resonable grade for incline

[devious56]

Hey John,

Right now my running gear is a LBG starter set (72324) that has a steam locomotive (2-4-0) with tender and 2 short passenger cars.  I really like the steam age and would like to get a better locomotive as time goes by.  I figured i could get up and running with this, and see what it going on.  I did purchase some used track and a MRC Power G transformer, to gie me more than a circle to run on.

What do you mean, what kind of power?  For now, I would say staight DC, if that is what you are asking.

And Lee, thanks for the info on your mainline, I am going to try my best to stay at 2% until I get something stronger to pull with.

David

[Paul W.]

Hi David,
Actually the cleaning pad is not sandpaper at all, they are scotchbright pads. They actually polish the rail heads I believe. But with anything, after continued use, they will wear out, that's why they give you extras with the block. So instead of cutting grooves in your rails (as with sandpaper), you are just polishing it clean.

[devious56]

Paul,

Thank you very much for the explanation, that is definately on my 'want' list.  As soon as I'm up and running, I will go shopping.

Thanks again,

David

[John B]

David,

There are several different ways to go with the power; straight DC, Radio control, battery powered, and DCC.  I have gone the DCC route myself.   I have a basic system and am considering upgrading it to the NCE system.

If you’re looking for a good engine, Bachmann’s 2-8-0 Connie can be had at a reasonable price.  The 38 ton Shay is good too.  I have both along with the new porter which all have been converted to DCC.  I also have two 4-4-0 Big Haulers, an Indy and a Climax. 

John

[Chris R]

I'm pretty sure that one must always pour ACID INTO WATER, never the other way around, because the reaction can cause a small explosion, sending chemicals everywhere.  I'm not sure, but someone will have to verify this.

[Lee Carlson]

Right!  Acid into water, not the other way.
High school freshman science.

[devious56]

Hey John,

Quite a stable of horses you have.  I wouldn't mind having a shay, but think I will stay with what I have for a while.  At least until I get some track down and a little running time on what I have.  I would like to go to DCC some time down the road also, just so I could run a couple of trains at the same time.

And Chris and Lee, thank you very much for reminding me about the acid into water rule, I had forgotten all about that.  Maybe this weekend I wil be able to clean that track and start laying track.

You guys have a nice weekend, the weather here in Florida is supposed to be great!

David

[wade]

Dave,
I 'happened by' this thread and thought I would offer my experience. I have been modeling HO and On30 recently but in the 90s I worked with G outside. Good conductivity from one rail to anouther was a problem I had after a few years of weathering. For power I ran several leads out to keep the power up but eventually had to use dielectric grease in the joints which really did the trick. Could anyone tell me the latested methods , that is if they have changed? At that time I was using Aristacraft track. Ofcoarse soddering is likely the best. Good luck and welcome to G scale.
Wade

[John B]

Wade,

Stainless Steel track and Rail Clamps work great.  I also have track power wired in at several spots, about every 15 feet or so.

John

[Paul W.]

I agree with John, rail clamps! However many garden layouts run all brass track with no problems. I have two close friends both with over 800 feet of track that are running brass with track power. Once again the Briteblok cleaning pad keeps both railroads running smooth.