Take a small flat blade screwdriver and put it down in the joiner where the rail would fit.
And twist it, to open up the joiner, yes this will destroy said joiner.
Once you have opened it up wide, it is possible to gently work the joiner from the rail with a back and forth motion (side to side) with needle nose pliers.
Be careful not to pull the rail from the "spikes" on the ties.
If you're running on 11.25r or better, short shank couplers will work in most cases.
If the wheelsets roll very freely in their trucks a coupler swap maybe all that is necessary.
If they don't, consider changing the trucks with the couplers (as one unit) as well, as Len suggests.

Good luck

https://www.ebay.com/p/Extra-South-by-H-Reid-1986-Paperback/900573

Quoteor do I have to always deal with

Not necessarily.
That's all on you.
Change what you can, deal with what you can't.
Why not return to Bachmann for repair or replacement warranty?
Or, if you know how to solder (I do), fix it yourself (I would).
I do understand the PITA it is.
But you have at least those two options.

Good luck

We all have different skill sets.
I'd like to think I am pretty good at scratching and bashing.
I am mechanically inclined, with a background in mechanics and machining and welding.
Still, I am nowhere at the level of Johnathan or Sid, and maybe a few others here, on their level of attention of detail.
But, I don't try to achieve their level, but I do admire it.
And I really like their posts.
I am secure within myself.
I really don't give a snap about what others think of my modeling.
I please myself, I'm the only one who counts.
It's my railroad, I'm the one that looks at it every day.
And at the end of the day, playing with trains gives me a feeling of peace, and satisfaction.
It takes my focus off the real world.
Yes, I play with trains, and so do all of you.
You may have a different label you put on it, to justify it in your own mind.
Serious modeler comes to mind, whatever that means.
Serious about playing with trains I guess.
It's all good, and I would agree with any label you put on it.
Why so defensive?
Why do you worry of what others think?
I think your focus could be better off spent somewhere else, like on the pike.
But that's just IMO.
Like Yardy says: "enjoy".

I do.

Zitnik Trains, 5½ miles due East.
In Pinellas Park.
Visit Zitnik 1-2imes per month.
H&R Trains, about 9 +/- miles or so, same road, same direction, further east, in St Pete.
Haven't been there for about 6 months.
There is another shop up on Ulmerton Rd. in Largo, between Starkey and Belcher, which seems to be still in business.
10 +/- miles north of me.
The three times I've passed it, it has not been open.
But I think that's just timing, think they have been there 2-3 years.

Can't remember the last time I poured through a Chilton's manual (early 70's?).
What year is that Dodge?
To the plug wires and the pens on the table...the lug nuts....album is great.
I very much admire your attention to detail.
You're a Craftsman Sid, and I love looking at your modeling.
It's top notch good stuff.
Thank you for posting that.

Get your calipers and measure the diameter of the axle bore, the outside diameter of the gear, and the tooth count.
Likely to find a suitable replacement.
Check the geared axles from the old Dash 8's, or the old F units.
If you really like that lokie and plan to run it a lot, consider buying an organ donor from a show, or off eBay.

I don't own that lokie, does the gear have enough of a boss on one side that a collar can be fitted?

Love your layout and what you're doing, it's somewhat nostalgia to me.
It's good stuff.
Regarding the fourth picture posted from your post on 4/16, in "what if" the second to last car (dome) derailed?
The Amtrak pic near the edge of the layout.
Have a look, maybe I see something others don't.
That's a long way down,
To me.
Just sayin'.

This works well, maybe cheaper than your Kleenex box.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-1-in-x-6-ft-Foam-Plumbing-Tubular-Pipe-Insulation/3133247
Sand or cut a flat on the bottom.

I use this;
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/bowser-n-23-foam-locomotive-cradle/
Any piece of scrap closed cell foam can make a satisfactory cradle.
Cut to the width you desire.

QuoteThe amperage rating of the motor most likely is too low for the decoder.

I'm sure he meant to high rather than to low.
The excess is dissipated as heat.

Tell us, what is your logic in changing the motor rather than the decoder?

Or is it just a personal decision?

Glad you got it fixed.
If you want to realize the full potential of that little lokie, balance it, and then add a 'Spectrum" tender.
The difference those two modifications make is incredible.

Bachmann's current business strategy is to put a decoder in "everything" n scale.
If, and when, Bachmann re-runs "older" locos you can bet they will have decoders as well.

Hi jimr,
Have a look here, it's a good read;

https://www.nmra.org/beginner/wiring

Good luck

Troubleshooting 101 Terry.
Find your meter and start poking around.
Sounds to me like something just not quite right in tender 5.
Check the entire circuit, including polarity between engine and tender.

Good luck

Well then, go to plan B.
Call them.
Explain the repair to them (Scale, loco type, DCC or not, problem, etc.
Ask about repair/warrantee costs, including shipping, you maybe responsible for this, maybe both ways.
Again ask, as I don't remember.
When all that's agreed upon, and payment is made, then get them to fix your email addy and password, for your account, before you hang up the phone.

Plan C is Snail Mail.


Good luck