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Plymouth MDT

Started by Franz T, February 02, 2007, 09:40:17 AM

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Franz T

I posted this on the old board yesterday, but I'll try it again:
Does anybody have any experience replacing the couplers on this engine with MT's? Their website offers no help. I understand the MDT is a good running switcher but those crapidos....
In the last 40+ years manufacturers have raised the bar on so many things, (performance, detail, etc..) I find it hard to understand why the don't give those toy train couplers the heave-ho.

Franz T

nematode

I would like to get the MDT switcher also.

I thought all Bachmann n scale products were now comming with their new dummy knuckle coupler.

Perhaps the Bach Man can clarify.

the Bach-man

Dear All,
We're in the transition phase, much as the forum...
I believe at some point soon they'll all have the new couplers.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

ben_not_benny


Franz T

That is indeed good news. The knuckle coupler on the FM 16-44 work just fine with mt's. I put MT's on a Model Power Plymouth when I first changed away from rapidos and that was a major PITA. Plus it still runs like crap. I guess I'll just wait until B'mann changes over to knuckle couplers..

Franz T

ben_not_benny

I haven't seen the new couplers yet, but I heard they are very reliable.

Do they work with Accumates? Thanks!

Franz T

Ben!

Thanks for the link. It looks a whole lot easier than I thought it would be.
Time to order one.. The new couplers kind of look like the ones MDC used to have, with the difference that they stay coupled (unlike the MDC's) They work with accumates as well as with Microtrains. The only downside is that if you use magnetic uncouplers ( I don't) they will not uncouple, not having a trip pin or a split shank...

Franz T

GlennW

The MTL 1133 is a T shank coupler. Included is an adapter chip that goes into the coupler box.
Bachmann's new couplers may replace the Caboose Hobbies Unimates. They were a good nonoperating T shank coupler. For some applications, you could simply twist them into place & reuse the old coupler spring. I'd have to see how high/ low the new couplers are. I hope we don't have to shim them. Most MTL trucks come with a plastic washer that go in between the truck & the car bolster to rase it up just a bit.
As with any new product, some of the Bachmann's new coupler may need a bit of trimming to get them to work. Depends on how much flash must be cut from the molds.  :o
Wow this new forum has plenty of new features to play with!

ben_not_benny

No problem Franz, glad to help.

I'm hoping Bachmann can make some more switchers, such as the GE 70 tonner.

brokemoto

#9
1133 used to be almost universal for B-mann equipment.  If you are going to work with these; buy the coupler tweezers; they are a necessity for 1133.

The plastic box version of these is the only decent version of this put out by any manufacturer.  Its only drawback is one that plagues all short wheelbase N scale power:  it stalls on plastic frog switches.  This is not a manufacturing flaw; it is just how it is.  To get around this there are a few choices:

1)  You can use only metal frog switches.  This may require much extra wiring

2) You can hardwire an electrically live car to the locomotive.  This is the solution that I usually choose for my shorter wheelbase power.  If you are only going to use the Industrial diesel to shunt; it is no big deal to hardwire any car to it.  The Kato North American caboose is all wheels live.  Kato also sells several JNR brakemen's vans that with a minimum amount of work can be bashed into convincing appearing North American industrial hacks.

3) You can hardwire two together.  You can get away with this better on diesels than on steam.  This is the solution that I chose for the new Bachpersonn MDT switcher.

4) You can use a powered boxcar.  The old Life-Like split metal frame FA-2s are out there at many shows for bargain prices; I have seen them for as little as twenty-five dollars the A-B pair; in the less popular roads; of course.  Since all that interests you is the power chassis; chose the cheapest road name that you can find.  With a minimum of work; the Atlas fifty foot boxcar shell will go nicely onto this chassis.  You now have an easy to make cheater car.  The old plastic frame LL FA also works well.  Either one has enough OOMPH to shove a stalled switcher over the dead spots with the stall barely noticed; if at all.  I use this more with steam or with depowered switchers (fried motors and such).  A well broken in  LL
0-6-0T has similar DC throttle response to the LL FA.  The advantage of this is that you are not confined to shunting.  You can run the switcher around the cheater car for the return trip if you choose this option.  Of course you will have to give the throttle a little kick as the switcher approaches the plastic frog to get it across without its 1-4-0 helper.  You can also hardwire the switcher to the cheater; if you so desire.

(The comma key on this keyboard is broken; so I must use the semi-colon in its place)

Oh; and about those knuckle couplers on the FM H16-44: they sit too low.  Please address this on subsequent releases; Mr. B-mann.  Other than that; the new H16-44 is a pretty good locomotive.  Clearly it ain't the old Standard Line.

ole

I too had one of the first Plymouth MDTs but mine ran poorly. And the stalling thru the turnouts drove me crazy --- unless you ran it at a high speed. I made a slug out of a dead Mehano GP30 in order to improve electrical pickup and hard wired it to the Plymouth. That helped but the Plymouth still had problems especially with low speed starts and slow speeds. And then it quit; brushes burned out. Today, it sits outside the repair shop as a yard engine with a headlite on and the engineer leaning out of the cab. Lee
Owyhee River & Western RR, a division of the C&S - Nevada

ben_not_benny

Bachmann N scale turnouts have metal frogs, do they?


ben_not_benny

One more question: does the MDT have all wheel drive orr 4 wheel drive?

Franz T

Ben,
I just got one from MB Klein and it has 6 whell drive.

Franz T