Dead spots in switches

[EQAddict14]

Hello all!

I have a small layout with 2 switches that make an inner loop and have discovered that there are dead spots in the switches.  Anyone know what might be causing this?  I have cleaned the track with a Bright Boy until they shine real nice.  The trains will go thru them if I run them fast enough but I want slower speeds.  I have a few engines that will run smoothly across the switches, even at slower speeds, but there are others that I have problems with.  I narrowed down the dead spots with my Gandy Dancer and they are both on the same spot, right as the wheels hit the part of the switch that moves.

Also, this layout is one that I got at a garage sale that is already fully wired up.  The only down side to the track is that it is the older style "gold" colored track.

ANy help will be greatly appreciated.

THANKS!

[pdlethbridge]

depending on the loco, you may be dieing as it crosses the frog. If the track, I suspect, is brass and the frogs are plastic, then the frog is a dead spot, unpowered. Longer wheel based locos shouldn't have to much problem because their wheels straddle the dead spot. Short locos like the 0-6-0t from Bachmann would have a lot of problems because of its short wheel base. The only real solution would be to power the frogs but you would have to replace the switches to do it. Modern switches like the Atlas customline have metal frogs that can be powered.
The other possible cause may be loose track joints at or near the switch that causes the power to come and go. What are you running on it?

[Jim Banner]

A third cause may be bad connection between the rails in the turnout (switch.)  Some turnouts were made with crimped on "jumpers" between rails that are supposed to be connected together.  Others use rivets as pivots for the points (movable rails).  These connections can oxidize, particularly with brass track (your gold coloured track in undoubtedly brass.)  If you have an ohmmeter or even a power pack and a 12 volt light bulb, it is fairly easy to trouble shoot a turnout, but the exact method depends on the turnout.  If you can let us know what brand they are, or even better, post a photo, then one of us can give you detailed instructions for trouble shooting and repair.

[EQAddict14]

I'm currently trying to run a Bachmann Thomas and Percy engines, and the Gandy Dancer as more of a test piece.  The diesels that I have been trying are a Bachmann Union Pacific GP-38 and others like it.  The power pack is made by Model Power and was fairly inexpensive, around $15.00 at Hobby Lobby.  But I don't think the power supply has anything to do with it since other engines like the GP-38 work fine at slow speeds. 

The track is brass, I don't know why I couldn't think of that, but the part that moves is metal and that is where the dead spot is and it does have what look like rivits holding them in place and allowing them to move.  I'm guessing from pictures that I have seen that the "frog" is the part where the switch actually Y's off.  There are no loose spots on the track, this thing was put together very sturdy.  I have tried cleaning all of the metal areas on the switches also.  I also don't know what brand they are also.

I have an Ohm Meter somewhere (I think).

THANKS!

[pdlethbridge]

I don't remember ever seeing metal frogs in brass turnouts, always plastic. the frog is where the rails cross. In the picture near the top you will see a black section where the rails cross, thats the frog.

[EQAddict14]

Ok, it's definitly not the frog then.

It's the part of the switch that actually moves or pivots.  I noticed the smaller engines are stopping right where the 2 rivits are and the small gap where that part of the switch moves.  I put a small screwdriver in that gap and the engine took off.  I'm starting to guess it's the connection under the rivits that is bad.  I'm not sure how to get this off since it's pretty well part of the layout.

[James in FL]

Be sure the points do not move away from the rails as the loco passes over.
They should be firmly held to the rails.

[pdlethbridge]

EQ, it could be more trouble than its worth

[EQAddict14]

I might have found the problem.  I checked into what James said about the points and sure enough, it is just ever so slightly moving away from the rail.  I tried holding it in place with my finger and they all ran fine thru the switch.  It looks like the piece that actually throws the switch is old and worn, a little too flexible.  I need one that is firmer and will hold the connection together.  Oh well, back to the hobby shop. 

Thank you all for the help.  I was hoping it wasn't a problem with another Bachmann product.  The last Bachmann steam engine bought had to be returned for a new one.

Thanks again!

[Santa Fe buff]

The black parts, plastic, are very common dead spots, for they don't run electricity.

[Joe Satnik]

Dear EQ,

I just took out a pair of right and left Atlas Remote (18" radius) Switches (or "turnouts") from my stash of train show purchased items.  The packages were opened (plastic bubble partially separated from printed cardstock backing) but held together with rubber bands.  All contents look new. 

Well, I must have gotten a bargain, and I just found out why. 

They have the same problems that you are having. 

With my Ohm-Meter I found poor (open or intermittent) electrical connections between the outside "stock" rails and all other rails on the switches.

There should be solid (low ohms) connections between all left rails.  (Stock, point, closure and [beyond the] frog.)  Same with all right rails.

The stock and frog rails can be powered through rail connectors from the 3 adjacent track sections.  The point and closure rails (internal to the turnout) are the problem.       

You should not have to rely on "spring" pressure of the point rail up against the stock rail for an electrical connection.  That connection should come through the point rail rivet.  The trick is to have enough rivet "crimp" pressure to give you a good electrical connection, yet not so much as to render the point rail immovable at its rivet pivot point.

If you wanted it all trouble free, you would solder small jumper wires to the outside of the rails.  This is hard to do, though, without melting/disfiguring the plastic ties with the hot soldering iron. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik     

[pdlethbridge]

EQ, try caboose ground throws, they work great and should give you positive contacvt at the points