Starting over from scratch (almost)

[taku]

As a kid, we had a large HO gauge layout that took up 1/2 the basement.... (must have been about 5 4x8 sheets, 3 levels and 2 turntables w/roundhouses).  My parents moved years ago and it's long gone (the family that bought the house wanted it all torn out.) but all of the locomotives and rolling stock and some buildings are in boxes and my oldest son is now infatuated with trains (imagine that!). 
I need to start over and need some recommendations.

1. What is a good minimum track radius to keep to for main line?   Keep in mind that my father, son & I all love the large steam locos....   (I'm pretty sure there is a Big Boy, Mallet and perhaps Challenger class in those boxes among others).  Even if I can't run the big articulateds, I still would like to be able to run some nice 4-8-4's and similar....
2. I like the idea of the new DCC, but how do I best run some of my old stuff and gradually integrate the new?   Will I need to replace my old transformers?  Will my old engines run on the new systems?  Will a new DCC equiped run on my old equipment until I upgrade?
3. Does anybody have a good layout plan that might be contained to roughly 2 4x8 sheets, but would allow for possible addition later?  I like multi level and some mountain scenery (bridges, tunnels, etc).  Initially, I'd like to look for a good long runner and can always add switching yards later.
4.All this new fast track looks like a quick way to get something my son would enjoy, but I'm leaning toward the more traditional track on roadbed.   I'm just not sure I have the free time with work and two little ones.   Does anyone have thoughts on pro's & cons of either approach?   Can you start with the fast track and replace it sectionally?  Does someone make a 'transition piece' or can you just but the fast track & traditional roadbeds and work your way around as you 'upgrade'?   ...or just stay away from the 'click & go' all together?

Sorry for the barrage of questions, but it's been a long time and I appreciate any & all input.
Thanks,
Erich

[Joe Satnik]

Dear Taku,

Welcome back. 

Lots of questions.  I consider this the most important to start with:  At least 5 feet of width everywhere. 

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,8430.0.html  (Scroll down to 8th post.)

This will allow you up to 28" radius curves, essential for your longer wheelbase locos and cars. 

Wider than 5 feet you run into "reach" problems, as the human arm is usually under 2-1/2 feet. (Crawl under - access hatches needed for longer reaches.)

Ping-Pong tables are 5'x9' (two 5' x 4-1/2' pieces) and used ones can be found for a reasonable price in the classified "thrifties". 

Use your carpentry skills to get seamless and level joints between sheets.

If you have room for 4 feet but are tight, put the layout on casters and pull it away from the wall to access the other side when necessary.

Any of John Armstrong's layout books will teach you a lot, but the one mentioned in the link above (Track Planning for Realistic Operation, 3rd Edition) is especially good.  Check to see if you library or inter-library loan system has it. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[Jhanecker2]

Welcome Back Taku :  To answer some of the questions not covered by Joe Satnik , You can still run your Old trains on DC  and even  DCC trains depending on decoders should run on DC out of the box. Regarding compatabilty of EZ track and non-roadbed track ( Atlas , Walters , Peco, etc) since most of these are connected by track jumper clips they will work together.  Bachmann EZ Track is Code 100 track rails but transitional clips as well as tracks do exist . There is also an adapter for PowerLok Track to other track types. Your DC transformers will still be required to provide AC to power the switch machines  for your turnouts.   When I get around to building my layout , I will be using EZ track, PowerLok , and Atlas track as needed, each has it advantages & disadvantages.

[pdlethbridge]

Welcome Taku to the board. I've built my layout with two 4' x 8' that were cut into 2' x 4' sizes. This gave me the flexibility to go narrow for the middle sections and wide at the ends to give me a bent dogbone shape. Because of my handicap, I can't crawl under the table but the 2' wide sections allow me to get everywhere I need to be. I started the wiring in DC but have changed over to DCC with even the switch machines and turntable controlled from my hand held NCE Power Cab.
The original wiring was converted to a buss system ( a question for another day )  from the on/off switches I was using before. I started the plan as a switching layout starting from the left. Track is code 83 atlas with atlas switch machines controlled by Digitrax ds 64 units that can control up to 8 switches, solenoid or slow motion type.

[Woody Elmore]

Use the biggest radius that you can. A friend is building an HO layout  in his newly finished basement train room and some of his curves are 4 foot radius. The trains look great and there are fewer problems. If space is tight I would't use less than 22 inch radius.

Welcome back to the hobby.  Take a lot of advice with a grain of salt.  This is a hobby and is supposed to be fun.

[taku]

Thanks for all of the great advice so far.   I'll have to check and see if I can make a 5' work to use the 28" radius.  The notes about the access and width are well founded.  We had a variety of 'hard to reach' areas on our layout as a kid, but I was much smaller and more nimble then too.
I had been thinking of either an L configuration of about 2 4x8 sheets in a corner or I also have a long 16' wall that I could work along but it might limit my width as it is in a narrow part of the basement.
I'll check out some of the sites with plans that were mentioned in the other thread.
I also need to check the boxes and see if there was any track packed away worth using or if I'm starting from scratch for track.  If I am starting over on the track, does anyone have any recommendations to do this on a budget?   The EZ track looks like a quick and easy way to start as it allows for some quick experimentation before getting more permanent, but it also looks like it will add up quickly as each small section of track adds up $$.   What is the going rate for the nickel slilver flex track these days?   It seems to be my dad always bought bulk boxes of it in long lengths as well as cork roadbed?   (and what is prefered lately, cork or this 'new' foam that I see now?)

Sorry for yet more questions....

Thanks.
Erich