DCC

[newfiegod]

I am wondering what you have to do different in the way of wiring to add a dcc power supply to your track? I have my track wired with 18 gauge bus wire and 26 gauge feeder wire, i think my track is over wired when it comes to the amount of feeder wire locations..lol.... My question is .,...can i just hook up a bachmann e-z command to my two bus wires the way it is or do i have to do something different?

[Hunt]

There is a lot of information you did not supply.  A few examples, the length of the feeders and where and how they are attached (bus and track).

So…  just disconnect your DC power pack and connect the DCC command station, place one locomotive on the track, turn on the power and you will find out if your track wiring is adequate.

Had you asked before you wired the layout I would have told you to consider
Bus      -- 14 AWG
Feeder -- 22 AWG,  each feeder wire should be no more than six inches long.

[newfiegod]

Really? I have my layout on a 3.6 ft x 5 ft board and what i did was run all the feeder wires basically to the center of the table and then attach all the feeder wires together and then to the bus wires. I'm new at this and this is my first layout so any advice would be greatly appreciated. My bus wires would be no problem to change but i dont wanna fool with the feeder wires. They were pretty hard to solder to the rails i cant imagine soldering a bigger wire than a 26 gauge.

[Hunt]

Really? ...

Yes, really!

[newfiegod]

I am gonna have to get a book on wiring!!! lol . If your feeder wires are only maximum 6 inches how do you get them to your bus wire? Do you run multiple bus wires to each feeder wire and them back to your power pack?

[Hunt]

I am gonna have to get a book on wiring!!! lol . ...

A little late, better late than never, huh? 

Better than some DCC books http://wiringfordcc.com Be warned this website covers advanced as well as basic DDC thus has a lot of information. Also,  there are many areas/solutions where what is presented is not the only way to do things.

Most home layouts only require one set of power bus wires.  Some layouts with very complex track plans could require sub bus using screw terminals.

You have what you have so try it ---- However, there is a better test to check the basic adequacy of your wiring so as not to ruin a decoder. Without any locomotives on your track short the rails at several places (one at a time). The DCC command station must shutdown each time you create a short circuit. If it does not, your wiring is inadequate.

[newfiegod]

i am running my track now with a bachmann dc controller and it seems to work fine....not running a good loco on it but ir runs okay. i will try a dcc system check on it to see if it will work.....web site was very insightful.....thank you!!!

[newfiegod]

Has anyone ever used the prodigy express dcc contrlooer by MRC and have you any advice about this unit. Is it user friendly? Is it compatible with all decoders? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

[fieromike]

Has anyone ever used the prodigy express dcc contrlooer by MRC and have you any advice about this unit. Is it user friendly? Is it compatible with all decoders? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

I haven't personally used the MRC controller, but, I would suggest that you read the manuals for ALL the "starter" systems before committing to any one of them.  See which ones are clear to you as you will be referring to them quite a bit as you learn how to make things work like you want them to.  How easy is it to change CV values, or make, add to, and break consists?  Digitrax, MRC, and NCE all make nice entry level systems, so you can't really go too far astray with whichever one you choose.

Mike

[Hunt]

Has anyone ever used the prodigy express dcc contrlooer by MRC and have you any advice about this unit. Is it user friendly? Is it compatible with all decoders? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Since Bachmann now sells two DCC systems I will not get into the details of other DCC systems.

I, however, suggest you to compare the NCE Power Cab and the MRC Prodigy Express. Here are  reviews,
MRC Prodigy Express http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/mrc-prodigye-review.htm

NCE Power Cab http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/powercab.htm

There has been a firmware upgrade to the NCE Power Cab since the review. Part of the upgrade is the addition of control of functions F13 through F28.

There may have been upgrade(s) to MRC Prodigy Express since the review as well, I did not look.

Always ask the retailer if you will receive the latest version and check with the manufacturer about the latest version and how you can tell if you get it.

[RoundupBob]

To wire for DCC, it is best to run two 14 AWG wire of different colors under the track this is the bus wires. Keep the wires close together. Then about ever 3 to 6 feet run your feeder (22 AWG) to the track(I run my feeders every 3 feet this is over kill as 6 feet works just fine). Your feeder wires will only need to be about 6" + or -. Run a 14 AWG wire from each of the bus wires over to the DCC command station. All of the wires should be solid wire not strand wire.  Hope this helps, Bob

[newfiegod]

helps alot bob. Right now i have a 3.6 ft x 5 ft layout and i ran all my feeder wires 26 gauge to th center of the table and ran two bus wires 18 gauge from the controller to the feeder wires. Runs great dc wise but i,m not sure if it will hold enough power for dcc....What is your opinion bob? I only plan to run 2 trains on this small layout.

[Hunt]

...
All of the wires should be solid wire not strand wire
...

In general, solid or stranded wire makes no different for DCC use. Electric AC current skin effect is insignificant at DCC frequencies. Cost may be the determining factor for choosing solid or strand.

Stranded wire is easier to work with than solid in those situations where a somewhat flexible wire is needed. Although, I do suggest if using Self-Stripping Electrical Tap Connectors (a.k.a. suitcase connector) instead of soldering then solid wire is the better choice of the two.

[RoundupBob]

OK How about. "I prefer solid because it is easer for me to work with and solid wire is smaller in diameter for a given AWG number(ie. 14 AWG solid is smaller in diameter than 14 AWG strand wire)". I have used strand on my lay out but I find that solid works better for me. Also I like copper wire because of it's low resistance.  What wire you use is a personal choice. I stand corrected.
   
3.5' X 5' is not a large layout. It will probably work ok for now. If it was my layout I would at least replace the bus wiring with 14 AWG at this time. I would leave the feeder wires that you have in place but would use 22 or 20 AWG feeder on all new wiring. When your layout grows bigger it will need to be done.  It should be easy to run the bus wires under the track and then shorten and solder your feeder wires to them.  Bob

[RoundupBob]

Here is some info:

The easy way to connect the feeder wire to the bus is with 3M Scotchlok connectors("suitcase connectors") The hard way is!.... Using 14 AWG solid wire for the bus. I find that if I use wire striper size 16 on the AWG 14 solid it will cut the insulation but not the wire. I make two cuts in the insulation about a 1/4" apart,  then use a knife to remove the 1/4" piece of insulation. This leaves a place to solder the feeder on to and you do not have to cut the wire in-two. The wire striper I have is made for strand wire which is bigger in diameter so it will not cut the solid wire when using the 16 AWG striper on AWG 14 solid.

HINT: If you lay the bus wire on top of the track you can mark them where the feeder wires are. Remove the insulation then run it under the layout and connect or solder the feeders on.

HINT: I like to use little kitchen cup hooks to hold the bus wires up under the track. You can close the hooks if needed. Both wires can go through one hook. The solid wire is strong enough that you only need a hook about every 2' apart.  Hope this helps. Bob