the only 2 it seems....Thanks for teaching me this lesson at my cost....

It appears to me your perception of quality differs from Bachmann's.
You're getting what you paid for.

If you feel you're not getting the quality you desire, well that's on you...hence my reply above.

Do as the Bachmann asks and contact the service department.
I'm sure Bachmann will be more than happy to send you another speaker and maybe a decoder, to make things right.

Good luck with your resolution.

P.S. No affiliation with Bachmann in anyway.

Bachmann's niche is in entry level trains and related products, including decoders and speakers.
If you desire something more than that you will need to look elsewhere.

Check that the Universal is seated properly on both ends.
There is something going on there, it should not raise up even if the siderods are in a bind.

 Frog = Friggin' Rail Out of Gauge

There is more than one way to skin the same cat, nobody is right and nobody is wrong.
Looking at the railhead from directly on top:
Some like to cut the rail perpendicular to the length of the rail (90° angle straight down).
I like to cut at a 45° angle, straight down (/).
I don't fill the gap.
Just my preference YMMV.
But you don't have to cut "straight down", the angle top to bottom does not matter.
A gap is a gap.

Good luck

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EMD_F-unit

Did you look to see what the spook has to say?

http://www.spookshow.net/locos.html