I would appreciate receiving any opinions of the HO IHC 2-8-2 'Premiere' Mikado in terms of how it runs and tracks, etc. I know, from what Ray B. (Orsonroy) has shared with me, it is not even close to an ICRR Mike in details ... but, I'm'pondering' getting one (if it runs as well as the IHC 2-10-2) and seeing how 'close' it can be 'bashed' to resemble an ICRR Mike (1100-1600 series).

I realize that it is not 'DCC ready', but since I currently use DC/Analog power, that's not an issue for me. I'm more interested in how it tracks, pulls, etc. The IHC premiere line seems to me to mechanically be pretty good, based on the locomotives I do have.

Opinions?

Thanks!

lanny nicolet

Jon Grant's beautiful kit bash of an ICRR #908 gave me the 'push' needed to get going on my Spec 2-8-0.

Here are 3 photos of my #908's 'current' condition. Have to finish pilot airpump details, boiler front hand rails, marker lights, etc. Then smooth and sand to get ready for painting. Then comes cutting and shortening the tender. It's fun so far ... but the tender scares the 'dickens' out of me 







lanny nicolet

Hi Sheldon,

Thanks for the very complete and well detailed set of instructions on adding diaphragms to passenger cars and coupler adjustment received in the mail today.

My layout has 32-36" radius curves, so this will be a modeling project that should work very well. I'm putting together an ICRR 4-8-2 with non-streamlined Harriman passenger cars to model the "Iowan"/"Hawkeye" that ran behind 4-6-2 and/or 4-8-2 steam into the early 50s in Iowa. I'll use your instructions to create the prototypical diaphragms on that train as I model it (two coaches, a diner, and 'head-end' cars).

Thanks again for the great instructions.

lanny nicolet

Hi all,

My Spectrum 2-8-0 kit bash is progressing but I've decided to replace the front pilot coupler with a Kadee. Will a #5 work OK? I'd also sure appreciate advice on the best (eaiest ) way to remove the existing coupler and install the Kadee ... hopefully with a minimum or 'no' cutting?.

Thanks!

lanny nicolet

Hi all,

I have several resin kits of various ages. They all come with decals, some of which are the 'thin film' variety. Some of the kits, though new and never built, are 'old' in terms of age, thus the decals are old as well.

I understand that there is a danger of 'old decals' cracking, splitting, or otherwise being ruined when applied, if they are 'too old'. I also understand there is a product that can be used to 'renew' or 'reseal' old decal sets so this will not happen.

I sure would appreciate a quick summary of what product(s) to get, how to apply it, and anything else that I need to watch out for when using 'old, treated' decals.

Thanks very much for any and all advice/help/information.

lanny nicolet

Hi all,

Sometime back I mentioned that I had a couple of old "Holgate&Reynolds" ("Three Brothers, Inc") Chicago Metra car kits. Here are a couple photos ... one of the finished kit, the other of the Metra train that I have built, bought and, with the locomotive (Spec F40 PH) painted and decaled. Of course this is totally out of place for my late steam era layout ... but it will eventually reside on a hidden 'storage/staging' track for my son (who wanted me to model the Metra he often rode when living in Chicago).

I still have some detail work to do on the Spec F40 PH, and one more Holgate&Reynolds car to build to complete the six car train. By today's craftsman kit standards, the kit is pretty poor ... specially the white metal castings. They are 'awful'! But the extruded aluminum body is nice looking, and seems a pretty close kit to the original CB&Q/Metra commuter cars.



Above is the finished kit. I don't plan to do any 'interior detailing'.



Here's a 'cab car' view of the whole train.

My request is this: I am trying to locate one set of the self stick blue and white Metra signs that go on these cars. I have had no sucess, though looking for them in many places.

If anyone on the forum has a set that they would be interested in selling, please contact me off line (they must be the same as are found in the H&R/Three Brothers Chicago Metra HO kits). Thanks!

lanny nicolet

Hi everyone,

John Grant's beautiful kit bash of his Spec #908 ICRR Conso gave me the 'kick start' I needed to get busy on mine. Thanks to many helpful photos and answers to questions from Ray Breyer, here's a couple of 'progress shots' on my Spec 2-8-0.

A long way to go but having lots of fun. The "Paducah sand dome" (unique, I think, on the ICRR 2-8-0 900 series to #908) is totally scratch built, using the basic idea John used in building his. It's hard to see the details, but I have added the sand hatch with hinges, etc. This is 'gonna take a long time!   

lanny nicolet

Hello all,

I am in the process of putting an 'older rolling stock kit' together. It is comprised of white metal detail parts, extruded aluminum shell (it's an old Holgate & Reynolds ('Three Brothers') bi-level commuter car) which has a wood base/underbody ('basswood', I am pretty sure).

I need to use 'sanding sealer' on the wood in order to get a smooth metal finish to the underbody. The LHS did not have any when I went there yesterday. Any suggestions for something that would be a good substitute? I need to seal the wood and sand it a couple of times to get a good, metallic look.

Thanks for any advice!

lanny nicolet

I am sure this topic must have been covered before, however having never taken the boiler off the chassis of the Spec 2-8-0 for kit bashing, etc.,advice would be appreciated. (I have taken Spectrum boiler fronts off and cab removal seems pretty straight forward, but any advice and/or warnings will be greatly appreciated!).

Thanks!

lanny nicolet

Hi all,

Just wondering ('tongue in cheek' wondering :-) if this is what prototypical 'piggyback' freight is all about :-)

Evidently the grain train was going faster than it was supposed to be, and climbed right up on the back of the container train in front of it. The guy who sent it to me titled it 'restricted speed' ... he thinks someone is probably in big trouble.

lanny nicolet

Trying out something regarding posting of photos.

This is a shot of an ICRR 2-8-0 with the 'Paducah' style sand dome. Experimenting with getting correct size posted.



lanny nicolet

Hi all,

I am getting ready to purchase a 'hot knife' (to cut foam/insul/styrofoam board). It will be used to create rough foundation shapes for scenery, but also, I would like to be able to create styrofoam bases for my 'coal drag' train hoppers (hopefully much less expensive than buying commericially available coal loads for hoppers!).

Having never owned owned or used a 'hot knife' with styro. I would appreciate suggestions: things to watch out for when using them as well as specific brand names that are good and reliable for this kind of work. There seems to be several different kinds/brands, and I really don't know which would work best, or, if I would need two different sizes of these knives for the things I want to do with them.

Thanks for any and all help and suggestions.

lanny nicolet