Rich,

Thanks for that link. I can go to the Club when I get a chance and calculate the actual speed. Just for a frame of reference, the Bachmann locos run about 2/3 as fast as the Athearns.

I did put the locos on the rollers last night and ran them for about 1/2 hour each way, so they may get broken in a bit before I time them. Once I get them to the Club, I'll also set the starting voltage and speed match them.

Len S

Fellow Forum Members,

I have two Bachmann SD40-2 locomotives, one that came DCC equipped and one that didn't. I added/replaced NCE model BACH-DSL decoders in both. Both units have the weights that are split horizontally, not side by side (split frame). Everything works fine, but I have one question. Do these locomotives always run slowly? Unfortunately, I never ran them (both new) before I did the conversion, so I don't have a benchmark. I did look (per the instructions) for the capacitors, but I didn't find any.

Not that speed is that critical, because they both run fine but I was just wondering why these loco's are noticeably slower than my Blue Boxes.

Anybody else have this experience?

Thanks,

Len S

Bachmann has made a couple of different GP40 models and some have the DCC quick plug and others don't. The first release of this model was a split frame DC only that didnt leave much room for a decoder. I installed an n scale decoder and it and it works fine.  They later released the GP40 in the Spectrum line with no DCC quick plug but you could get a decoder that replaced the circuit board on the top of the frame. This particular loco isn't split frame and they upgraded the circuit board on the top of the newer models and have a DCC quick plug.   Converting most engines to DCC is pretty simple with or with out the DCC quick plug. Hard wiring is not as difficult as it may seem to be, just do one and you'll find out how simple it is, if you follow the instructions that come with decoders that need hardwiring. Split frame engines take a little more thought and planning since a lot of the design of the engine's  are really simply grounded contact points built into the engine that need's to be isolated from the motor.  I've converted 3 loco's with split frames, it does take a bit longer, but it can be done.
hope this helps, Jim

[/quote]

Does this philosophy also apply to the SD40-2 Non DCC equipped locomotives? (Item 67003) I haven't taken it apart yet, but I assume that the motor still needs to be isolated from the frame. Can you use the NCE replacement for the DCC On Board  (NCE BACH-DSL) in the non DCC units?

Thanks for the link and the explanation. It really helps us novices.

Len S

Is there a way to register our new products online? I searched the Message Board for info and didn't find any. If not, why can't this be a future enhancement to the site.
I don't trust the USPS to get that flimsy, exposed card to Bachmann without water damage or even parts missing.

Thanks in advance.

Len S

Jonathan

That is exactly what I plan on doing. The pictures are excellent .... you do good work.

The tender trucks are 8 wheel and the tender is a 56' monster, so I will have to start looking. In the meantime, I reamed out the holes a little bit and it rolls slightly better.

Thanks for your insight.

Len S

Thanks for your reply. The trucks are entirely plastic, with no conductivity. All the electrical pickup is in the locomotive. I agree, the wheels need replacement. I was just hoping somebody has already done this and can provide some insight as to what they used as replacements.
Len S.

Group,

I have a Bachmann 4-8-4 Northern, part number 660, lettered for the Santa Fe and having road number 3781, that I pulled out of storage and am trying to put back into running mode. I purchased this item new in 1977 and it has very little running time. My problem is this. The tender rolls like a brick. I've tried putting some LaBelle 108 oil in the sockets, cleaned that out and used graphite and even cleaned the ends of the axles, but all has failed.

I emailed the Bachmann Service folks and they got back to me very quickly with the answer I expected ... they don't have any new parts for this unit.

Is there any metal substitutes for these wheels? The axle tips on the original parts are blunt, not pointed. Does anybody know what size they are?  They are bigger than 36" Has anybody tried to replace them in the past?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Len S.

Quote from: Yampa Bob on January 14, 2009, 01:28:50 AM


I just tried some Testor's #8872 on the back of a piece, seems to dissolve the plastic, so it must be some form of styrene.

First of all, thanks for all the super info and tips. next, do you think a styrene 'bridge plate' glued to the bottom would help?

Len S.

All excellent ideas! Thanks for sharing your insight and experience.

Len S.

jayl1, the pieces are about 7.5" long. I didn't realize the rails came off the gray roadbed. I'll have to take a look.

Hello all you experts!!!!

This sounds pretty basic, but do any of you have experiece cutting filler sections out of stock 9" Bachmann EZTrack? Out layout is in need of three sections that cannot be made out of any existing filler sections. I've done this before on standard Atlas track, but not EZTrack.

Any sage advice? Thanks in advance for your input.

Len S.

I have had success using a hair dryer to heat the item, while it is clamped to a hard, flat surface and allowed to cool. Don't use metal clamps, as they heat up too much and might dent the surface. I picked up some plastic clamps at Menards. Clothes pins also work well. Heat guns may also be too much heat for the plastic.

Good Luck....

Len

Does the loop come back on itself?  The diverting route cannot create a 'reverse loop' without having insulated rail joiners and a controller.