spectrum 2-8-2?

[tgobbi]

New to this forum so I apologize in advance if the subject has been covered already!

An ad in the current MR for one of the large mail order companies lists under "NEW" a Spectrum 2-8-2. This is the first I've heard about it and I'm looking for some information such as road names available, delivery date, etc.

Thanks very much for any information.

Kurt Youngmann
SKP Lines

[morrisf]

Here you go...

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=40220

[rogertra]

It's a Chinese prototype.

[oldline1]

Kurt,

It's a great model with lots of detail. It runs very smoothly and is well worth the money. The Chinese details can be "Americanized" with just a little work. If you need or want a small Mike this is your ticket.

I have 2 and I have no problems with them. Mine are from the first run a few years ago that came without being DCC ready. The new run is DCC ready which helps.

Roger

[r.cprmier]

Kurt;
Like Roger, I have two.  I have "Green carded" one to a "generally American" proyotype-that is, no particular roadmname, but to the specs that my road would require of an engine this size. 
I'll tell you, for a modification, this engine is very straightfoward, and a great model to get your feet wet with.
Bowser now owns Cal-Scale, the company thae I order all of my brass investment castings from.  Their inventory is good, to the best of my knowledge, so check them out.
I swapped tenders as I couldn';t stand that Chinese prototype-looking tender.  Not to knock anyone's country-I just didn't like the looks.  I had a couple of 2-8-0 tenders kicking around, so I used one of the Russian tenders for the Mike, and then did the Consolidation tenders to the Russians.  The Consolidations have the two Vanderbilt tenders (shorty).
During it's stay in Essex, Ct, I spent many an hour in the maintenence building just looking her over.   

[oldline1]

Rich,

I agree with all your comments about the stock SY tender. I'm having trouble deciding what tenders to put behind them though. I have several brass N&W tenders that look good and I've thought about the USRA from my Spectrum 2-6-6-2 or maybe one from one of my Russians or the 2-8-0. So far I haven't been able to make the decision but ultimately the Chinese tenders will not be running behind my 2-8-2's. I've looked at the Spectrum small Vandy but don't care for the coal bunker that much.

Bowser is a great company to deal with. Always professional and a good inventory of stuff.

In case you need something a little different you can also try Greenway Products. They have a large selection of brass parts and are also good folks to deal with. They have some castings not available from Cary, Cal-Scale or PSC.

Roger

[r.cprmier]

The replacement cab is from Greenway.  I have been buying parts from Greenway for about six years, and frankly, I like their line of parts and product.
At West Springfield, among the larder I purchased, I bought one of their sound modules just to try at the bridge entrance to "the sea" (wall), and if kept relatively low, it is really groovy.  I would love to see an addition such as marbour sounds (tug whistles, the sound of a screw breaking water, etc). 

There are several dealers I buy larts from:  Greenway, Don Tichy, Bowser, et al. 

[usmcnewdog]

Folks,

I just got one of these chinese 2-8-2's, and I apparently got an early run which is not dcc equipped. 

I installed a digitrax decoder, but am getting erractic behavior.  It is jerky and stops for no apparent reason then wont start back up until I shut off track power!

Any ideas?  I wonder if I didnt need to cut some capacitors???

Mike Schock

[usmcnewdog]

On a followup I remove the decoder, and am now running it on 00 no decoder on my digitrax.  The engine runs great!!

So is it the decoder or does something need cut?  I suspect the capacitor needs cut but I dont know what to cut?

[r.cprmier]

When I rebuilt my SY; I, as I said, put a Russian type tender on.  What I did then was just take out the DCC adapter setup, and without further ado, hardwired the decoder to the motor and headlight.  I do not advocate you neccessarily follow suit, but in doing what I did, I have no problems with capacitors, because there aren't any to contend with.  I have more space in the tender for a speaker, if that is my option, and I have eliminated a potential source of problem.  If you go this route, then you can get plug setups from Micromark that can give you the "disconnect' feature, if you are so inclined.  I personally do not see the need, as the locomotive will be sitting upright on the track, and not wallowing around on the bench in pieces.

If you choose to hardwire, do use a VOM and make sure you get the polarity straight for the motor, but especially for the light, which I changed anyway to a yellowglo diode, so there.